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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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Default daily 9 sec car

opinions on best 9 sec daily driver set up all motor, blower, turbo, etc with reliability in mind
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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9 second and daily driver dont go together.
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 06:41 PM
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ill say weekend warrior
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 06:43 PM
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Thats better. I run a 383 stroked ls1 with a race trim vortech and alcohol injection and it runs low 10's all day and if she hooked 9's. I still have a/c and full leather interior and it is a convertable.
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 06:46 PM
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need injection to run low 10s? what kind of dyno numbers
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 06:47 PM
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I am putting down 783rwhp on pump gas and on a mustang dyno
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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those sound more like low 9 sec numbers to me sounds fishy
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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If i can hook maybe your right. There is no fishy about it it is fact. I aslo have my suspension set of for looks and not race.
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by AjSmoker
those sound more like low 9 sec numbers to me sounds fishy
raceweight may play a big role in his times, car is probably full weight. the easiest way to build a 9 second street car is weight reduction and suspension. the lighter the car the less power you'll need to run the number. you wont need to make a ton of horsepower to get there. if you can get your raceweight down to around 3000 lbs it will take less than 500 rwhp to go high 9's. plus being light weight will help your gas mileage and its easier on drivetrain parts. plus the first stages of weight reduction are free then when you start getting into light weight suspension parts and brakes and stuff like that it starts getting a little expensive.
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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what about hp over torque witch is needed more how bout rpms
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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I don't but can daily drive my t.a if I choose too. close to mid 10's n/a nearing the 130mph mark,m6,402ci car 517hp 468tq. The spray should net me 9.9's 10.0's when I hit it. I still have leather,heat,raido,full untouched interior power everything.
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 08:04 PM
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I'm goin wit a 383 nitrous motor seems to be the best way to go cuz Ill be able to turn 200 of the horsepower off
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 08:32 PM
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all my numbers are in my sig. my 9.91 pass was far from perfect and will be dropping very soon. and its my daily driver. full weight. all the accesories. dvd ent system w/ subwoofer. etc etc etc. its very doable.
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 09:28 PM
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Been a 9.84(nitrous) and 10.70(NA) with the white car on 93 octane and drag radials. Its been a DD for over 4 years with no issues. It still has cold AC,stereo,etc, gets close to 20mpg(hwy), stock interior(minus roll cage) and weighs 3900lb's. I know that the forced induction setups are more efficient and make more power but I have had ZERO issues with my big ci(408)/nitrous setup, very reliable and plenty of power when I need it. I recently made a few changes and hoping for some times in the 9.50 range next time out.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 12:01 AM
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it seems like a built nitrous motor is the easiest way. a turbo would probably be, to me, the best. I know a good turbo setup can be really expensive, but with a boost controller I'm pretty sure you can change the amount of boost you have while your sitting in the car. So you can have a 20psi race setup making like 1000hp but you can turn the boost down to like 5 or 10psi and still make like 500 or 600hp for the street. I know blowers make similar hp numbers but they don't have the ability to adjust the boost levels as easy.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 12:10 AM
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I think a built nitrous motor is the easiest/cheapest way to make a 9 second street car. I think a turbo setup is the best way. With a turbo you can have a badass 1000hp race car setup, then when your done turn down the boost on the boost controller and have a badass 550hp streetcar. I know that blowers make similar HP numbers but they don't have the same amount of flexibility. With a blower you would have to do a pulley change to change the amount of boost.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 04:35 AM
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Big cubes, as big as you can go, keep the weight to a minimum, 4l80 tranny, and spray it with about 150 hit.


my 402 @ 3350 goes 9.5x on a 150 shot, if the a/c, ps and heat were still in it the car would be abotu 3500, and it would still run a 9 second pass I'm sure.

You put an alum 434 together with good heads and about 11 to 1 compression, 4l80 so ya still have a streetable od tranny, spray it with 150 maybe 200 tops and it shoudl have no problems.

The safety stuff will add alot of weight, if you can get the car to 3500 with the cage and whatnot it won't be that bad.


Just have to have the $.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 08:56 AM
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and fwiw im running a t56 also. if the car is going to be an auto that is another huge bonus and gain in the et dept.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MelScrilla
it seems like a built nitrous motor is the easiest way. a turbo would probably be, to me, the best. I know a good turbo setup can be really expensive, but with a boost controller I'm pretty sure you can change the amount of boost you have while your sitting in the car. So you can have a 20psi race setup making like 1000hp but you can turn the boost down to like 5 or 10psi and still make like 500 or 600hp for the street. I know blowers make similar hp numbers but they don't have the ability to adjust the boost levels as easy.
This method would have my vote.
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 10:16 AM
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My vote would be for Turbo's

Mike R, has a street driven CARTEK 402 4L80E with a rear mounted turbo's that went high 8's on Drag radials. He drove that car from NJ to Florida and back, and on the day it went 8's he drive it over 60miles to the track on the same radials he ran the number on, the pumped up the pressures, and drove 60 miles home.

Yes Turbo's are more expencive, but there are no bottles to fill, and the power seems to be coming out of the ears. More than enough to run a 9 second pass... clearly... With a well designed setup, streetability is perfect as well.
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