Opinions: Powerglide vs 4L60E/Leaded Fuel vs Alcohol
05-14-2009, 07:58 AM
#21
She is trying to get the "Strength" but not having anymore Parasitic loss of power and hopefully be leaving with the same 60 foot, if not better.
05-14-2009, 08:55 AM
#22
while i dont have an A2 (TH400 here) for your purposes i think the Powerglide is perfect. so many braket racers love powerglides. also, i bet with the right converter, your 60' consistently gets better. if you have a hot or marginal track (note you live in TX) the glide is king.
as for Alky, i have no experience. i have friends that braket race alky cars and love it.
as for Alky, i have no experience. i have friends that braket race alky cars and love it.
05-14-2009, 10:15 AM
#23
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Considering it is a 1/8th mile car mainly and be it a stock cube LS1 which I do know what is done to it and there is not much left in it. So her loosing 1 tenth with more gear threw off the 1/8th enough for it not to be competitve.
She is trying to get the "Strength" but not having anymore Parasitic loss of power and hopefully be leaving with the same 60 foot, if not better.
She is trying to get the "Strength" but not having anymore Parasitic loss of power and hopefully be leaving with the same 60 foot, if not better.
Doesn't the OP state 10.50's in the 1/4mile and 6.60's in the 1/8mile? What does the 60' have to do with the desired ET?
What if you could have your cake and eat it too?
There is a lot of ET to be gained in converter/transmission choice.
A few years back a friend of mine with a TH-350 behind a pretty stout LS1 blew his transmission. I leant him one of my TH-350's with a low gear set and some light weight parts and he picked up a tenth in the 1/8th! That wasn't even my best TH-350.
There is a lot of ET to be gained in converter/transmission choice.
A few years back a friend of mine with a TH-350 behind a pretty stout LS1 blew his transmission. I leant him one of my TH-350's with a low gear set and some light weight parts and he picked up a tenth in the 1/8th! That wasn't even my best TH-350.
or try my Rossler metric 200.We've ran/run SuperStock, Stock and currently Comp, I understand the importance of gearing/ratios and convertor selection I'm just not seeing why someone wouldn't select a faster option even at the cost of the 60' especially with the smaller tire.
Last edited by tomcowle; 05-14-2009 at 10:21 AM.
05-14-2009, 10:18 AM
#24
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...k-results.html
I swapped my 4.56 gears for 5.18s thinking it would pick up and it killed my ET's and MPH and 60"! I'm re-installing the 4.56s this weekend. Take it from me and don't try too high of a gear. My goal is to run 6.60s and 10.50s in hot weather and it's almost there. I run an all-motor car with a 4L trans.
4/16/09
0.052, 1.44, 6.631, 101.17, 71*, 150 trans, 18/18 tires
0.043, 1.42, 6.624, 101.37, 180 trans, 17/18.5 tires
0.037, 1.43, 6.625, 100.91, 165 trans, 16.5/17 tires
0.108, 1.42, 6.617, 100.82, 165 trans, 17.5 tires
0.023, 1.46, 6.665, 101.08, 45% humid, 180 trans, 68*, 18/18 tires
0.003, 1.43, 6.620, 101.35, 170 trans
5/6/09
-0.007, 1.48, 6.77, 98.72, New Gears, 5.18s, 80*, 80-90% humidity
0.065, 1.50, 6.812, 98.37, 17.5/17 tires, 170 trans
0.078, 1.49, 6.808, 98.53, 17/17, 170
0.034, 1.48, 6.765, 98.77, 180 trans
0.059, 1.49, 6.789, 98.46, 14.5/14.5 tires
0.048, 1.46, 6.741, 98.85, 14/14, 180 trans, 90% humidity
*I went back out the next night since the humidity was so bad but it ran the same high numbers. The tuning also needs a little work but I lost 2/10ths from raising gears!
4/16/09
0.052, 1.44, 6.631, 101.17, 71*, 150 trans, 18/18 tires
0.043, 1.42, 6.624, 101.37, 180 trans, 17/18.5 tires
0.037, 1.43, 6.625, 100.91, 165 trans, 16.5/17 tires
0.108, 1.42, 6.617, 100.82, 165 trans, 17.5 tires
0.023, 1.46, 6.665, 101.08, 45% humid, 180 trans, 68*, 18/18 tires
0.003, 1.43, 6.620, 101.35, 170 trans
5/6/09
-0.007, 1.48, 6.77, 98.72, New Gears, 5.18s, 80*, 80-90% humidity
0.065, 1.50, 6.812, 98.37, 17.5/17 tires, 170 trans
0.078, 1.49, 6.808, 98.53, 17/17, 170
0.034, 1.48, 6.765, 98.77, 180 trans
0.059, 1.49, 6.789, 98.46, 14.5/14.5 tires
0.048, 1.46, 6.741, 98.85, 14/14, 180 trans, 90% humidity
*I went back out the next night since the humidity was so bad but it ran the same high numbers. The tuning also needs a little work but I lost 2/10ths from raising gears!
