WS6TransAm01

iTrader: (13)

They would however kill my gearing at the line and slow down my 60' which is why I would have to go to a 4.88 gear...

Can I bolt up your 30's and see what happens? lol

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

My 30's are 10.5's, you'll need to do some work on the wells first.
Of course you're welcome to them Alex.
You leave at 7k, the 30's aren't going to kill anything!

getusum

iTrader: (42)

I know when i went to see Mad Man last year, he told me to stay with the drag.....i have a m6 and run 28 10.5 s....I cut 1.4's ....3800lbs

WS6TransAm01

iTrader: (13)

He had told me the same thing about 2 years ago.

ndfrsd6

iTrader: (5)

Alex i would stay with the stiff wall slick ! ive tried the m/t dr 28in and the best i got was low 1.5's but things started to break no give at 5000-6500 lol
now your already in the low 1.4's so you would be taking a step back and a lot more frustrating getting it sorted out

MelScrilla

iTrader: (2)

its all about the suspension setup, like many guys have said the DR's will work but it takes time to get the setup right. RPM just did a 1.18 and smith did a 1.19 on 275's so a 325 should be a little easier.

blk00ss

iTrader: (66)

You people aren't reading his entire question obviously. He is a SIX SPEED! it's a whole lot easier for a automatic to hook on radials, even on a trans brake for some reason.

jmill96Z

iTrader: (3)

Well if it's so obvious that a 6 speed can't get down on radials, isn't this whole thread useless? Shouldn't the OP already know that an M6 is useless at the track?

Or maybe you just don't know how to tune a suspension.

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

Any fast 6 speeds on dr's? I can't think of one.

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

maybe we could keep this constructive?

People aren't born knowing how to tune a suspension. How would you go about getting Alex's 6 speed car down the track on dr's? I'm interested and I'm sure Alex would be as well.

jmill96Z

iTrader: (3)

LOL It's just that everyone in this thread is like "Woe is me...I drive a 6 speed"

It probably came across a little more harsh than intended.

jmill96Z

iTrader: (3)

I'd have to see video, etc. This isn't going to be a one time at the track deal. Setup a spreadsheet and track the changes vs. 6 speeds. What other suspension does he have?

getusum

iTrader: (42)

Here is my set up.....01 ss 3786lbs with me in it..No weight reduction..All BMR except upper and lowers in front....Afco da on all corners...m6,viper converted...9'' 4.56's..LME 408 built in 06' 30k on motor..driven 250 miles a week...cuts 1.5 60' all day at local track...Car put down 531rwhp and 517rwtq before 9''.....Here is a video...Note, car has not been fully dialed in on the new suspension..Took it to Mad Man last year, and he worked his magick..Track prep was horrible and I kept blowing off the tires..1.62 was the best I could get....In this Vid, I cut a 1.43 and ran 8.77 in the 1000' (that's all we have) Launched at 5500 and no 2 step...I have alot left in the car..

Mine is the black ss in the left lane...Notice I miss 4th....


http://s189.photobucket.com/albums/z...009_220158.flv

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

Ok what tires are you running though, isn't that the whole point of this thread? That is your setup on a radial tire?

getusum

iTrader: (42)

I'm running 28 10.5 s et drags....I state that 5 posts earlier....The guy thinks he made a mistake going to a dr.....I'm showing him my set up...I stated that I was told by one of the best in the business, to stay away from dr when it comes to m6 cars....Doesn't mean it can't be done,,,it just means he'll have to put in alot, and I mean alot of track time and research and changing and tweaking his suspension to get a dr to work...I've been working on mine for 2 yrs, and I still find things to tweak and improve each time out...

Most a4's can run almost the same settings as other a4 cars in their class if the cars are the same...I said ''most'' not all....

M6 cars are just violent on dr and need more supporting suspension work than a4 cars...

WS6TransAm01

iTrader: (13)

I have not made the mistake yet. I was considering it for the convenience. Brian himself suggested I use the stiff sidewall ET Drag but with all these guys running killer 60's with DR's I was thinking about it again.

I have always believed that the slick is better for a stick, I just wanted to see if other's agree, if not, I would try out a DR. I just did not want to buy $450 worth of tire w/o finding out if anyone had some luck with them on a stick car.

my car has every aftermarket suspention component except springs. B<R K-member and lower A-Arms, BMR SFC, 6 point roll bar to make the car stiffer, stealth torque arm, Sphon drag bar, QA1's on all 4 corners with stock springs, Madman PHB, BMR LCA's and so on...

Also like I said, i have been cutting 1.41-1.43 60's with my ET Drags, now I have the LPE launch control a few more ponies lol and a bit more RPM lol I would like to see a 1.39 60', looks like I am most likely staying with the ET Drags.

Gary Z

I agree bias-ply tires work better than radials for a manual transmission. I just want to observe that your best 60 was probably because your clutch was slipping. My two best 60s came just before clutch death. I'm on my fourth clutch. A new clutch may ruin your sixty, at least temporarily.

WS6TransAm01

iTrader: (13)

The clutch was definitely not on its way out because it ran the same 60's 20, and 30 passes later. And it ran the same 60's after the first 4-5 passes it took to brake in. That clutch was in the car for close to 2 years. Running about 100 passes, all with mid to low 1.4 60's I slip the clutch on my own just a little on the launch, I do not side step it and let it come in on its own.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

Alex, its alot of fun driving to the track on DRs and racing, So why not do both. I thinks it a givin your not going to cut your 1.4s on them, but still run some good times.
But for your car to run both your canrun the taller DR, and keep the "go fast" setup 4.56s gears/28s ETdrags. I notice on my 28.00 DR I'd have to guess Im 2-300 rpms highter they the traps then my 28s etdrags, But I have room with the 4:30s not ideal for me traping 125ish
Whats out there for 29-29.5 tall DRs
What are you going to run with front tires with the DRs, becuse another thing in my DR setup is 4 stock chrome 16x8 rims, and a small 275 DR on the back, with stock sized 245 AVS1000 yocohams on the front. There 25.7 tall and weight alot (bare rims is 21#s). So thouse wheels add like 70-80lbs to my car over my gregweld/prostars. I think my 1.600 and low 1.6s is good for having stock wheels, if your gona get some light 15x10s and a light front tire setup I thing you could get it into the 1.5s consitatly with the 2step. maybe a low 1.5 once or somthing.
Best I've gone is some 11.2xs on DR 2 weeks ago.

WS6TransAm01

iTrader: (13)

Well, I was going to put the DR's on my 15" welds instead of my ET Drags... it would have been my "Go Fast" setup lol

Right now I have 27.xx M&H's on my stock WS6 wheels and that is my everyday setup. I have had them about 2-3 years so they are on their way out. I do have 2 TA chrome 16x8's that I could use for a ~28" DR setup, but once again that would leave me with bald *** M&Hs for daily use.

So right now, I think the best thing to do is buy a new set of 28" Drags because the ones I have are now nearly 2 years old and most likely shot to ****. And possibly get a set of ~28" M/T for my 17" WS6 wheels as a daily tire that I can also use for fun at the track.