M6 TrueTrac roll call *Update spool>truecrap
#63
I'm not sure the tire wear yet?[But ya its not going to to help running the spool. The roads are cold now even daytime, so rolling hit in 1st skates. I can't wot shift gears too it spins for the gear then. So next light I can hear all the rocks coming off the tires all warmed up So that not normal for tire wear on my DRs I run, had them all year and getting almost to the wear bars off the solid center, but still half tread on the outside. So running them little low for the fall time now, 20psi cold 23/24 warm. I haven't driving the car in the rain yet with the spool how that is, the new DR it was fine in heavy rain, The M&H have many tread channels to them and ther not very shallow new like nittos come. But in a heavy down pour once with them warn they would brake loose going up a on ramp 1-3 times, but there was water pouring down it so that was extreme rain for like 2-4 mins.
You can't really say how long they will last on my setup. I remembered SShawn@newera and Matt@newEra ran 18x10 or whatever the big baller ZO6 wheels are with no sidewall. With the 295/315 GFG Drs with a clutch posi and they would wear them out in half a year. And they were like 500-600 for them, thats nuts to spend twice a year. I'm fine buying new Drs every year seeing I race on them every other week. The taller 28 Drs on my stock 16x8 helps a lot for them getting worn out mega fast. I wouldn't run a spool with a low profile tire, for sure
You can't really say how long they will last on my setup. I remembered SShawn@newera and Matt@newEra ran 18x10 or whatever the big baller ZO6 wheels are with no sidewall. With the 295/315 GFG Drs with a clutch posi and they would wear them out in half a year. And they were like 500-600 for them, thats nuts to spend twice a year. I'm fine buying new Drs every year seeing I race on them every other week. The taller 28 Drs on my stock 16x8 helps a lot for them getting worn out mega fast. I wouldn't run a spool with a low profile tire, for sure
Last edited by studderin; 11-14-2009 at 07:09 PM.
#64
and my true trac looks fine. Its still worked great, just at the track after is few passes would wheelie to the right? but I drove the car home and around for the week and nothing was different on the street. If I wasn't racing so much I would put the TT back in my car. But M6 guys they will be hitting the diff hard like I do it might not be the best.
But it was what I'd say, was a huge improvement at the track from the spool, so its up to you.
In fact I still have the bearing pressed on the TT, its not that hard to switch the ring gear back and put it back in. Would take a few hours, if you want to. The s60 has no shims on the diff side that are a pain, the threaded collars are really nice setup. if. If your hardcore about going fast just run a spool for the end of the year good air. Or if you race 2-3 times a year.
But it was what I'd say, was a huge improvement at the track from the spool, so its up to you.
In fact I still have the bearing pressed on the TT, its not that hard to switch the ring gear back and put it back in. Would take a few hours, if you want to. The s60 has no shims on the diff side that are a pain, the threaded collars are really nice setup. if. If your hardcore about going fast just run a spool for the end of the year good air. Or if you race 2-3 times a year.
Last edited by studderin; 11-14-2009 at 07:25 PM.
#65
Sorry to bring back an old thread, but a question previously asked in this thread didn't get a direct answer.
Are most of the truetrac issues from the 9" 31 spline versions?
Are the s60 35 spline truetracs reliable and can hold abuse well?
I'm planning on getting a rear end in a couple of months so I'm currently doing research. I would like a reliable rear end, but would also like to avoid getting a locker or a spool if possible.
Are most of the truetrac issues from the 9" 31 spline versions?
Are the s60 35 spline truetracs reliable and can hold abuse well?
I'm planning on getting a rear end in a couple of months so I'm currently doing research. I would like a reliable rear end, but would also like to avoid getting a locker or a spool if possible.
#66
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Just get an eaton diff and call it a day, at least if that goes, you can rebuild it cheap enough. At this point, unless you need a spool, that would be the only other option I have seen that's viable. Locker in these cars sucks, big truck with big tires they're fine, these cars, no friggin way, car feels like it's broken ALL the time with one of those in there.
The tru-crap, they puke faster then a stock 10 bolt. You put a good rear in with that diff, you mine as well leave a stock rear in the car.
