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Suspension Unloading At Launch..? (Vids)

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Old 09-17-2009, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bballr4567
Cutting the springs isnt helping at all. It completely ruins the way the spring reacts to situations like these. Ive seen some people run the V6 spring in the rear and the stockers in the front.

Either way, get actual lowering springs as they are made to preform at that designed height, stick the stock ones back on or live with the bad 60's.
Can you elaborate a little more on this? How does it "ruin" the way it reacts? It's a shorter spring with slightly more compressive tension than stock? I can understand the suspension geometry needing to be fixed (working on that), but I wouldn't think the springs are the root cause of the bad 60's. There are cars that are just as low, with stiffer springs than me and are 60 footing in the 1.5's.

Mike
Old 09-17-2009, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey 97Z M6
Yes and thanks man. I've read that thread about 10 times now. I think his statement about changing the IC and only making a couple hundredths difference, was probably referring to a full-on drag car that wasn't lowered and probably already cutting 1.3 60' times. LOL.... His definition of not getting traction doesn't match MY definition of not getting traction if you know what I mean. Madman is on a whole other league than me.

Wow, that low on tire pressure. That means I have lot's of room to work with then since I'm not running tubes either. I just didn't know how low I could get away with before it becomes a dangerous situation. Good info man, I appreciate it.

Mike
Yeah... and in a low power car a lot of that stuff doesn't even come into play much (not nocking your car... just saying its low power in comparison).

Obviously lowering is really hurting you, but you already know that.

For a "no dollars" test, i would go back out with the car with the front swaybar off, and the tires at 10lbs. Much lower than that and the car really does walk a lot on the big end, so i would definitely take it in small steps.
Old 09-17-2009, 01:09 PM
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****... just noticed you already had the swaybar off.

Just trying lowing the tire pressure and making the adjustments you had in mind on the instant center (never know... it may help more than im thinkin it will... my car wasn't lowered so i never messed with it that much)
Old 09-17-2009, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by z28mccrory
****... just noticed you already had the swaybar off.

Just trying lowing the tire pressure and making the adjustments you had in mind on the instant center (never know... it may help more than im thinkin it will... my car wasn't lowered so i never messed with it that much)
I hope the IC helps alot lol... I think I have a pretty good game plan for tomorrow. Going to remove the air from the airbag first, start at 14psi on the tires, then work down on air pressure until I either get to 10psi or start losing 60' time. Then I'm going try the airbag again and see if that does anything at all. I guess it's all about taking the time to make sure the little steps are being taken one at a time. I have a newfound appreciation for suspension tuning at the track lol... Thanks again for the suggestions.

Mike
Old 09-17-2009, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey 97Z M6
Can you elaborate a little more on this? How does it "ruin" the way it reacts? It's a shorter spring with slightly more compressive tension than stock? I can understand the suspension geometry needing to be fixed (working on that), but I wouldn't think the springs are the root cause of the bad 60's. There are cars that are just as low, with stiffer springs than me and are 60 footing in the 1.5's.

Mike
When you cut the spring you ruin the properties of it. Its made to work with ALL the coils. When you cut some off, it makes the spring stiffer because it has less to work with but the spring was made to softer than you just made it. Thats why cars that are lower than you with stiffer springs run better because their springs are designed to run like that.

Just a suggestion.
Old 09-17-2009, 09:21 PM
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i like my qa1 12 ways on all 4 corners with 275 drag springs up front and stock ls1 springs out back you can fine tune it pretty easy theyve worked well with small tires and big tires...
Old 09-17-2009, 09:21 PM
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the front is your problem.
look at my vids from last week. blew the tires off then i went down two clicks on the front shocks.
I used to have revalved bilstiens on my car before. the only way i could make it hook was to run the rear very soft and like 11-12 psi
lowering the front of the arm will lift more weight and hit the tires softer. whats your rear LCA angle?
double adjustables on the rear is the best shock. even more than the front.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drZHGYjuif0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5zM_TpNrk8
Old 09-17-2009, 09:43 PM
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Competition Engineering 3way rear drag shocks
BMR LCA
BMR Adjustable torque arm
BMR panhard bar
BMR trans crossmember
BMR safety loop
BMR lowering springs
Energy Suspension mounts
UMI subframe connectors
GM 3.73 gear
PTC 4000 converter 2.4 STR


That is my suspension setup.. Race weight is 3550.. I cut consistent 1.52-1.54 short times on motor with 26" MT streets on a stock 8" camaro rim, dead hook... I want to lift the front wheels on the launch.. Is there anyway I could set the suspension up differently to make it lift the tires?

I am a suspension noob but have some buddies that know a little bit about it, no gurus though.. I know it will lift them on spray but I want to do it on motor first. I would be happy with both of them 8-12"..

