Small radatior, and remote mount water pump.
#1
Small radatior, and remote mount water pump.
Anyone running a setup like this? The stock fans, and radatior are heavy I know guys go to lighter fans. Joelster told me some LT1 v6 cars had a single fan thats saves somthing like #12 and is a easy swap.
I know the turbo guys go to the smaller rad upright, with the cut top support. And the evo8 guys go to little mitusmeto? 3/4, 1/2 wide setups for more room, and they push thouse motors hard and ther fine for cooling on the street. Some locals have foward facing turbo kits with them then drive on the street a bunch.
For a NA LS1 car I think you could do it too. And go to a eletric waterpump too. But thinking about a remote mount WP, to save even more weight. I know the metzier remote pumps are good. Alot of GTP guys ran them on the IC systems on street cars and they lasted a ton of hours. You could just make up a setup for the lines off the block. If you had a motor plate, how do you guys do it? Don't you use the WP bolts to bolt the plate to? could you just weld nipple right to the motor plate and run the radatoir hoses off that to the Y (with a T stat?) to the pump/radatior.
I think I say somthing like this on done years ago. DPH? or some guy was making them? I remebed Domonicbird had this setup on his car.
I'll look thu some folders I have a pic, and see what I can find later today. Its to nice out, just washed the car.
Looking for more info on doing this for a winter project
I know the turbo guys go to the smaller rad upright, with the cut top support. And the evo8 guys go to little mitusmeto? 3/4, 1/2 wide setups for more room, and they push thouse motors hard and ther fine for cooling on the street. Some locals have foward facing turbo kits with them then drive on the street a bunch.
For a NA LS1 car I think you could do it too. And go to a eletric waterpump too. But thinking about a remote mount WP, to save even more weight. I know the metzier remote pumps are good. Alot of GTP guys ran them on the IC systems on street cars and they lasted a ton of hours. You could just make up a setup for the lines off the block. If you had a motor plate, how do you guys do it? Don't you use the WP bolts to bolt the plate to? could you just weld nipple right to the motor plate and run the radatoir hoses off that to the Y (with a T stat?) to the pump/radatior.
I think I say somthing like this on done years ago. DPH? or some guy was making them? I remebed Domonicbird had this setup on his car.
I'll look thu some folders I have a pic, and see what I can find later today. Its to nice out, just washed the car.
Looking for more info on doing this for a winter project
#2
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iTrader: (50)
Look on Burkhart's website, they have a setup available that goes in their bumper support that will do exactly what you're talking about.
then, the upper and lower radiator supports could be removed and replaced with a small piece of round bar just to tie the frame rails together to keep the car tight.
then, the upper and lower radiator supports could be removed and replaced with a small piece of round bar just to tie the frame rails together to keep the car tight.
#5
TECH Resident
iTrader: (17)
Custom afco radiator, has 2 -12AN male bungs and a 1/4" NPT for the bleeders, meziere radiator mount pump with dual outlets. Welded -12 bungs to the motorplate. Only thing I need to do with this setup is have a filler neck adapter inline on one of the return lines. hopefully some time later this month I have it all plumbed up.
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#8
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The motor plate I am suing attaches at the water pump bolts, I will be redoing it to attach at the alt mount, and the bottom of the passenger's side too if I can (going to make solid alum bracket)
Water pump bolts at least, put a gasket on the back side of the plate and the front if you use the fitting block, if you weld the fittings to the plate like the picture above you can get away with just 1 set of gaskets.
I have had zero problems with the 2 sets of gaskets and just attaching the plate with the water pump bolts, I used a good grade 8 bolt that was proper length, and I also have a torsional support running from the a/c attachment points on the block to the frame rail to stop the motor from moving forward and backwards.
#10
can you just use a normal trans mount/Xmember with a motor plate. I'm thinking about how working it on is, I'm a 6speed. So Id set it up so I'd unbolt the plate from the rails, maybe you could just put a long lower bolt in loose.Or have a ear on them like in the pic, to hold the motor up but that would scrach the hell out of the rails like that? But so I can tilt it back to get the trans and bellhousing off without changing anything with the floor/firewall.
