DIY - Anti-Sway Bar, Drag Race Sway Bar
#62
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Well I made it to the track last night with the new LCA mounts on the rearend. Made 4 passes, and on the 5th pass this happened.......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TgzhLSBsm4
I think it chucked a rod or spit a valve. Either way it's not good..... Looks like it's time for an upgrade. I just hope the Darton sleeved block is still salvagable.
Mike
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TgzhLSBsm4
I think it chucked a rod or spit a valve. Either way it's not good..... Looks like it's time for an upgrade. I just hope the Darton sleeved block is still salvagable.
Mike
#63
Well I made it to the track last night with the new LCA mounts on the rearend. Made 4 passes, and on the 5th pass this happened.......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TgzhLSBsm4
I think it chucked a rod or spit a valve. Either way it's not good..... Looks like it's time for an upgrade. I just hope the Darton sleeved block is still salvagable.
Mike
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TgzhLSBsm4
I think it chucked a rod or spit a valve. Either way it's not good..... Looks like it's time for an upgrade. I just hope the Darton sleeved block is still salvagable.
Mike
That sucks.
#67
Instant center and shock adjustment. Looks like it spun pretty good on the last pass that took out the motor. GL with getting it back on the road. Looks like it trapped 118.6, motor was hurt pretty good if you were trapping 125 before.
#68
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Yes it was hurt at the line. I have one injector that's missing the metal retainer and it pops off every once in awhile so I thought that was what happened. Little did I realize the engine was hurtin'.
I'm not sure, I didn't even pick up the slip. The four previous runs were low 1.7x's, so the suspension changes were working. You're correct, I've reviewed the good runs in slowmo, and it wasn't shocking the tires as bad. Could have dropped the lca's another hole or two. These runs were with the LCA at 4.5 degrees without me in the car.
Didn't get the chance to change the rear shock settings, so they were still at 70/30.
I won't have a chance to really dig into the engine until later this week. I did pull a valvecover and all the spark plugs from the driver side where all the oil came from. All the plugs looked good, and no broken valves or springs.
Mike
I won't have a chance to really dig into the engine until later this week. I did pull a valvecover and all the spark plugs from the driver side where all the oil came from. All the plugs looked good, and no broken valves or springs.
Mike
#70
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I don't think the sleeves had anything to do with this. Pushing close to 600 flywheel hp on a stock connecting rod is most likely the cause. I'm pulling the engine out of the car now. Looks like it chucked a connecting rod through the block located just under the driver side motor mount. From what I've seen, it didn't hit a water jacket. Even if the sleeve is messed up, the block could still possibly be salvagable. That's one of the benefits of of the Darton MID system, individual replaceable sleeves.
I should know more by tomorrow (keeping fingers crossed that the inside of the block isn't fubar'd).
Mike
I should know more by tomorrow (keeping fingers crossed that the inside of the block isn't fubar'd).
Mike
#71
Stock rods.... There is no way in hell I would put a stock rod in an expensive block like that. The price difference between a stock rod with a good bolt in it and a cheap aftermarket rod is about $210.
I hope for you that it didn't take out your block.
I hope for you that it didn't take out your block.
#72
Yea because it will buff out right? You've got to be kidding me if you really think a hole in the side of the block is salvageable.
#73
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From: Vancouver, WA
Mike