Thanks for any advice..
Old 09-17-2009, 09:49 PM
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bmr full length relocated to the crossmember?
Old 09-17-2009, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BADAIR
bmr full length relocated to the crossmember?
Pretty sure but wont swear by it.. would have to check it out tomorrow.. only owned the car for a month or little longer.. been under it once to change the oil..

those sixty times are good enough to get air arent they?
Old 09-17-2009, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by lemons12
Pretty sure but wont swear by it.. would have to check it out tomorrow.. only owned the car for a month or little longer.. been under it once to change the oil..

those sixty times are good enough to get air arent they?
my buddy's car yanks the left tire going like 1.8's
Old 09-18-2009, 01:02 AM
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http://bowtie0069.fotki.com/la-invas...9/img5374.html


here is a pic of my car with stock springs
m6 with 3.42 gears at 4500 rpm pulling 1.6s 60foot stock shocks and struts
its a 275/50/15MT DR with 17psi
stop being hard head and put some stock springs in. the higher a car sits the more LBS that gets transfered to the rear tires on take off

just do it !! LOL
Old 09-18-2009, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 1BADAIR
my buddy's car yanks the left tire going like 1.8's
What the hell.. Why won't mine do it?

I am lowered on BMR springs.. But still with a 1.52 sixty I figured it would bring it up..
Old 09-18-2009, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by lemons12
What the hell.. Why won't mine do it?

I am lowered on BMR springs.. But still with a 1.52 sixty I figured it would bring it up..
lifting tires is a waste of power by the looks of things your doing very good pulling 1.5s and keeping the front down

my car does 7.22 @ 105 in the 1/8th on 17in rim and 1.8 60 foots how funny is that LOL
Old 09-18-2009, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by tomz28
lifting tires is a waste of power by the looks of things your doing very good pulling 1.5s and keeping the front down

my car does 7.22 @ 105 in the 1/8th on 17in rim and 1.8 60 foots how funny is that LOL
I understand that... I don't mind if it hurts a SMALL amount.. I will be happy if I'm still cutting 1.5s lifting the tires.. 1.6s are not acceptable though.

7.2@105.....

I would just like to bring them up just to do it.. No other reason.. Some might thinks its lame (dont think that could be considered rice material).. But would just like to do it on motor.
Old 09-18-2009, 02:00 AM
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Add HP.
Old 09-18-2009, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 99bowtieZ
Add HP.
I make enough horse power, there are people that dont even have H/C that lift the wheels, its not all about power... I cut 1.52 sixty foots on motor as I stated.. That is PLENTY to lift the tires.. I just need to adjust my suspension to get it to lift them.
Old 09-18-2009, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 02TransAm/Batmobile
I think the springs are jus' as important as the shocks. From what I understand, you want to run a longer/softer spring. Being lowered 1.75" doesn't help transfer weight accordingly. If launching on a set of soft springs, the rear squats easier while at the same time the soft springs up front are lifting up the front end. If you still have your stock springs, jus' swap in the rears and see if you feel any improvement or bid on a set of V6 springs for the rear.
this is pretty wrong...you don't want the rear to squat at all.

Originally Posted by Mikey 97Z M6
I watched and rewound that launch of the car you posted about 15 times and I didn't see the rearend squat at all.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that you DON'T want the rear to squat. Weight transfer, yes, but not at the expense of having the rearend squat down. When the suspension squats in the rear, it's actually the axle pushing up away from the ground and unloading the tires. I thought the ideal situation is to have the tires being driven into the ground, actually raising the rear of the car, as long as the tire can hold it.

Mike
Correct. your problem is no weight transfer at all, and your shock setup is killing you. the cut rear springs are fine...friend of mine has gone best of 1.32's on cut rear springs. qa1's front/rear. madman torque arm, LCA's, PHB.

spohn anti roll bar. car setup was a stock bottom end ls1 w/ a 224/224, ported 243's and a 200 plate.

Chad

Last edited by Nimitz87; 09-18-2009 at 05:14 AM.
Old 09-18-2009, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Nimitz87
this is pretty wrong...you don't want the rear to squat at all.



Correct. your problem is no weight transfer at all, and your shock setup is killing you. the cut rear springs are fine...friend of mine has gone best of 1.32's on cut rear springs. qa1's front/rear. madman torque arm, LCA's, PHB.

spohn anti roll bar. car setup was a stock bottom end ls1 w/ a 224/224, ported 243's and a 200 plate.

Chad
Thank you Chad! My next major purchase for the car is going to be some drag shocks for the front, even though I REALLY want a 2-step lol....

Mike
Old 09-18-2009, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BADAIR
the front is your problem.
look at my vids from last week. blew the tires off then i went down two clicks on the front shocks.
I used to have revalved bilstiens on my car before. the only way i could make it hook was to run the rear very soft and like 11-12 psi
lowering the front of the arm will lift more weight and hit the tires softer. whats your rear LCA angle?
double adjustables on the rear is the best shock. even more than the front
WOW,,,, that is a dramatic difference for just a shock setting adjustment in the front. Dammmmnnnnn. I'm excited about this, but bummed at the same time. Excited to see what a dramatic difference a front shock can make, but bummed out because I won't be able to afford those until next season. There goes my chances for getting a 10sec timeslip this year.

I need to re-measure the LCA angle. It used to be 2 degrees but I haven't measured it since making the changes to the t/a. Pinion angle is now at -.5 using the driveshaft method.

Mike


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