Eaton, they take alot of abuse and hold up decent, and when they go, you can take it apart and rebuild it. That's a bonus over a tru-crap, those you can't do **** with.
spool, ultimate strength, a little annoying on the street, wear tires ALOT faster, but they don't break, and if that's what you're going for, spool it.
The tru-crap, they puke faster then a stock 10 bolt. You put a good rear in with that diff, you mine as well leave a stock rear in the car.
Eaton, they take alot of abuse and hold up decent, and when they go, you can take it apart and rebuild it. That's a bonus over a tru-crap, those you can't do **** with.
spool, ultimate strength, a little annoying on the street, wear tires ALOT faster, but they don't break, and if that's what you're going for, spool it.
#67
TECH Regular
My Moser 9" Trutrac w/31 spline axles has about 6000 miles and holding great. I don't go to the track but do run M/T E.T. street radials on the street and launch hard every now and then. No problems yet.
#68
Just get an eaton diff and call it a day, at least if that goes, you can rebuild it cheap enough. At this point, unless you need a spool, that would be the only other option I have seen that's viable. Locker in these cars sucks, big truck with big tires they're fine, these cars, no friggin way, car feels like it's broken ALL the time with one of those in there.
The tru-crap, they puke faster then a stock 10 bolt. You put a good rear in with that diff, you mine as well leave a stock rear in the car.
Eaton, they take alot of abuse and hold up decent, and when they go, you can take it apart and rebuild it. That's a bonus over a tru-crap, those you can't do **** with.
spool, ultimate strength, a little annoying on the street, wear tires ALOT faster, but they don't break, and if that's what you're going for, spool it.
The tru-crap, they puke faster then a stock 10 bolt. You put a good rear in with that diff, you mine as well leave a stock rear in the car.
Eaton, they take alot of abuse and hold up decent, and when they go, you can take it apart and rebuild it. That's a bonus over a tru-crap, those you can't do **** with.
spool, ultimate strength, a little annoying on the street, wear tires ALOT faster, but they don't break, and if that's what you're going for, spool it.
I'm not too sure, but aren't the only options for an S60 a truetrac, spool, or locker?
#69
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My Detroit Locker 9" is incredible, I don't know why some of you guys are trashing them. Strength is almost that of a spool without some of the spools negatives. Occasionally you get a click on lockup but no big deal. I've had mine for 6 or 7 years no issues, with 5,000+ rpm launches.
#70
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Locker won't give you any problems, but believe me, I've been in a car that had one quite a bit, and as soon as you put rod ended supsension and a solid mounted type tq arm, it sucks to drive around with. Track car it would probably be fine.
fst ss... only reason that thing's still together is because you're staying away from the track.
Dead hook that thing a 1/2 dozen times, or get into a try tire wheel hop during a burnout once and lemme know what kind of shape it's in.
fst ss... only reason that thing's still together is because you're staying away from the track.
Dead hook that thing a 1/2 dozen times, or get into a try tire wheel hop during a burnout once and lemme know what kind of shape it's in.
#71
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Isn't the truetrac made by eaton? Mine came with both detroit and eaton stickers... hmmm?
Anyway, the truetrac in a 35 spline is a beast. I'm not aware of any problems with them. Talk to Eric at midwest chassis. He's a firm believer that the 35 spline version is stronger than most bracket cars can use. The 31 spline and smaller versions are where you run into problems.
I have seen one or two instances where an S60 had a problem, but it wasn't a power threshold issue, more like a manufacturing defect issue.
S60 with a truetrac is strong. Period. 9" or 12 bolt with a truetrac... not so much.
Anyway, the truetrac in a 35 spline is a beast. I'm not aware of any problems with them. Talk to Eric at midwest chassis. He's a firm believer that the 35 spline version is stronger than most bracket cars can use. The 31 spline and smaller versions are where you run into problems.
I have seen one or two instances where an S60 had a problem, but it wasn't a power threshold issue, more like a manufacturing defect issue.
S60 with a truetrac is strong. Period. 9" or 12 bolt with a truetrac... not so much.
