josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

I'm not entirely unhappy with the car really, it feels pretty strong compared to what it was stock, but it just won't turn a number at the track to save my life. I'll give a short breakdown of mods/ET/Dynojet dyno numbers and maybe someone could point me in the right direction to start looking for problems...

99 Trans Am, A4, 2.73 gears, est. weight ~3750 (I have alot sound deadening, about 60 lbs, and a little stereo stuff, around 20 lbs, plus me at 170 lbs).

Stock @ 35k miles: 282 rwhp, 304 rwtq and ran a best of 2.1X 60', 13.6X @ 104.X

Lid/Cutout @ 40k miles: Didn't get to dyno, but I did get alot better weather and ran a 2.06 60', 13.26 @ 105.14 and that's the fastest ET the cars ever been, and that's the only time it's turned a 13.2 ever. The rest of that day I pulled 13.3-13.4 all day long.

SCC Ram Air Intake/Cutout/Lowering Springs/Bilstein Shocks @ 70k miles: Didn't get to dyno, and track conditions were average at best, but I couldn't do better than a 2.08 60', 13.5X @ 106.X and I consistently trapped 106 ever since then.

Hooker catback, tranny blew, replaced with TCS Stage I Built 4L60E and added a TCS Phoenix Pro 3200/2.5 STR stall converter, and also added ROH Snyper 17x9 wheels and 275/40 tires and this last run at the track was with 102k on the odo: Did get to dyno, but couldn't lock the converter, and did 283 rwhp and 330 rwtq for what it's worth on an unlocked converter. Best ET with this setup was today in decent weather (69*, 30.68 BP, not sure on humidity because the track always says 100% regardless of actual humidity) and I cut a 1.91 60' on Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 275/40/17 tires and ran a best of 13.30 @ 100, and I trapped 100 MPH all day long (5 runs). I had two 13.5 slips, one 13.4, and two 13.3s (13.30, 13.38), all at 100 MPH and all at a 1.9X 60' save the last 13.5 run when I spun pretty bad.

Now, I know the car could benefit from some stickier tires, and I plan to get Nittos soon, but traction aside, the car is down 5-6 MPH after the converter, tranny, and wheel/tire install, and that just doesn't seem right IMO. It also doesn't seem right that I cut a 60' that was noticably lower (1.91 vs 2.06) and still ETed 0.4 tenths slower (13.30 vs 13.26). So if anyone has any suggestions on what may be wrong, or some effective mods that will give me a bit more oomph, give 'em to me. I'll end the post with possible mods I'm considering come spring to accompany the Nittos (can only afford one option)...

1) Hooker black painted LT headers and a Mufflex 3" y-pipe.
2) 2002 LS6 Z06 cam and all needed parts and a little tuning on the shift points and whatnot.
3) Go away from adding power and get some gears to replace the 2.73s, probably pick up the Thunder kit with Motive gears, TA Girdle, and all the other good stuff, and most likely run 3.42s (daily drive my car).

Thanks for any help on all this.

RyanJ

what were your 1/8 mile times? need somethin got compare to.

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

My 1/8 miles times all day yesterday were 8.6X @ 82 MPH. Previous best before converter and lowering was 8.64 @ 84.6 MPH for reference. After converter and lowering seems like the best I could do before those 8.6Xs yesterday were 8.7-8.9 @ 77-79 MPH.

F.A.T. PERFORMANCE 01

That converter is probably hitting those street tires alot harder than the stock converter was. I have a tcs 3500 and i can just about boil my street tires off. I am cutting high 1.7s with et streets in a full weight T/A and still need some more tunning. Get you a sticky tire and you will be very happy, i would get et streets i had nittos and i still smoked them pretty good. Hope this helps some.

Colonel

Getting sticky tires is not going to get his missing 6 MPH back. It sounds like there's a problem with the tranny or, more likely, the converter to me.

I'd get it on a dyno and check the power locked and then again unlocked.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

82 in the 1/8th is crap for your mods, I'd log some runs or just simply check your shift points.

I'd go for 6000-6100 for shift points.

