Should I switch to a TH400?
10-14-2009, 06:16 PM
#42
All I can say is this, That cam is not doing you any favors and that ET Street should be swapped for a ET Drag.
My car....
m6 - 12 bolt - 4.10's BMR LCA and TQ arm - Stock Shocks - 4k+ race weight - VRx4 cam 228/230, making 380-385 - full exhaust w/ cats - tune -Tex oz700 clutch
ran 12.30's @ 112-113 w/ a 1.78 or so 60 foot.
The car was rolling on convo pros, and the smallest ET drag they make. I had thechef w/ me lining me up, got a good burn out 5.5k dump with no 2 step and managed pretty good. The car needs QA1's which I have bought and I have R series fronts on the way. I also just got a UMI Drag bar and TQ arm relocation bracket.
We hop to be leaving level and popping the wheels decently.
When I see the first vid, that cam has such shitty under curve power, its almost a 2 step is not needed. To be honest I have no clue where the top end is either as apparent with the mph.
With the nitrous, it may become a differnet beast but for now I think that car def leaving too soft.
My car....
m6 - 12 bolt - 4.10's BMR LCA and TQ arm - Stock Shocks - 4k+ race weight - VRx4 cam 228/230, making 380-385 - full exhaust w/ cats - tune -Tex oz700 clutch
ran 12.30's @ 112-113 w/ a 1.78 or so 60 foot.
The car was rolling on convo pros, and the smallest ET drag they make. I had thechef w/ me lining me up, got a good burn out 5.5k dump with no 2 step and managed pretty good. The car needs QA1's which I have bought and I have R series fronts on the way. I also just got a UMI Drag bar and TQ arm relocation bracket.
We hop to be leaving level and popping the wheels decently.
When I see the first vid, that cam has such shitty under curve power, its almost a 2 step is not needed. To be honest I have no clue where the top end is either as apparent with the mph.
With the nitrous, it may become a differnet beast but for now I think that car def leaving too soft.
PS i dont like the way the car leaves off the two step.......
10-14-2009, 06:25 PM
#43
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For his power level, et streets should work fine. You are leaving too low IMO Try leaving around 6k maybe more. If you dump you need a little spin. The suspension isnt helping you either, and you are bogging in the first vid. Tire pressure looked a bit high, so lower it a bit, and launch higher. Then see if the car is unloading..
PS i dont like the way the car leaves off the two step.......
PS i dont like the way the car leaves off the two step.......
wouldn't lowering the tire pressure increase grip? I was at 18psi hot
10-14-2009, 07:04 PM
#44
Yep, but you are leaving too low of an rpm.. So when you leave at lets say 6200-6400 n 18psi you will spin like mad mos likely. Tire pessure for me on those size was about 12 psi.... I run between 11-14 psi now dependng on the prep, with 28x13.50-15 qtp's...
10-14-2009, 07:06 PM
#45
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As I said in the OP, the week before when it was in the 80s (these videos it was in the 40s) i got 2 to 3 revolutions of tire spin off the line.
I think it was just to cold/sticky that night. I didn't want to bump up the 2 step because I just wanted to practice as I am still doing shake downs on the suspension. (even though I'm done for the season now)
I just don't see bumping it up to 6k that night, and hitting 11's
I think it was just to cold/sticky that night. I didn't want to bump up the 2 step because I just wanted to practice as I am still doing shake downs on the suspension. (even though I'm done for the season now)
I just don't see bumping it up to 6k that night, and hitting 11's
10-14-2009, 07:09 PM
#46
As I said in the OP, the week before when it was in the 80s (these videos it was in the 40s) i got 2 to 3 revolutions of tire spin off the line.
I think it was just to cold/sticky that night. I didn't want to bump up the 2 step because I just wanted to practice as I am still doing shake downs on the suspension. (even though I'm done for the season now)
I just don't see bumping it up to 6k that night, and hitting 11's
I think it was just to cold/sticky that night. I didn't want to bump up the 2 step because I just wanted to practice as I am still doing shake downs on the suspension. (even though I'm done for the season now)
I just don't see bumping it up to 6k that night, and hitting 11's
Im expecting 1.4's next time out.
RPM is crucial when your obviously bogging....
what basis did you make for setting the two step @ 5500??? Just a random number, did you ever try higher, or you tried 5500 and it worked in the summer some-what. Just be prepared to make lots of adjustments to everything for different track conditions, cant expect to go and try the same thing for ever condition...
10-14-2009, 07:14 PM
#47
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I agree. Doesn't 6500 seem to high for stock lifters? I was always told they float around 6500?
