When should I switch to a glide?
A little about the car.
the car weighs 2730 with me in it and will be dropping one of the batteries out the back to get about 2660 or so race weight. The car is mostly fiberglass and lexxan windows , rear end is a 12 bolt with 4.11 gears but with 31x13x15 ET drag slicks. I am crossing right now at 6300 rpms at 122 mph so I am thinking of trying 4.30 gears i have laying around to see if it makes the converter any more efficient .
THE engine is 11.63/1 comp. heads are 5.3 heads locally ported with 2.0int 1.60 exh. valves, cam is a 239/243 at .050 with .612 lift 112 lsa 110 icl.
I have talked to a few converter company's and was told to go around 5400-5500 stall since its a race only setup. My thing is , I want to change converters and rebuild the transmission( refresh) while its out.
SHould I just go to a glide while doing this ? Whats the real advantage over the th350 if so?
I want the car to leave hard, right now with the converter in it I am only getting 1.54 60 fts . It should leave a lot harder, I was thinking the 1.3's .
Do the big tires kill my 60 ft since they are a lot bigger then I need? I have some 29x12's I could switch to if needed .
best so far with the car with mis matched parts is 10.80 @122.8 mph.
I am also taking the front facing scoop off and replacing with a 6" cowl up to the windshield before painting to help with wind drag.
You need a better converter, you shouldn't see that kind of slippage. Also with your tire height, that's not enough gear. If you have a set of 4.30's you can slap in it I'd do that immediately and see what that gets you, I wouldn't be surprised to see it need a 4.56 with that tire height. Hell I know guys with M6 setups that are running a 30 inch tire with 4.71 gears, that being said get the 4.30 in there, if that helps, buy a set of 4.56's and put them in. See what that gets you, then change the converter. I bet the gear change alone will probably increase the converter effeciency by 5% if not more.
A 5500 converter with about a 9% slippage would be perfect.
I'm not austin coil by any means... but try that path of changes and I think you'll see a really good gain.
Derek
you need wayyyyyyyy more gear or less tire.
and at that power level you want that big 1st gear ratio so i would not put in a glide
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I was also lean all through 1st gear last time out so I am going to try adding fuel below 6000 rpms with efi live.
1st gear was 13.6/1 and 2nd and 3rd gear were 13.0/1 . It needs to be a little fat below peak tq and lean above that so I am going to play with the tune some before making to many changes. After that the gears are going in. IF they do good, I am putting the 29" tires on to see how that does.
Thanks for the advice.
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Or go with the 315x60 with the 4.30 gear. I am thinking about using the Hoosier drag radial instead of the mickey T tires.
By going with the shorter tires I can lower the front more and set the whole ride height down a bit to help with wind drag. I should hook fine on a drag radial untill I really step up on power. Not looking at doing that for a while since I really just want to run low 10's.
I think it's in the combo that you're running. I would say go w/ smaller tire and a larger converter... somewhere in the 5000+ range.
Try the 4.30 gear, and if that works, I'd get a set of 4.56's and put them on there.
Old racer I know always told me run the biggest tire and the highest rato gearing that will fit in the car, and it will always leave harder and be more consistant.
I have a set of 29x12 Hoosier slicks that are going on to see how that does and then I will put the 4.30 gears in.
I found today that I have a bad tube in one of my slicks so since they have to come off , I am going to try the smaller tire first.
I leave in the morning for a week for work, when I come back I am going to make the changes to get it lower and the other tires on. Allign the front end back up and go race.
I will bring this thread back up after with the results.
We did this test during the course of a 2 day period at the track(what a pain in the *** but .4 was well worth it.
just another perspective
Thanks, guys
We did this test during the course of a 2 day period at the track(what a pain in the *** but .4 was well worth it.
just another perspective
How much of the gains were weight related do you think? That same test, but adding ballast over the tranny (so the weight was in the same place for accuracy sake) would be a really nice test, to see if the weight of the tranny's was impacting the results.
I wouldn't be surprised to see that be a substantial factor.
Every car is different though, and until you have tried it never rule anything out.
The 350 is more fun to drive but the glide was quicker and more consistant.
I know they take less power to turn over, and weigh a good bit less just trying to figure out the rest of it.
You guys are making me want to swap to a glide now. Thanks LOL.
A glide question: anyone see that TCI glide on the back of the national dragster? The one that has the electric pump to circulate the fluid when the car isn't running? Anyone know of someone that's tried that, or is using one? How is that working out? Seems like a good idea, but I'm not sure at what point that's needed....








