Strange 12 bolt and drag bar??
#1
Strange 12 bolt and drag bar??
I also posted this in suspension section, but afterwards thought it would be better hear.
I just want to know what some of you have done. My 12 bolt has the mounting for the factory sway bar welded on it. I am debating weather or not to get a drag bar. (been looking at umi) I like the idea of the drag bar for the strip, but i do like being able to corner if i so desire. My car doesnt seem to twist too bad off the line, but a few times last year when i went to take off the drivers side streetlite a few of the lugs were messed up. I am assuming that this is from additional load due to the car twisting. (cant figure out why the drivers side on second thought) but anyway next season i should be making around 530rwhp on motor and will stop at 650 on spray till i get a stand alone. I know the drag bar will help, but how much. It comes out pretty straight now, and i really dont want to cut the mounts off my rear. I also need to get lca relo brackets. Dont have those yet, or adjustable lcas, just the poly, poly tubular bmr ones. I guess where do you think my $$ will be best spent.
I just want to know what some of you have done. My 12 bolt has the mounting for the factory sway bar welded on it. I am debating weather or not to get a drag bar. (been looking at umi) I like the idea of the drag bar for the strip, but i do like being able to corner if i so desire. My car doesnt seem to twist too bad off the line, but a few times last year when i went to take off the drivers side streetlite a few of the lugs were messed up. I am assuming that this is from additional load due to the car twisting. (cant figure out why the drivers side on second thought) but anyway next season i should be making around 530rwhp on motor and will stop at 650 on spray till i get a stand alone. I know the drag bar will help, but how much. It comes out pretty straight now, and i really dont want to cut the mounts off my rear. I also need to get lca relo brackets. Dont have those yet, or adjustable lcas, just the poly, poly tubular bmr ones. I guess where do you think my $$ will be best spent.
#2
if you don't wanna get a drag bar you could always stick a drag bag under the passenger side. its not going to stiffen up as much as the bar though but it will help bandaid any launch issues till you figure out what you wanna do.
#4
Honestly, I've driven my car on the street with the wolfe drag bar and it's not that bad. high speed cornering is probably not the best idea, but then again I rolled on a big/little setup for 2 years before I took the car off the street, so I gave up on the handling end early LOL
The UMI bar isn't that bad, if you still have your stock front swaybar on, it's just going to drive a little stiffer, if you don't have the front one on at all, then it will almost feel like you have it back on.
The drag swaybar's really do make a difference. On these cars, it's one of the first things suspension wise I would do, after putting a good set of lca's, phb and tq arm on the car. Once those are done, the drag bar will keep it level, it's just a matter of wether the stock shocks will control the car like needed or not.
The UMI bar isn't that bad, if you still have your stock front swaybar on, it's just going to drive a little stiffer, if you don't have the front one on at all, then it will almost feel like you have it back on.
The drag swaybar's really do make a difference. On these cars, it's one of the first things suspension wise I would do, after putting a good set of lca's, phb and tq arm on the car. Once those are done, the drag bar will keep it level, it's just a matter of wether the stock shocks will control the car like needed or not.
#5
I have a bunch of bmr stuff on the car now, adjustable torque arm (tranny mounted for now) adj phr, tubular lcas (no relo brackets yet, would these help on a stock ride height car??) sub frame connectors. As for shocks when i got the car a few years ago the factory ones were junk, as were the rear springs. I replaced all the shocks with kyb 8 way adjustables and put new rear springs in. All new ball joints ect.. I know the shocks are not optimal for drag, but at the time i thought they were the best option. They do ok. I still have the front sway on, but i take it off when i go to the track.
I think the lca relo brackets, and the drag bar would help the most. I am reluctant to cut the mounts that strange has on the rear though for the factory sway bar. I probably just should it seems the only time i drive the car is to the track. Most of the time now when i want to cruise we take the wifes goat.
I think the lca relo brackets, and the drag bar would help the most. I am reluctant to cut the mounts that strange has on the rear though for the factory sway bar. I probably just should it seems the only time i drive the car is to the track. Most of the time now when i want to cruise we take the wifes goat.