#72
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made 4 pass's on my 31 spline true track of a 5500 2step dump in a 4klb car making 500 wheel.... ordering a spool just dont know if i want a light weight one or not what do yall think .... normal spool or light weight
#73
Isn't the truetrac made by eaton? Mine came with both detroit and eaton stickers... hmmm?
Anyway, the truetrac in a 35 spline is a beast. I'm not aware of any problems with them. Talk to Eric at midwest chassis. He's a firm believer that the 35 spline version is stronger than most bracket cars can use. The 31 spline and smaller versions are where you run into problems.
I have seen one or two instances where an S60 had a problem, but it wasn't a power threshold issue, more like a manufacturing defect issue.
S60 with a truetrac is strong. Period. 9" or 12 bolt with a truetrac... not so much.
Anyway, the truetrac in a 35 spline is a beast. I'm not aware of any problems with them. Talk to Eric at midwest chassis. He's a firm believer that the 35 spline version is stronger than most bracket cars can use. The 31 spline and smaller versions are where you run into problems.
I have seen one or two instances where an S60 had a problem, but it wasn't a power threshold issue, more like a manufacturing defect issue.
S60 with a truetrac is strong. Period. 9" or 12 bolt with a truetrac... not so much.
Seems like I'll probably be getting an s60 under my car.
#76
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I have one car with a Truetrack & one with a spool, never had problems with my TT, I got it not too long after they came out probably about 6 years ago. Don't drive that car much, but consistantly cuts 1.5x shorts on 6500 clutch dumps on regular ET Streets.
My spool car is an A4, so different animal, I used to not worry about spool's on the street, then last month I had a blowout on the front going about 60 just regular driving & my car darted into the curb, jumped it & hit a tree. Now I'm looking for a roller. I think if I would have had a posi, the car would have been more controllable after the blow out & all I would be doing is changing a tire, not a whole body & 2 Street Lites. I am sticking with the spool in that car though, too much HP for a posi about 795 rwhp in a 3800# car running 9.7x.
My spool car is an A4, so different animal, I used to not worry about spool's on the street, then last month I had a blowout on the front going about 60 just regular driving & my car darted into the curb, jumped it & hit a tree. Now I'm looking for a roller. I think if I would have had a posi, the car would have been more controllable after the blow out & all I would be doing is changing a tire, not a whole body & 2 Street Lites. I am sticking with the spool in that car though, too much HP for a posi about 795 rwhp in a 3800# car running 9.7x.
#77
TECH Regular
Locker won't give you any problems, but believe me, I've been in a car that had one quite a bit, and as soon as you put rod ended supsension and a solid mounted type tq arm, it sucks to drive around with. Track car it would probably be fine.
fst ss... only reason that thing's still together is because you're staying away from the track.
Dead hook that thing a 1/2 dozen times, or get into a try tire wheel hop during a burnout once and lemme know what kind of shape it's in.
fst ss... only reason that thing's still together is because you're staying away from the track.
Dead hook that thing a 1/2 dozen times, or get into a try tire wheel hop during a burnout once and lemme know what kind of shape it's in.
I've got a BMR drag pac torque arm, BMR lower control arms and have not experienced any wheel hop. You're saying if I take it to the track and do a hard launch on M/T E T street radials it's gonna break?
#79
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Isn't the truetrac made by eaton? Mine came with both detroit and eaton stickers... hmmm?
Anyway, the truetrac in a 35 spline is a beast. I'm not aware of any problems with them. Talk to Eric at midwest chassis. He's a firm believer that the 35 spline version is stronger than most bracket cars can use. The 31 spline and smaller versions are where you run into problems.
I have seen one or two instances where an S60 had a problem, but it wasn't a power threshold issue, more like a manufacturing defect issue.
S60 with a truetrac is strong. Period. 9" or 12 bolt with a truetrac... not so much.
Anyway, the truetrac in a 35 spline is a beast. I'm not aware of any problems with them. Talk to Eric at midwest chassis. He's a firm believer that the 35 spline version is stronger than most bracket cars can use. The 31 spline and smaller versions are where you run into problems.
I have seen one or two instances where an S60 had a problem, but it wasn't a power threshold issue, more like a manufacturing defect issue.
S60 with a truetrac is strong. Period. 9" or 12 bolt with a truetrac... not so much.
#80