ya? updates?

 

any updates?

 

Here are a few more pics

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...ar-update.html

 

Some more info on this

Fbody water pump, with tenconior 15.0#s


rad. M6 (99% drained) with upper/lower hose, and fans. 21.2#s

 

How light are you looking to get? I think this is a little extreme from what I was comprehending from your build thread, but it seems you are changing everything up.

 

Just figured I would post some pics of the route I went with a remote ewp. Mezeire pump mounted to the radiator shroud I made with a 90degree -16 an fitting and aluminum bracket. Coolant lines are -12 an, with -4 steam vent lines into a distribution block I made out of 1" aluminum plate, going to a -6 back to the radiator. Also made the 012an to block plates out of 1/2" x 3" 6061 aluminum bar, cut out on a bandsaw. Still got alot of work to do to clean up the engine bay but tried to get it together quick to make the track for this year....

 

how much does that all weigh??

 

Not much, the pump is about 6 lbs, I'd guess the lines an aluminum block plates at about 4-5.

 

I don't see why you couldn't use that black earls line for coolent, thats nylon or somthing, buts it smooth and doesn't scratch you up. Its a lot lighter then the braided stainless line.

BaddSS that setup is really bad ***, I want to do that this winter. I was tring to buy paul majors setup he was selling with a C&R rad with the 55gal metzire pump that mounted right on the end tank. It was really nice. Scorrio style dual pass rad with a fit, shrouded fan.

 

You can use the pushloc style hose if you want, you don't have to use braided hose at all.

 

I dont like the pro lite or any of that nylon covered hose. My friend has it and it got ratty looking pretty fast, and for the small amount of weight it saves, less than a pound, it isnt worth it. I like stainless braid, always have.

Try and get that setup, I think mine is only 35 gpm, but without a thermostat the car works fine. Radiator is very efficient at cooling now, we tried running without the fan on and it would work, the fan kicks on for 1o seconds and can drop ect 20+ degree's. It runs about 172.. fan kicks on at I think 190, I almost never hear it come on.

IMO pushloc hose looks like cheap crap, reminds me of pex tubing from home depot.....Just without the little copper sleeves.

Stainless braid aint cheap, but hell I spent tons on this setup, might as well use good stuff.

 

I agree the blue stuff does look cheesy.... but I've seen it on too many 7 second cars to think it's not a viable option.

There's supposedly a black hose now that doesn't look as bad, haven't seen it yet though.

 

not that blue pushloc, used it on a turbo car. didn't like the idea how the ends just pushed on but it did hold up fine. A good thing was the hose doesn't cut into anything it touches like steel braided dose, bad was it scuffs easy and get dirty looks like **** 5min after its new.

I mean the russell pro-classic, its black with a little blue, I think its in red now too? It's few bucks more but its worth it for living with it. (10/ft) Better in every way I can thing of
The earls hose is lighter and thinner, then the russle

 

What all is required to do to the front of the motor when doing this? One of my neighbors has a remote wp he would give/sell me and if its not too much work i wouldnt mind doing it this way. I have to get the burkhart front support (my bumper is starting to sag BAD) and might as well get a new radiator/fan setup to put in the front of it while im at it.


If its something that is truely a PITA i pry will let it be tho

 

All ya need is the WP fittings for the block, run the lines from the pump to the motor, then from the motor back to the radiator, pretty simple actually.

Makes it a little easier to work on things, and if you're putting a small radiator in the nose like the one that burkhart offers in their bumper support you can put the pump in there, and probably not have to touch the radiator when the motor gets pulled, just unhook the lines and that's it.