Rob98Z28

How are you launching the car and at what RPM are you leaving at?

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

Best launch technique on street tires so far has been to hold the RPMs right at 1000 and when the tree comes down, just roll in to the gas and give it just enough to not sping the wheels. That usually means rolling into the first half of the pedal within about a seconds time to get the car to hook and then slamming it the rest of the way down after that. On that 1.91 60' I barely got chirp, and on the other 13.3 run with a 1.93 60' I got no spin at all. But if I try to give it any more, it'll blow the tires away. Very fine line.

My sentiments exactly Colonel. 6 MPH is gone and I can't figure it out. I also can't afford to ditch this tranny and converter. I could MAYBE work out something with TCS about the converter, but the tranny I need to hang on to. I mean I pulled a 1.91 60' on street tires, and even if I did drop down to a 1.76 60' lets say on some drag radals, that still wouldn't put me in the 12s most likely, and thats sad when I've already ran 13.26 @ 105 with nothing but an intake and exhaust. Hopefully the new suspension setup (HAL QA1 shocks, struts front springs, BMR rear springs) will help out some, but even then, I don't think I'll see 12s without adding more power Also noticed that I don't see TCS on the sponsors list anymore, so hopefully their still afloat and can maybe do something to help me out. I'll give them a call tomorrow and get back with the results.

Also, only local place to dyno is Total Engine Airflow and they said they have no way of locking the converter for me on the dyno. How could I manually lock it? Don't really want to add a switch to do it, and LS1 Edit isn't for me yet either.

Colonel

"I could MAYBE work out something with TCS about the converter"

Sorry, TCS is out of business.

You'll need to wire up a switch, use LS1Edit, or use a Tech II. I'd wire a switch if I didn't want to spend the $$$ on LS1Edit and couldn't find a shop with LS1Edit or a Tech II.

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

I believe TEA has a Tech II device, when I went and dynoed they had something they plugged into my diagnostics port and it read any codes the car was throwing, if I was getting any knock, pretty much everything really, but I got the feeling they dealt more with M6s and weren't that familiar with converter cars.

Thats what I feared by seeing that they weren't a sponsor here anymore This is bad. If it is the converter, there is nothing I can do about it now. Nobody wants to buy a converter out of a car that's lost 6 MPH after the converter and a new tranny swap. Hopefully the tranny they built for me will hold up. Guess I should have stuck with a more reputable company. If I can sell my converter to someone, any suggestions on another converter Colonel? I'd like to bump my stall up to around 3500 with a 2.5 STR over my 3200/2.5 now, and still maintain alot of drivability. Seriously considering a Vig3200 as I know PI is a good company and isn't going out of business anytime soon. I know you've got tons of 'verter experience, so any help is greatly appreciated.

Anyone give any explanations or know why TCS went under? Not really happy to hear this news

Any online articles on how to wire up a lockup switch?

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

Also, is there really any chance it's the tranny robbing me of that much power? Just thinking of it logically, I'd think the converter is probably horribly inefficient and thats where all my power has gone, and that getting a better verter is probably the answer to my problems.

Colonel

TCI makes a great 3500 stall I think you'de love (only about $550!) I run it in my '02. It ran 11.82@113 MPH (Internally stock engine, 3.23 gears, full weight car.)

If you want to spend some extra dime, Yank makes some truly AWESOME converters like the SS3600-4000 line of converters. I'll be installing an SS4000 in this '02 soon. The SS line has a 21 blade stator which makes for a more streetable converter for a given stall speed. That's why I'm going with the 4000.

But, before we throw the baby out with the bathwater, I'd still want to see a locked v/s unlocked comparison on the dyno. At this point we're just assuming that the converter is at fault. It might be fine (although I betting it isn't.)

The tranny could be the problem or part of the problem if the clutches were set up way too tight. I honestly don't know how much difference this could make since I've never had one setup like that.