But I just don't get why it's not going faster. If people are running 11's ( you for a good example, while you only have ~40hp more)
and I clicked off a 12.72....granted I was "old woman shifting" - not quite granny, but still, I don't see that making me hit 11's
switch to auto and go faster?
But I just don't get why it's not going faster. If people are running 11's ( you for a good example, while you only have ~40hp more)
and I clicked off a 12.72....granted I was "old woman shifting" - not quite granny, but still, I don't see that making me hit 11's
switch to auto and go faster?
10-14-2009, 07:25 PM
#48
I agree. Doesn't 6500 seem to high for stock lifters? I was always told they float around 6500?
But I just don't get why it's not going faster. If people are running 11's ( you for a good example, while you only have ~40hp more)
and I clicked off a 12.72....granted I was "old woman shifting" - not quite granny, but still, I don't see that making me hit 11's
switch to auto and go faster?
But I just don't get why it's not going faster. If people are running 11's ( you for a good example, while you only have ~40hp more)
and I clicked off a 12.72....granted I was "old woman shifting" - not quite granny, but still, I don't see that making me hit 11's
switch to auto and go faster?
What trap speeds does it usually run, 60's good and bad.
You need less tire, or more gear also. 3.90's with 28's doesnt work well with your setup.....
10-14-2009, 07:29 PM
#49
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well, not an easy question to answer, I was trapping 111.X mph that night
Before the suspension and cage I was at 116mph, but with street tires.
What gears do I want? I'm assuming I need that straightened out before I throw in the auto
Before the suspension and cage I was at 116mph, but with street tires.
What gears do I want? I'm assuming I need that straightened out before I throw in the auto
10-14-2009, 07:47 PM
#50
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I might have missed it somewhere, but you say you leave @ 5500RPM?
Well, the video you have linked, sounded like you left off of idle?????
And DEFINITELY not 5500 RPM....
To me, @ your levels, there is NO reason to go auto...you start pushing 700+, then you can start talking about benefits of auto over stick. But, a good driver (not saying you are, one way or the other) should be able to drive a 500-600 HP stick car down teh track just fine, and put in a auto, and come out with @ same ET.
When I went from stick (tremec 5 speed) to auto (C4) in my Mustang YEARS back, went 10.30's/10.50's to 10.30's/10.50's. (302 on spray). No change whatsoever.
When I built another car (another Mustang), 351 based, again, on spray. Went 9.70's-9.90's rowing gears through a Doug Nash 5 speed. Put a glide in it, yep, same thing, 9.70's-9.90's.
Only reason I swapped over to auto on my first go round (302) was because I was breaking that Tremec left and right (this was back @ '94 or so) Put teh C4 in, and ran it for a year, even swapped converters thinking I would pick some up. Nope. Eventually, sold that car.
When I picked up the 351 Mustang, I was actually looking to go 8's and knew I need an auto for that, but the car came with teh Doug Nash 5 speed. So, of course, had to give it a shot. I broke the Nash after 5 or 6 passes (snapped mainshaft), and went Glide.
Anyways, all I am saying is, at your levels, a stick car is not anymore maintenance than an auto, and unless you are just a bad driver, car will not be any faster with an auto.
Well, the video you have linked, sounded like you left off of idle?????
And DEFINITELY not 5500 RPM....To me, @ your levels, there is NO reason to go auto...you start pushing 700+, then you can start talking about benefits of auto over stick. But, a good driver (not saying you are, one way or the other) should be able to drive a 500-600 HP stick car down teh track just fine, and put in a auto, and come out with @ same ET.
When I went from stick (tremec 5 speed) to auto (C4) in my Mustang YEARS back, went 10.30's/10.50's to 10.30's/10.50's. (302 on spray). No change whatsoever.
When I built another car (another Mustang), 351 based, again, on spray. Went 9.70's-9.90's rowing gears through a Doug Nash 5 speed. Put a glide in it, yep, same thing, 9.70's-9.90's.
Only reason I swapped over to auto on my first go round (302) was because I was breaking that Tremec left and right (this was back @ '94 or so) Put teh C4 in, and ran it for a year, even swapped converters thinking I would pick some up. Nope. Eventually, sold that car.
When I picked up the 351 Mustang, I was actually looking to go 8's and knew I need an auto for that, but the car came with teh Doug Nash 5 speed. So, of course, had to give it a shot. I broke the Nash after 5 or 6 passes (snapped mainshaft), and went Glide.
Anyways, all I am saying is, at your levels, a stick car is not anymore maintenance than an auto, and unless you are just a bad driver, car will not be any faster with an auto.
10-14-2009, 07:54 PM
#51
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yeah the 1st video, I screwed up and only bounced off the 2 step maybe 2-3 times.
