Just like it says. I dont care if it rattles or whatever blah blah blah. I posted this in the newbie section and just got 'it rattles", or "its stupid if its not a race car". This car isnt a DD and sees a fair amount of track time. I should have posted this here to guys who actually use them to begin with. Just looking to hear if it causes any harm to the motor or car. I am just worried about the shock I guess, this is a stick car and I leave at 6k on slicks. Thanks

 

no more than any other motor mount could distort the cylinder walls. If you're that worried about it then motor plate and midplate your combo, that is the best approach.

 

Thank you sir. That the most intelligent response I have received so far. I didnt even know they could distort the cylinder walls. Is this common?

 

Not common until you're up in the power levels. I put a motor plate on my car for that reason though, and to make gobs more room for headers, like the 2 inch ones slide right in with zero drama now.

 

I would go motor plates over solid mounts.

 

^ Agreed, since you get that clearence and room.

 

I remember reading Harlan used to have solid mounts, until he ripped the threads out of the block.

 

Isn't there some classes that dont allow motor plates?

 

well, I just have a cam only car now. Heads may be a possibility, but this wouldn't really be considered "up in the power level" correct?

 

i have solid mounts. l like them. I have heard storys of pulling threads out of the block.

 

There is nothing wrong with solid mounts. You will feel the cam at idle more, but that is a benefit.

 

Should have known better than reading this thread. Guess ill ditch the solid mounts for a damn motor plate now

 

yeah they can but would it at normal power levels or anything below 500whp i doubt it..

 

yeahp. that's the problem.

 

I would venture to guess it is somewhere north of 1000rwhp before it is a issue.

 

You can see the cyl's distort well before 1000 hp if you are running solid motor mounts.


Honestly, if you aren't at the point that you want/need a motor plate yet, then I would stick with the ploy motor mounts and leave it alone.

 

just get the solid mounts. theyre lighter, smaller/ more compact, look rad , make the car shake at idle, and transfer more energy then polys could ever hope to. do you have a motor making 600 at the wheels with a 300 hit of nitrous? no. dont worry about extreame **** like distorting cyl walls, or mid plates. mid plates are cool for 8 second cars... your 11 second car doesnt need them.

 

anyone make a solid motor mount for an LS motor? I know they had them for the LT1.

 

Have you ever seen an alum motor apart that had solid motor mounts on it, making in the 700 rw range for 30 to 50 passes? You can see wear patterns in the cylinders that point directly to block distortion from the solid motor mounts.

I have seen this twice.

That being said.... I wouldn't put a solid motor mount on an alum block unless at least 1/2 the block is filled with cement. Or, if you are at the point that the poly mount is allowing too much movement, I would put an old school style tq strap on the motor before going to a stock style solid mount... or just bite the bullet and motor plate the car.

 

Glad I read this. Even though I will only be 600-650 to the tire on the bottle, its something to think of. So would a iron block motor not really have this problem? Also who all makes motor plates? They are all custom fit correct?