05-14-2009, 11:04 AM
#25
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I'd be willing to bet that your "example" didn't change convertor to better utilize that rear gear, that and the "example" has way too much overall first gear ratio, hence the 60's all over the place.
05-14-2009, 11:25 AM
#26
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The 4L trans could not hold up to the 5.13 gears - that's when the issues all started. Plus, that's too much gear for the set-up I have. It may have benefited with some 30" tires but I'd rather keep costs down and stay with 28's for now. With all my figures added up a PG conversion would cost me around $2800 right now. And, coming from some very reliable sources, I would be disappointed with the results.
05-14-2009, 11:38 AM
#27
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Derek
05-14-2009, 12:00 PM
#28
I would suggest that all increments are important.
I have zero Proflite experience, but I do have a Rossler 200. Probably the worst 200 that I have owned. It was pretty fast for about 15 passes!
Racing the classes that you have you should already know how expensive any "fast" transmission is.
Thats great, have him buy my proflite and he'll pick up more!! or try my Rossler metric 200.
or try my Rossler metric 200.
We've ran/run SuperStock, Stock and currently Comp, I understand the importance of gearing/ratios and convertor selection I'm just not seeing why someone wouldn't select a faster option even at the cost of the 60' especially with the smaller tire.
Racing the classes that you have you should already know how expensive any "fast" transmission is.
05-14-2009, 12:50 PM
#30
Keeping the car running the same range (ET wise) but keeping it reliable and w/o having an major investment was all the major sticking points.
Actually having more gears is better. The PG benefits from having less moving parts and being smaller and lighter, there is no doubt but there is not power adder behind this or bigger then stock cubes so there is no need to calm the launch down, she isnt going on the bumper and to be competitive she needs to be 1.40's and if she can 1.3x Ultimately more gears allow for the engine to stay with in it's power band and the rpm drop wont be as severe. Especially since the race is half the distance.
I am no expert but I have experience and I see a PG as going backwards, or basically more money to get a similar result of a Th350.
05-14-2009, 05:45 PM
#31
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Derek
05-14-2009, 11:59 PM
#33
I went to the track with my 4l60e, 3600 converter 3.73 gear 3250 race weight 403 rwhp and accidentally launched in second, went 11.22 @ 122 1.64 60', next pass was in first gear and went 10.93 @ 123.3 1.517 60'. But with a glide you lose less hp and its lighter, so if i had one i bet my times would be close to the 10.93 run, but maybe with a little more mph.
05-15-2009, 08:18 AM
#34
I went to the track with my 4l60e, 3600 converter 3.73 gear 3250 race weight 403 rwhp and accidentally launched in second, went 11.22 @ 122 1.64 60', next pass was in first gear and went 10.93 @ 123.3 1.517 60'. But with a glide you lose less hp and its lighter, so if i had one i bet my times would be close to the 10.93 run, but maybe with a little more mph.
05-17-2009, 03:38 PM
#37
Glide, and leave the 4.56 in to start, but I wouldn't be surprised to see the car like a 4.88 or like a 5.08 gear, somewhere in that area.
The alcohol deal, you're gonna be changing the oil a TON more, but for a bracket car that's raced at a competitive level if you can run it I would absolutely go alky.
fuel injection and alky is a pita, talk to kurt urban about it. You'll need probably 16 injectors even with a stock ci motor, ron's flying terlet, if you can run that and it's o.k. that's a very nice setup and works very well. A simple carb conversion, with a good alky carb, get a distributor front cover and go to a digital 7 box would be a great way too go as well. I considered that route myself before I found out one series I want to be able to run requires EFI. I haven't checked on the ron's flying terlet yet with them, but I'm sure they won't like it.
The alcohol deal, you're gonna be changing the oil a TON more, but for a bracket car that's raced at a competitive level if you can run it I would absolutely go alky.
fuel injection and alky is a pita, talk to kurt urban about it. You'll need probably 16 injectors even with a stock ci motor, ron's flying terlet, if you can run that and it's o.k. that's a very nice setup and works very well. A simple carb conversion, with a good alky carb, get a distributor front cover and go to a digital 7 box would be a great way too go as well. I considered that route myself before I found out one series I want to be able to run requires EFI. I haven't checked on the ron's flying terlet yet with them, but I'm sure they won't like it.