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

Honestly Colonel, after reading about the big TCS happenings, I don't even want their product in my car. There is nothing I can do about the tranny, but I can sure as hell get rid of that converter for something else. I wouldn't mind a Yank SS 3800 but good God the price is ridiculous. Unless I could work out something with Yank and Mike about some type of exchange, there is no way. Kevin from TCI seems like an awesome guy who stands behind his product, and I'd love to run one of his converters in my car. Compared to my 3200/2.5 now, and wanting a little more on the track, but not loose too much streetability, would the 3500/2.5 or the 3800/2.6 suit me better do you think? Or if I really wanta 3800 stall, should I just go for the Yank? Thanks for all your time and help Stephen, much appreciated man. I just want my car back to trapping about 104-106 and turning some 12 second times.

Colonel

If you stay with the 2.73s go with the TCI 3500. Texas Speed and Performance has them for sale for $475.

If you go to 3.42 AND you think you'll have the traction to hook it, consider going with the 3800 ($516 at TSP.) It's a matter of streetability v/s performance here. The 3500 will still do a very fine job here but the 3800 will be just a little quicker. Remember, I pulled 1.61 60 fts with my 3.23 gears and a TCI 3500. 3.23s and this 3500 converter are the perfect blend of performance without compromising streetability, IMO.

Raben

iTrader: (5)

Me personally think the 2.73's are robbing you. I have almost the same setup as you and putting 13.0 flat. Below is my mods and my best time:

'99 Trans AM, fully loaded. A4
Stock dyno was 316rwhp/336rwtq (Back in April)
Best 1/4 stock time at track, 13.67@102.74mph.
Best 1/8 stock time at track, 8.88@82.27mph

Mods:
Free Ram Air Mod
Cut EGR from intake
Raised Airbox by 1/4" with washers
Throttle Bump stop mod
SLP Air Lid & K/N Filter
SLP 85mm MAF
Hooker cat-back Exhaust
3.73 Gears
TCI Superstreet fighter 3500 Stall
B & M Tranny cooler
B & R Lower Control Arms with Relocation brackets
ASP Underdrive Pulley
LS1 Edit & Dyno tuned by Delk Performance
(Getting a new dyno next weekend so will post those numbers then)
Running BF Goodrich KDW tires on rear.

New Times with current mod setup: (Beech Bend, Bowling Green KY)
R/T... .428
60'... 1.895
330... 5.413
1/8... 8.36
MPH... 83.33
1000... 10.92
1/4... 13.06
MPH... 105.39

I haven't had my shift points completely fixed as of yet, as it still hits the rev limiter in 2nd going to 3rd. Hits it 2 times then finally shifts. Bet I probably would hit a 12.9 maybe if I got that fixed.


*EDIT*
On a side note, could be the converter. I was 316rwhp stock, but when I installed the 3.73 gears and TCI 3500 Stall I dropped to 289rwhp, however was June by then compared to baseline dyno in April. Weather might have played a good role, however still, I lost ALOT of power regardless. I'm now pretty much back to where I begun so to speak heh.

josh99ta

iTrader: (1)

Raben, we live close to each other (or used to before I moved to Bowling Green) and run at the same track. I'm sure my gears are hurting me as well, but I still lost a good amount of MPH. I want to jump up to a bigger stall anyways, so TCI 3500 here I come. I'm selling all my stereo stuff because I've long been out of that phase, and am tired of having the stuff sitting around, and hopefully I'll be getting the TCI in very soon, and before racing season starts next year, some Nittos on the back along with some headers to top it off. Then it's time to save and watch, and hopefully pick up some used 3.23s or 3.42s for cheap with posi and all (since I need a 3 series carrier). Thanks for all the help Colonel and everyone else, hopefully before long I'll have some 12 second slips.

RyanJ

just as a comparison,

stock tires, all stock motor, NO boltons except a cutout and a few free mods (tb bypass, tb grind)

1.99
8.39
84

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

jesus, ive got 4.10s and a 3200 stall, im only pulling 1.9 60fters...................?

RyanJ

Whoa...old thread. You know what's funny...my car still hasnt gone any faster (or gone back to the track actually). Sad.

John_D.

iTrader: (2)

Josh's car got a lot faster...