DIY - Anti-Sway Bar, Drag Race Sway Bar
10-20-2009, 05:12 PM
#21
I finally got some left hand thread 1/2" 20 studs. Ended up buying a couple more spherical rod ends with those threads and just cutting off the rod end. Then I welded that to a normal right hand thread bolt. Also fabbed up the upper mount with a welded stud for the top heim joint.
Mike
Mike
10-22-2009, 09:50 AM
#24
Thanks guys.
I took the car out for a short drive yesterday. Everything felt solid and quiet and that sway bar is one stiff *****. It takes a little getting used to driving it with that bar back there. The whole rear of the car feels more solid though, especially taking off from a dead stop. I don't get that rocking, mushy feeling taking off now.
When I got back from the first drive I set the preload per Spohn's suggestion. Going to take it out again today to see if it made any difference in the way it drives, launches etc.. For now, everything seems to be working great.
I want to get this thing to the track this weekend. Hopefully the weather will cooperate.
Mike
I took the car out for a short drive yesterday. Everything felt solid and quiet and that sway bar is one stiff *****. It takes a little getting used to driving it with that bar back there. The whole rear of the car feels more solid though, especially taking off from a dead stop. I don't get that rocking, mushy feeling taking off now.
When I got back from the first drive I set the preload per Spohn's suggestion. Going to take it out again today to see if it made any difference in the way it drives, launches etc.. For now, everything seems to be working great.
I want to get this thing to the track this weekend. Hopefully the weather will cooperate.
Mike
10-22-2009, 10:07 AM
#25
But they still recommend a weld to secure it. This allows for people to DIY and then drive to a shop if they dont have a welder.
I took mine for a test drive and you can feel the diff. Personally before going to the track weld the plates to the chassis.
10-22-2009, 02:41 PM
#26
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UMI uses the stock holes just like this one, but the plate comes around the edge to help the bar not push forward and thus less stress on the bolts and threads.
But they still recommend a weld to secure it. This allows for people to DIY and then drive to a shop if they dont have a welder.
I took mine for a test drive and you can feel the diff. Personally before going to the track weld the plates to the chassis.
But they still recommend a weld to secure it. This allows for people to DIY and then drive to a shop if they dont have a welder.
I took mine for a test drive and you can feel the diff. Personally before going to the track weld the plates to the chassis.
What kind of 60' times were running with the car? Were they mostly wheels up launches?
10-22-2009, 03:07 PM
#28
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perhaps the wolfe is different in regards to body roll. hell i dont know..
10-26-2009, 04:30 PM
#31
The good news is that the anti-sway bar did work, and did it's job. 
I'm processing some videos now that show the difference in launches from before and after. I'm slowing down the vids to show how level the car launches now in comparison to before the bar.
The bad news is that I had a bit too much preload on the anti-roll bar, so it was actually picking up the passenger side front end BEFORE the driver side. The other bad news is that it didn't help my 60' times like I had hoped, and the racing season is almost over here in the pacific northwest. The last track opening is next weekend, and that's only if the weather cooperates.
I'll have those videos uploaded soon.
Mike
I'm processing some videos now that show the difference in launches from before and after. I'm slowing down the vids to show how level the car launches now in comparison to before the bar. The bad news is that I had a bit too much preload on the anti-roll bar, so it was actually picking up the passenger side front end BEFORE the driver side. The other bad news is that it didn't help my 60' times like I had hoped, and the racing season is almost over here in the pacific northwest. The last track opening is next weekend, and that's only if the weather cooperates.
I'll have those videos uploaded soon.
Mike
10-26-2009, 04:49 PM
#33
As you can see from the video's below, the DIY anti-roll bar does work. The car is most definitely in better form with the drag bar installed. Still need to tune the rest of the rear suspension, but it's getting there.
Here is a video of the car launching WITHOUT the anti-roll bar installed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yqJAuRxs1o
Here is a video of the car launching WITH the anti-roll bar installed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyN6iLugCt8
Mike
Here is a video of the car launching WITHOUT the anti-roll bar installed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yqJAuRxs1o
Here is a video of the car launching WITH the anti-roll bar installed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyN6iLugCt8
Mike
10-26-2009, 07:01 PM
#36
As you can see from the video's below, the DIY anti-roll bar does work. The car is most definitely in better form with the drag bar installed. Still need to tune the rest of the rear suspension, but it's getting there.
Here is a video of the car launching WITHOUT the anti-roll bar installed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yqJAuRxs1o
Here is a video of the car launching WITH the anti-roll bar installed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyN6iLugCt8
Mike
Here is a video of the car launching WITHOUT the anti-roll bar installed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yqJAuRxs1o
Here is a video of the car launching WITH the anti-roll bar installed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyN6iLugCt8
Mike
And what torque arm..... Your car does what mine did before I made a crazy adjustable torque arm..... Hits hard, compresses the tire to the rim, then unloads...
10-26-2009, 07:57 PM
#37
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...wayBar/014.jpg
looks like the shocks are binding, thouse are the summit/desctech?
I did this and he looked like it got some more movemnt. The shocks aren't being turned to be nertual - take the nut off and put the washer on the outside and the lock washer on the inside. Give some more movment on the lower mount But your look alot more, to much that little change would be enogh. How much pinion angle?
looks like the shocks are binding, thouse are the summit/desctech?
I did this and he looked like it got some more movemnt. The shocks aren't being turned to be nertual - take the nut off and put the washer on the outside and the lock washer on the inside. Give some more movment on the lower mount But your look alot more, to much that little change would be enogh. How much pinion angle?
Last edited by studderin; 10-26-2009 at 08:14 PM.
10-26-2009, 08:53 PM
#38
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...wayBar/014.jpg
looks like the shocks are binding, thouse are the summit/desctech?
I did this and he looked like it got some more movemnt. The shocks aren't being turned to be nertual - take the nut off and put the washer on the outside and the lock washer on the inside. Give some more movment on the lower mount But your look alot more, to much that little change would be enogh. How much pinion angle?
looks like the shocks are binding, thouse are the summit/desctech?
I did this and he looked like it got some more movemnt. The shocks aren't being turned to be nertual - take the nut off and put the washer on the outside and the lock washer on the inside. Give some more movment on the lower mount But your look alot more, to much that little change would be enogh. How much pinion angle?
Mike
Mike
10-26-2009, 08:56 PM
#39
Tire pressure is 12psi. I've tried higher and lower pressures and the car seems to like 12 the best. The torque arm is a Spohn tunnel mount. I did make some new rotator plates, so I can adjust the front of the torque arm up about 2.25" from the stock location in .75" increments. Both of the vids shown above were with the t/a in the very bottom hole (stock hole). My car is lowered quite a bit also.
Close, they're the Competition Engineering 3-way adjustables. I've thought about making a better bottom mount for those shocks so that they can rotate more easily in the mount, similar to a QA1 shock mount. Also, I have the shocks set on the firmest compression with loosest rebound in an effort to help keep the tires planted. Pinion angle is at -1 degree.
Mike
Mike
Close, they're the Competition Engineering 3-way adjustables. I've thought about making a better bottom mount for those shocks so that they can rotate more easily in the mount, similar to a QA1 shock mount. Also, I have the shocks set on the firmest compression with loosest rebound in an effort to help keep the tires planted. Pinion angle is at -1 degree.
Mike
Mike
10-26-2009, 09:02 PM
#40
Mike