#11
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If you run just a motor plate, you need a torsional support bar, you can make one to run from the a/c mounting points to teh frame rail (stops the motor from trying to move forward or backwards)
When you want to pull the tranny, just unbolt the torsional suppot, and loosen the bolts up a little, the plate will flex a little bit, plus with the bolts loose it's not a problem.
You could, also set the plate up with 4 bolts that hole it to the tabs, but not have the ears siting on the frame rail. Unbolt the motor plate, and with a jack lower the entire thing down to the next hole on the motor plate, if you spaced them right it would work, seen people do it that way too.
When you want to pull the tranny, just unbolt the torsional suppot, and loosen the bolts up a little, the plate will flex a little bit, plus with the bolts loose it's not a problem.
You could, also set the plate up with 4 bolts that hole it to the tabs, but not have the ears siting on the frame rail. Unbolt the motor plate, and with a jack lower the entire thing down to the next hole on the motor plate, if you spaced them right it would work, seen people do it that way too.
#13
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What did you use for the radiator cap there? Also, should you have one on both sides of the motor, or does that not matter... also, is that where the line for the overflow atached?
Need some part #s, that looks pretty slick, and a good way to go about it.
Any reason you put the vacum pump hookup on the valley cover and not the valve covers?
Need some part #s, that looks pretty slick, and a good way to go about it.
Any reason you put the vacum pump hookup on the valley cover and not the valve covers?
#14
TECH Resident
iTrader: (17)
What did you use for the radiator cap there? Also, should you have one on both sides of the motor, or does that not matter... also, is that where the line for the overflow atached?
Need some part #s, that looks pretty slick, and a good way to go about it.
Any reason you put the vacum pump hookup on the valley cover and not the valve covers?
Need some part #s, that looks pretty slick, and a good way to go about it.
Any reason you put the vacum pump hookup on the valley cover and not the valve covers?
Vac pump hook up is in the valley cover since Wegners uses a female -12AN bung anyway, looks pretty clean and functional since it will pull from a fairly open area of the block.
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Last edited by ATwelveSec02Z28; 11-15-2009 at 12:23 PM.
#17
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Anyone running a setup like this? The stock fans, and radatior are heavy I know guys go to lighter fans. Joelster told me some LT1 v6 cars had a single fan thats saves somthing like #12 and is a easy swap.
I know the turbo guys go to the smaller rad upright, with the cut top support. And the evo8 guys go to little mitusmeto? 3/4, 1/2 wide setups for more room, and they push thouse motors hard and ther fine for cooling on the street. Some locals have foward facing turbo kits with them then drive on the street a bunch.
For a NA LS1 car I think you could do it too. And go to a eletric waterpump too. But thinking about a remote mount WP, to save even more weight. I know the metzier remote pumps are good. Alot of GTP guys ran them on the IC systems on street cars and they lasted a ton of hours. You could just make up a setup for the lines off the block. If you had a motor plate, how do you guys do it? Don't you use the WP bolts to bolt the plate to? could you just weld nipple right to the motor plate and run the radatoir hoses off that to the Y (with a T stat?) to the pump/radatior.
I think I say somthing like this on done years ago. DPH? or some guy was making them? I remebed Domonicbird had this setup on his car.
I'll look thu some folders I have a pic, and see what I can find later today. Its to nice out, just washed the car.
Looking for more info on doing this for a winter project
I know the turbo guys go to the smaller rad upright, with the cut top support. And the evo8 guys go to little mitusmeto? 3/4, 1/2 wide setups for more room, and they push thouse motors hard and ther fine for cooling on the street. Some locals have foward facing turbo kits with them then drive on the street a bunch.
For a NA LS1 car I think you could do it too. And go to a eletric waterpump too. But thinking about a remote mount WP, to save even more weight. I know the metzier remote pumps are good. Alot of GTP guys ran them on the IC systems on street cars and they lasted a ton of hours. You could just make up a setup for the lines off the block. If you had a motor plate, how do you guys do it? Don't you use the WP bolts to bolt the plate to? could you just weld nipple right to the motor plate and run the radatoir hoses off that to the Y (with a T stat?) to the pump/radatior.
I think I say somthing like this on done years ago. DPH? or some guy was making them? I remebed Domonicbird had this setup on his car.
I'll look thu some folders I have a pic, and see what I can find later today. Its to nice out, just washed the car.
Looking for more info on doing this for a winter project