I am one of those that like to do it myself for many reasons. 1 is I really believe if you want it done right you need to do it yourself. With that said I know I want a CM kit. I personnaly think the ones that go over the rear seat look better than thru the speaker covers. I have no problem with the removal of the tank or any of that. I just do not know how to weld or desire to learn (tried and did not fit me). However the cost benefit for a weld in is alot cheaper than the bolt in styles. I thought about a bolt in kit and taking to have someone weld in after I installed?? The only problem there is the tank removal for a second time. Or just leaving bolt in or just welding everywhere else except behind the rear section. Just looking for opinions from what others have done.

 

well technically the rear bars have to be welded to the main bar. you might want to ask around and make sure you have someone who can weld chromoly, good. i originally went with a bolt in bar though and am now getting it welded in. it really depends i guess on whether or not you'd plan on selling the car down the road. a roll bar may deter alot of buyers.

wolfe has that sale going on though. i bought a 6 point with swing outs and harness submarine brackets and ended up with around 150ish off. basically free shipping. it would have been less of a discount and costed me more money if i didn't get the brackets the fitment is great on these bars though and very easy to install. make sure you have a sharp bit and a good drill if you go that route!

 

Selling the car is not an option. Having someone weld the cm is not an issue either. And yes I have priced some of Wolfe's stuff and it is cheaper to get more options. What was your turn around time on your order?

 

If you want a weld in, I would recommend getting the entire bar done locally. You need to factor the cost of a premade bar, shipping ($100-$150) and the additional cost of welding and compare it to the local shop (if possible).

I would also consider the speaker option for the rear bars and driver side swing out if you street drive at all. The TA already has poor rear view mirror visibility, adding a roll bar will make it worse with just the top bar, let alone having two bars that mount right above the tank. My .02

FWIW - I bought a Wolfe CM 5-pt bolt in with driver side swing and installed it myself. The swing out bar is removed for street driving.

 

Depends on the time if year. Mine took almost 2 months, but that was a couple of years ago. I would give them a call before you order.

 

Made up my mind on a Midwest 6 point cm weld in with option of 8/10 point add on later. Price is so low I will not even list on here. Local shop did a vette not too long ago and cost $1800.

 

I will not go thru the speakers cause that is just not doing anything, there isn't any structure in the wheel wells no matter what wolfe or anyone else says.

 

I recieved my wolfe 6pt bolt a few months ago, and it took right around a month from the time I ordered it.

 

Don't forget to consider the fitment of the main hoop (and roof halo bar if going with a cage). I have seen some pre-made kits that just sit too low in the roof area. I prefer the bars to be high and tight.

 

6 weeks for my wolfe order

 

I thought I read somewhere that "technically" speaking, in order to be NHRA legal, the rear bars have to be lined up directly over the frame rail. In other words, going through the speaker locations are not "technically" legal. Probably not an issue 99% of the time, but if you get a strict tech inspector it could be an issue for those that have the bars through the speaker locations.

Mike