Questions on removing metal weight from interior
#1
Questions on removing metal weight from interior
I got the carpet stripped from the car getting and laid down some Frost King recently. I would like to remove some of the metal and have some questions:
Could I cut out sections of the braces that the seat bolt on to? Or would that weaken from the weight of sitting on them?
Would a reciprocating saw suffice?
Any other metal pieces I haven't thought of besides the arm support, seat belt bracket for rear and front seat braces?
Could I cut out sections of the braces that the seat bolt on to? Or would that weaken from the weight of sitting on them?
Would a reciprocating saw suffice?
Any other metal pieces I haven't thought of besides the arm support, seat belt bracket for rear and front seat braces?
#2
OWN3D BY MY PROF!
iTrader: (176)
Look at the 93 link in my sig. I have pictures of how I cut out all of the brackets. I used a small air grinder with a 3 inch cutoff wheel. You are either going to have to buy a spot weld remover or grind / pull them off like I did. It is a time consuming project.
#5
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (34)
I bought a spot weld cutter and make sure you buy extra cutters like koolrayz said above. It's hard to see some of the spot welds so if you get some sand paper and slightly go over some of the areas where they should be you will see the outline of the spot weld easier. Make sure you use a punch and make a nice dimple for the cutter to be centered on or it will just skip all over the place.
I removed the rear bottom seat brackets, the rear seat belt brackets over the rear fener wells, the brackets where the top rear seats latch to and another pair of small brackets that I think were for the seats as well. I weighted the brackets I got out and it was only 5lbs but 5lbs here 5lbs there starts to add up. I'm thinking about removing the brace that goes along the back seat are and connects to the side speaker panels but not sure how much stuctural strength that is adding.
I removed the rear bottom seat brackets, the rear seat belt brackets over the rear fener wells, the brackets where the top rear seats latch to and another pair of small brackets that I think were for the seats as well. I weighted the brackets I got out and it was only 5lbs but 5lbs here 5lbs there starts to add up. I'm thinking about removing the brace that goes along the back seat are and connects to the side speaker panels but not sure how much stuctural strength that is adding.
#6
8 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
I bought a spot weld cutter and make sure you buy extra cutters like koolrayz said above. It's hard to see some of the spot welds so if you get some sand paper and slightly go over some of the areas where they should be you will see the outline of the spot weld easier. Make sure you use a punch and make a nice dimple for the cutter to be centered on or it will just skip all over the place.
I removed the rear bottom seat brackets, the rear seat belt brackets over the rear fener wells, the brackets where the top rear seats latch to and another pair of small brackets that I think were for the seats as well. I weighted the brackets I got out and it was only 5lbs but 5lbs here 5lbs there starts to add up. I'm thinking about removing the brace that goes along the back seat are and connects to the side speaker panels but not sure how much stuctural strength that is adding.
I removed the rear bottom seat brackets, the rear seat belt brackets over the rear fener wells, the brackets where the top rear seats latch to and another pair of small brackets that I think were for the seats as well. I weighted the brackets I got out and it was only 5lbs but 5lbs here 5lbs there starts to add up. I'm thinking about removing the brace that goes along the back seat are and connects to the side speaker panels but not sure how much stuctural strength that is adding.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (28)
I used the harbor freight spot weld cutter, its $5 and has 2 ends to use. Free exchange 1st night I did maybe 10-15 holes, breaking teeth on both ends. Exchanged it for a new one and did all the seat, seatbelt, and arm rest brakets with onlt one end the next night. use it with a small 1/16 drill, just drill in a little so the point can't wounder. thats what damged mine.
I have some pics and info, on doing this work. even a spot weld how to vid.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...itch-diet.html
I have some pics and info, on doing this work. even a spot weld how to vid.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...itch-diet.html
#9
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 826
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I asked about removing spot welds in the "Tools & fabrication" forum and someone told me how to make a spot weld cutter out of an old drill bit. I worked great and didn't cost me anything. I used a punch and small drill bit to drill a pilot hole so that it would stay centered.
I still have some small holes to fill in.
I still have some small holes to fill in.
#10
OWN3D BY MY PROF!
iTrader: (176)
I didn't drill the spot welds because I was trying to avoid having to fill the holes left over. I used the air grinder with a set of pliers and cut parallel to the spot weld. Then, I used a set of pliers to pull it off. I did mow through about 20+ cutting wheels going over the whole car and it probably took me a good three days. I would say that I got a good 15+ lbs out of the car though.