Slicks BAD looking at new brand
03-06-2009, 10:02 AM
#24
If the given car is light enough a radial slick should work but given the average racer has a car that tips over 3600 pounds and that just doesnt work with out some major suspenion work but when you apply 500-800 rwhp, now its just a freakin mess.
The technology has come a long way, those companies know that a real racer who goes to the track changes tires after 10-75 passes and will be constantly buying vs the weekend racer doing tires ever 1-3 years depending on tread depth. It's simple economics.
The technology has come a long way, those companies know that a real racer who goes to the track changes tires after 10-75 passes and will be constantly buying vs the weekend racer doing tires ever 1-3 years depending on tread depth. It's simple economics.
03-06-2009, 10:34 AM
#25
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Um have you tried to test fit the wheels on the truck? From what im told, 15's will not fit on the back. Well that is if you have disc brakes, not sure on drum brakes. May want to just try and test fit it first...
03-07-2009, 11:55 PM
#26
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yea they fit perfect! i have the drums on the back is why i knew i could get away with it.. only thing is i had to basically rebuild them and make my backspacing to what i needed or they were going to stick out like 2 inches. heres some before and after pics of the wheels!!!
03-09-2009, 04:40 AM
#31
I have never used a tube in a slick. You can if you want, but once you put tubes in ou really have to screw the tire to the rim so that way the tire wont' shift on the rim and then pull the tube and valvestem out.
If you're not gonna screw the tires to the rim (which you probably can get away without doing at your power level) they shouldn't leak bad enough to need tubes.
I wouldn't try driving on them on the street, first nail or anything else will certainly blow the tire out.
If you're not gonna screw the tires to the rim (which you probably can get away without doing at your power level) they shouldn't leak bad enough to need tubes.
I wouldn't try driving on them on the street, first nail or anything else will certainly blow the tire out.
03-09-2009, 11:26 AM
#32
If the given car is light enough a radial slick should work but given the average racer has a car that tips over 3600 pounds and that just doesnt work with out some major suspenion work but when you apply 500-800 rwhp, now its just a freakin mess.
The technology has come a long way, those companies know that a real racer who goes to the track changes tires after 10-75 passes and will be constantly buying vs the weekend racer doing tires ever 1-3 years depending on tread depth. It's simple economics.
The technology has come a long way, those companies know that a real racer who goes to the track changes tires after 10-75 passes and will be constantly buying vs the weekend racer doing tires ever 1-3 years depending on tread depth. It's simple economics.
have you used a hosier 30" light weight radial slick? not a DR. BTW the lightweight is not for the car its for the tire meaning they use kevlar cordes vice steal.
03-09-2009, 05:29 PM
#33
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I have never used a tube in a slick. You can if you want, but once you put tubes in ou really have to screw the tire to the rim so that way the tire wont' shift on the rim and then pull the tube and valvestem out.
If you're not gonna screw the tires to the rim (which you probably can get away without doing at your power level) they shouldn't leak bad enough to need tubes.
I wouldn't try driving on them on the street, first nail or anything else will certainly blow the tire out.
If you're not gonna screw the tires to the rim (which you probably can get away without doing at your power level) they shouldn't leak bad enough to need tubes.
I wouldn't try driving on them on the street, first nail or anything else will certainly blow the tire out.
03-09-2009, 07:31 PM
#34
Did you read anything i typed? the radial works better on heavyer cars just like the s slick for heavy cars. and i had more than 800 hp on 1 kit. both kits made around 1050 rwhp. have you used a hosier 30" light weight radial slick? not a DR. BTW the lightweight is not for the car its for the tire meaning they use kevlar cordes vice steal.
have you used a hosier 30" light weight radial slick? not a DR. BTW the lightweight is not for the car its for the tire meaning they use kevlar cordes vice steal.I borrow a set of small *** 26" tall M/T from TheChef and I pull wheels. My car needs some suspension work since the body likes to slam on the rear.
Honestly with this 6 speed car, I wont waste the cash on a 30" tall Hoosier radial slick.
If this was a dedicated track car, it would have a Th350 or 400 and I would be on a 28" bias ply.
I did read your post, and that cool that it worked. I will give them a look when it comes time because I will be in the market but I didnt mind the tireshake up top.
!!! Hell atleast even pop the wheels up would be fine for me..lmao
03-15-2009, 12:32 PM
#40
You've probably got 1000 lbs more weight then I do and a TON more of it is in the fron 1/2 being a truck...
But, put a tranny in that thing with a brake on it, and spray a 150 shot off the brake release and you stand a chance to do the same ( that's how my sled is set up)
But, put a tranny in that thing with a brake on it, and spray a 150 shot off the brake release and you stand a chance to do the same ( that's how my sled is set up)