#6
cut them off, it can always be rewelded on if need be
Sounds like a drag bar will help you out a good bit, I'd look into geting the tq arm off the tranny.. the motor and tranny mounts will thank you.
Sounds like a drag bar will help you out a good bit, I'd look into geting the tq arm off the tranny.. the motor and tranny mounts will thank you.
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#9
no i am not sure, now anyway. Umi said i would have to, but i was doing a search earlier and saw a post by a guy that had a S60 and used the factory mounts on the rear. He said they were a little far apart so the bushings are about as far out on the bar as they can get, but it worked. I sent him a pm, for some pics and am awaiting a reply.
#10
Yea, I just researched this, if you are planning of the UMI Drag Bar, you will have to cut off the stock brackets with the S60. No big deal. The added clearance you will get if you have adjustable shocks will make it more than worth it.
Last edited by 96onele; 12-27-2009 at 01:46 PM.
#14
I have a BMR bar and it worked with the stock S60 brackets, but I had to open up the bracket holes a touch.
I have a Spohn Bar on my fathers car and it used the stock brackets on his Strange 12 bolt.
I do not see why the UMI bar would require the mounts to be cut off.
I have a Spohn Bar on my fathers car and it used the stock brackets on his Strange 12 bolt.
I do not see why the UMI bar would require the mounts to be cut off.
#15
#16
Hope everybody had a good x-mas. I ate too much. Thanks for the replys. I called BMR the other day and talked to Lee. He said with what i have and what the car is doing that i wouldnt need the drag bar yet. Just to get lca brackets, and tube the tires. I will def get the lca relo brackets. I still think a drag bar would benifit me. I am tired of putting studs on the drivers side after racing. I dont want to give up my streetability though. I know i would probably not have a issue running the drag bar on the street, but i was wondering if i got the UMI, or spohn bar that bolts to the factory locations and didnt weld the plate in if i used it for track only and put the stock bar back on for the street if it would cause issues. From what i have read most of the people that break endlinks are driving on the street. I suppose the worst that would happen is both bolts on one side shear off at the track and you call it a day.
#17
Len - I run an older BMR drag bar that is 1" and solid (very heavy) which mounts to the stock location with stock type hardware (poly end links). I have a Strange 12-bolt and it bolts up just fine like stock. Spohn still makes one, but it's chrome moly. It works well on the street and strip (I don't run a front bar at all).
#18
Hope everybody had a good x-mas. I ate too much. Thanks for the replys. I called BMR the other day and talked to Lee. He said with what i have and what the car is doing that i wouldnt need the drag bar yet. Just to get lca brackets, and tube the tires. I will def get the lca relo brackets. I still think a drag bar would benifit me. I am tired of putting studs on the drivers side after racing. I dont want to give up my streetability though. I know i would probably not have a issue running the drag bar on the street, but i was wondering if i got the UMI, or spohn bar that bolts to the factory locations and didnt weld the plate in if i used it for track only and put the stock bar back on for the street if it would cause issues. From what i have read most of the people that break endlinks are driving on the street. I suppose the worst that would happen is both bolts on one side shear off at the track and you call it a day.
#19
I run the BMR drag bar and it is bolted to the mounts that came on my strange 12 bolt. I didn't have to slot holes or modify them at all and they are the same height as the mounts provided by BMR.
I would think the UMI bar would line up as well and it would be wise if they made a kit to bolt to a Strange rear that didn't require cutting the mounts off. I'm sure it works fine the way they sell it, but it seems it would be better if it was bolted to a welded mount. I like the fact that someone can buy the UMI bar and install it without welding on the axle, but if you have a Strange rear its already done.
I would think the UMI bar would line up as well and it would be wise if they made a kit to bolt to a Strange rear that didn't require cutting the mounts off. I'm sure it works fine the way they sell it, but it seems it would be better if it was bolted to a welded mount. I like the fact that someone can buy the UMI bar and install it without welding on the axle, but if you have a Strange rear its already done.