Time for a roll bar what do i get??
Time for a roll bar what do i get?? I have gotten all my new stuff for for like strange 24 way shocks (all around) and a 2 step to help my 60foot new race Corbeau Seats but i didnt get my roll bar. And my big thing is do i get a bolt in so when i am on the street and driving the car i can remove some of it so its not in my way. Or just be a man about it and get a weld in. my best was a 11.45 @120mph with a 1.65 60 foot i hope with all the new thinks i have done to get into the 10's cam only so thats why i am putting the bar in. what Should i do ???? need help
Rob
Rob
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iTrader: (32)
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Southaven, MS (near Memphis, TN)
Getting a bolt-in rollbar and then removing it on the street would be a big PITA!!! If you want something street friendly get a swing-out door bar. Or just be a man and crawl over the bar. Give it a nice race car feel to i! 
Get a chromoly weld in.... Check with local speed shops in the area and see what they price is for a 6point rollbar.
I paid $800 installed for mine...
Get a chromoly weld in.... Check with local speed shops in the area and see what they price is for a 6point rollbar.
I paid $800 installed for mine...
11 Second Club
iTrader: (32)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,701
Likes: 2
From: Southaven, MS (near Memphis, TN)
For a bolt-in, mild steel rollbar.
Like I said, might be cheaper to check around locally on prices for a lighter chromoly cage installed.
texas speed has that cage for 575.00 before shipping, i dont know how much it would be after that
You get a bolt in, you will NEVER remove it for street duty. As said above, too much of a PITA. Sounds like a good idea, but one that you will never use.
That being said, I would still look at a couple things:
1)What are your plans for teh car, eventually? OK, now that you are done lying to yourself, what are your REAL plans for teh car? What I am saying is, if you want 10's, eventually you are gonna want 9's or even 8's, so plan ahead is what I am suggesting.
2)Read #1 again.
Does not matter how many times I build a car, I always end up having to go back and redo something because at teh time, I thought I was not going to do this or do that. I just try and cut down on those redo's as much as possible, even though that did not happen with this car.... plans were for a street only car, I even bought stock rear drum hardware for it.
Now?
It is only a bare shell, with a 25.5 cage going in geting ready for some serious drag radial action. I have a face plated T56 already, so I am going after the fastest T56 LSx record first, then dropping a glide in and have my eye's on teh 7's.
I am not saying that is your goal, but I am just trying to put a seed in your brain to plan ahead. A cage is a big thing, and one that you really do not want to do twice. So, you could buy/install a bolt in, and rip it out very easily when you plan to go faster. Or, you could do a weld in now, but if you go that route, make sure it is atleast a 8.50 cert. cage.
Morning rambling off.
That being said, I would still look at a couple things:
1)What are your plans for teh car, eventually? OK, now that you are done lying to yourself, what are your REAL plans for teh car? What I am saying is, if you want 10's, eventually you are gonna want 9's or even 8's, so plan ahead is what I am suggesting.
2)Read #1 again.
Does not matter how many times I build a car, I always end up having to go back and redo something because at teh time, I thought I was not going to do this or do that. I just try and cut down on those redo's as much as possible, even though that did not happen with this car.... plans were for a street only car, I even bought stock rear drum hardware for it.
Now?
It is only a bare shell, with a 25.5 cage going in geting ready for some serious drag radial action. I have a face plated T56 already, so I am going after the fastest T56 LSx record first, then dropping a glide in and have my eye's on teh 7's.
I am not saying that is your goal, but I am just trying to put a seed in your brain to plan ahead. A cage is a big thing, and one that you really do not want to do twice. So, you could buy/install a bolt in, and rip it out very easily when you plan to go faster. Or, you could do a weld in now, but if you go that route, make sure it is atleast a 8.50 cert. cage.
Morning rambling off.
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Get a five point,that way passenger has no hassle.I would also get the swing out for the driver side,would be alot easier than crawling over the bar. Ask me how i know.Or you could do like Chris does,Go to 41 with no roll bar and hope you never WRECK. I have the 6 point bolt(with one bar removed) from Wolf,and i see no reason why it would take more than maybe an hour and a half to pull 2 seats and 24 bolts to remove it.