The other times in the night I was on it for a few seconds, before the tree dropped.
I just don't get why I'm running so much slower then? Gearing killing me that bad?
but as you said, I don't want to start breaking things left and right, as I have no trailer...but i've listed my upgrades, I think I should be okay
The other times in the night I was on it for a few seconds, before the tree dropped.
I just don't get why I'm running so much slower then? Gearing killing me that bad?
but as you said, I don't want to start breaking things left and right, as I have no trailer...but i've listed my upgrades, I think I should be okay
I might have missed it somewhere, but you say you leave @ 5500RPM?
Well, the video you have linked, sounded like you left off of idle????? And DEFINITELY not 5500 RPM....
To me, @ your levels, there is NO reason to go auto...you start pushing 700+, then you can start talking about benefits of auto over stick. But, a good driver (not saying you are, one way or the other) should be able to drive a 500-600 HP stick car down teh track just fine, and put in a auto, and come out with @ same ET.
When I went from stick (tremec 5 speed) to auto (C4) in my Mustang YEARS back, went 10.30's/10.50's to 10.30's/10.50's. (302 on spray). No change whatsoever.
When I built another car (another Mustang), 351 based, again, on spray. Went 9.70's-9.90's rowing gears through a Doug Nash 5 speed. Put a glide in it, yep, same thing, 9.70's-9.90's.
Only reason I swapped over to auto on my first go round (302) was because I was breaking that Tremec left and right (this was back @ '94 or so) Put teh C4 in, and ran it for a year, even swapped converters thinking I would pick some up. Nope. Eventually, sold that car.
When I picked up the 351 Mustang, I was actually looking to go 8's and knew I need an auto for that, but the car came with teh Doug Nash 5 speed. So, of course, had to give it a shot. I broke the Nash after 5 or 6 passes (snapped mainshaft), and went Glide.
Anyways, all I am saying is, at your levels, a stick car is not anymore maintenance than an auto, and unless you are just a bad driver, car will not be any faster with an auto.
Well, the video you have linked, sounded like you left off of idle?????
And DEFINITELY not 5500 RPM....To me, @ your levels, there is NO reason to go auto...you start pushing 700+, then you can start talking about benefits of auto over stick. But, a good driver (not saying you are, one way or the other) should be able to drive a 500-600 HP stick car down teh track just fine, and put in a auto, and come out with @ same ET.
When I went from stick (tremec 5 speed) to auto (C4) in my Mustang YEARS back, went 10.30's/10.50's to 10.30's/10.50's. (302 on spray). No change whatsoever.
When I built another car (another Mustang), 351 based, again, on spray. Went 9.70's-9.90's rowing gears through a Doug Nash 5 speed. Put a glide in it, yep, same thing, 9.70's-9.90's.
Only reason I swapped over to auto on my first go round (302) was because I was breaking that Tremec left and right (this was back @ '94 or so) Put teh C4 in, and ran it for a year, even swapped converters thinking I would pick some up. Nope. Eventually, sold that car.
When I picked up the 351 Mustang, I was actually looking to go 8's and knew I need an auto for that, but the car came with teh Doug Nash 5 speed. So, of course, had to give it a shot. I broke the Nash after 5 or 6 passes (snapped mainshaft), and went Glide.
Anyways, all I am saying is, at your levels, a stick car is not anymore maintenance than an auto, and unless you are just a bad driver, car will not be any faster with an auto.
10-14-2009, 08:06 PM
#53
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yeah the 1st video, I screwed up and only bounced off the 2 step maybe 2-3 times.
The other times in the night I was on it for a few seconds, before the tree dropped.
I just don't get why I'm running so much slower then? Gearing killing me that bad?
but as you said, I don't want to start breaking things left and right, as I have no trailer...but i've listed my upgrades, I think I should be okay
The other times in the night I was on it for a few seconds, before the tree dropped.
I just don't get why I'm running so much slower then? Gearing killing me that bad?
but as you said, I don't want to start breaking things left and right, as I have no trailer...but i've listed my upgrades, I think I should be okay
Well, in that first video, when you left close to idle, it sounded like you had a freakin power glide in there! I was like HOLY ****, when he is gonna shift...HALF TRACK?!?!?!?!
BUt, when you bog like that (did not watch other video), it is gonna KILL ya. You need wheel speed baby!! You want them on teh verge of breaking loose.
I am gonna assume your car bogs regardless, but if it does not, correct me, but assuming that, here goes:
you can do a few things:
A)Need to change gearing (R&P or shorter tire)
B)Tie down teh front end, so you get NO weight transfer (reason I am saying this is, again, your car is hooking TOO good, again, going from your bogging video)
C) Don't do a burnout. Just roll through, spin em real quick, JUST to knock the dirt/**** off. Again, this will allow you to possibly gain some much needed wheel speed by "spinning" some.