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Verdad Gallardo Wow i like that. And you know what your right. by the way i read #1 like 100 time already.
You get a bolt in, you will NEVER remove it for street duty. As said above, too much of a PITA. Sounds like a good idea, but one that you will never use.
That being said, I would still look at a couple things:
1)What are your plans for teh car, eventually? OK, now that you are done lying to yourself, what are your REAL plans for teh car? What I am saying is, if you want 10's, eventually you are gonna want 9's or even 8's, so plan ahead is what I am suggesting.
2)Read #1 again.
Does not matter how many times I build a car, I always end up having to go back and redo something because at teh time, I thought I was not going to do this or do that. I just try and cut down on those redo's as much as possible, even though that did not happen with this car.... plans were for a street only car, I even bought stock rear drum hardware for it.
Now?
It is only a bare shell, with a 25.5 cage going in geting ready for some serious drag radial action. I have a face plated T56 already, so I am going after the fastest T56 LSx record first, then dropping a glide in and have my eye's on teh 7's.
I am not saying that is your goal, but I am just trying to put a seed in your brain to plan ahead. A cage is a big thing, and one that you really do not want to do twice. So, you could buy/install a bolt in, and rip it out very easily when you plan to go faster. Or, you could do a weld in now, but if you go that route, make sure it is atleast a 8.50 cert. cage.
Morning rambling off.
That being said, I would still look at a couple things:
1)What are your plans for teh car, eventually? OK, now that you are done lying to yourself, what are your REAL plans for teh car? What I am saying is, if you want 10's, eventually you are gonna want 9's or even 8's, so plan ahead is what I am suggesting.
2)Read #1 again.
Does not matter how many times I build a car, I always end up having to go back and redo something because at teh time, I thought I was not going to do this or do that. I just try and cut down on those redo's as much as possible, even though that did not happen with this car.... plans were for a street only car, I even bought stock rear drum hardware for it.
Now?
It is only a bare shell, with a 25.5 cage going in geting ready for some serious drag radial action. I have a face plated T56 already, so I am going after the fastest T56 LSx record first, then dropping a glide in and have my eye's on teh 7's.
I am not saying that is your goal, but I am just trying to put a seed in your brain to plan ahead. A cage is a big thing, and one that you really do not want to do twice. So, you could buy/install a bolt in, and rip it out very easily when you plan to go faster. Or, you could do a weld in now, but if you go that route, make sure it is atleast a 8.50 cert. cage.
Morning rambling off.
Yea but i like to go to more then one track so i have to plus i want to go faster at least a low 10.xx by adding heads or spray????????
plus i can never be as cool as chris on in my dreams LOL.
plus i can never be as cool as chris on in my dreams LOL.Get a five point,that way passenger has no hassle.I would also get the swing out for the driver side,would be alot easier than crawling over the bar. Ask me how i know.Or you could do like Chris does,Go to 41 with no roll bar and hope you never WRECK. I have the 6 point bolt(with one bar removed) from Wolf,and i see no reason why it would take more than maybe an hour and a half to pull 2 seats and 24 bolts to remove it.
Then i would get the CM one, its 15 lbs lighter than mild steel.But you will need to have it back bars to down tube TIG welded.Can not be welded any other way.If you go with a mild steel the bars can be welded with a mig.This is necessary to pass tech at any NHRA or IHRA tracks,just so you know.If i had to race anywhere but 41(my bars are bolted together) i would call up Burchart chassie in Decature Ill,and have them do the whole thing from scratch.Give them a call for a price.
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
I would say go CM. We can set you up wit one for 700.00 installed. If you want swingouts we can do that too.
We are not that far from you and our stuff installed will be cheaper that the install yourself option.
We are not that far from you and our stuff installed will be cheaper that the install yourself option.
Rob this is the route i would go they have a nice shop and do excellent work...
group discount???? LOL yeah right. 