D)Also, make sure that your right foot is PLANTED through the floor when you launch. I personally do not like 2 steps though either...
Before I get tooooo far into that...DOES your car bog normally, or????
10-14-2009, 08:07 PM
#54
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some slip info
60' - 1.897
330 - 5.438
1/8 - 8.283
MPH - 87.16
1000 - 10.689
1/4 - 12.725
MPH - 110.96
Next pass, off the 2 step for sure
60 - 1.968
330 - 5.563
1/8 - 8.380
mph - 8.380
1000 - 10.775
1/4 - 12.803
mph - 111.46
60' - 1.897
330 - 5.438
1/8 - 8.283
MPH - 87.16
1000 - 10.689
1/4 - 12.725
MPH - 110.96
Next pass, off the 2 step for sure
60 - 1.968
330 - 5.563
1/8 - 8.380
mph - 8.380
1000 - 10.775
1/4 - 12.803
mph - 111.46
10-14-2009, 08:14 PM
#55
FWIW, with a lid, slicks and headers, untuned I went 12.2 @112. I think you really gotta chck it out, is it really making 400 rwhp, its down 5 mph from usual???? somethings up., and 116 is aso a little slow for a 400 rwhp car.
What rpm do you shift at also?
first try your street tires again, assuming they are 25.4 or 26" ~ To see if thats affecting your mh that bad, but 28's with 3.90's is bad IMO.
10-14-2009, 08:27 PM
#56
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Well, in that first video, when you left close to idle, it sounded like you had a freakin power glide in there! I was like HOLY ****, when he is gonna shift...HALF TRACK?!?!?!?!
BUt, when you bog like that (did not watch other video), it is gonna KILL ya. You need wheel speed baby!! You want them on teh verge of breaking loose.
I am gonna assume your car bogs regardless, but if it does not, correct me, but assuming that, here goes:
you can do a few things:
A)Need to change gearing (R&P or shorter tire)
B)Tie down teh front end, so you get NO weight transfer (reason I am saying this is, again, your car is hooking TOO good, again, going from your bogging video)
C) Don't do a burnout. Just roll through, spin em real quick, JUST to knock the dirt/**** off. Again, this will allow you to possibly gain some much needed wheel speed by "spinning" some.
D)Also, make sure that your right foot is PLANTED through the floor when you launch. I personally do not like 2 steps though either...
Before I get tooooo far into that...DOES your car bog normally, or????
BUt, when you bog like that (did not watch other video), it is gonna KILL ya. You need wheel speed baby!! You want them on teh verge of breaking loose.
I am gonna assume your car bogs regardless, but if it does not, correct me, but assuming that, here goes:
you can do a few things:
A)Need to change gearing (R&P or shorter tire)
B)Tie down teh front end, so you get NO weight transfer (reason I am saying this is, again, your car is hooking TOO good, again, going from your bogging video)
C) Don't do a burnout. Just roll through, spin em real quick, JUST to knock the dirt/**** off. Again, this will allow you to possibly gain some much needed wheel speed by "spinning" some.
D)Also, make sure that your right foot is PLANTED through the floor when you launch. I personally do not like 2 steps though either...
Before I get tooooo far into that...DOES your car bog normally, or????
when it was warmer out it didn't bog nearly as much
A) - i'll do more research about the garing
B) - I can adjust the shocks, not let it transfer as much
C) - I did try that in my 3rd run, it's in my videos, and she spun so bad the back end walked out, had to let off, and get back into it, but still trapped 110mph
D) - agreed
10-14-2009, 08:29 PM
#59
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MPH is awfully low, I dont think the gearing would hurt that much, but who knows.
FWIW, with a lid, slicks and headers, untuned I went 12.2 @112. I think you really gotta chck it out, is it really making 400 rwhp, its down 5 mph from usual???? somethings up., and 116 is aso a little slow for a 400 rwhp car.
What rpm do you shift at also?
first try your street tires again, assuming they are 25.4 or 26" ~ To see if thats affecting your mh that bad, but 28's with 3.90's is bad IMO.
FWIW, with a lid, slicks and headers, untuned I went 12.2 @112. I think you really gotta chck it out, is it really making 400 rwhp, its down 5 mph from usual???? somethings up., and 116 is aso a little slow for a 400 rwhp car.
What rpm do you shift at also?
first try your street tires again, assuming they are 25.4 or 26" ~ To see if thats affecting your mh that bad, but 28's with 3.90's is bad IMO.
I shift at 6000 that day. rev limiter at 6500 - all gears