Skinny

iTrader: (11)

I've had a tubular k-member and A-arms sitting around for about 5 years and I'm finally getting ready to install it. I have a few questions regarding the alignment.

The A-arm mounts on the K-member are fixed, not slotted like the factory k-member or most of the other aftermarkets I've seen. That means that the only way to make alignment adjustments is to physically remove the arm from the mount and lengthen or shorten the rod end on either side. I'm obviously not going to take this to the local tire shop for an alignment. I could do it myself, but I'm still working on putting that alignment rack in my garage.

What are people doing for alignments in these situations? Or would it be worth it for me to just cut the brackets off and weld some slotted ones on?

Also, what's good to aim for as far as the alignment specs? This is a drag car that sees very, very limited street time.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

sounds like you have a nice drag setup.

You could do that, but also know some guys have troble with the arms moving on the slots form wheelies ect. I know some that have to put a little spot weld on the bolt washer to keep them from moving. You might want to keep the "fixed" tabs you have and just spend they extra time making the changes with the rod ends.

what parts are these BTW?

Skinny

iTrader: (11)

Heh, just to show how long these have been sitting around.... these are ARE parts

MADMAN

iTrader: (4)

DONT slot them. If they are true ARE parts then you have good stuff. Put them on and get it aligned.

Skinny

iTrader: (11)

They are definitely true ARE parts. I just wonder now how much I'm going to have to bribe one of my former co-workers to align it for me.

Madman, I did some searching for alignment specs and found one thread from a while back where you recommended 0 camber, as much caster as possible, and no toe-out throughout the suspension travel. Is that still a standing recommendation?

MADMAN

iTrader: (4)

Thats correct.

Josh@KY-Turbo

iTrader: (120)

The fixed posistion setups you are refreing to is a bit of a opain to setup, but an over all better design.

I just order my entire suspension from Chuck and Burkhart Chassis. All the A-Arm mounting points on the k-member I am getting are fixed posistion. It definatley makes for a more robust setup.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

The parts I got from burkhart are also fixed location. It's gonna take a while to get it right, but it's the best way, like mentioned above by studderin, everyone I know with a BMR k member ended up putting a washer on over the slotted parts, and tacking it to the k member becasue the things kept shifting them, especially after any kind of a wheelie.


I wasn't aware ARE even made that stuff... you must have gotten that stuff a LONG time ago, they've been gone for quite some time.

Post some pic's of it up, I'd be intrested to see what it looks like.

Skinny

iTrader: (11)

These parts were purchased by a friend of mine along with a motor from ARE about 8 years ago. We decided not to use the k-member in the street car that the motor was going into, so it sat for a short time, then I got it. Then it sat for a long time.

Weights, if interested (without bolts, ball joints, etc): K-member: 20lbs , 1 A-arm: 5lbs

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Parts look good. A little sanding and a coat of paint and you'd never know they weren't built yesterday.

Light looking too.. I like it.

I don't have the weight's handy on my burkhart stuff, but it's not a ton different in design. No motor mount provisions on my stuff.... have to use a motor plate with this.

But, that's probably also lighter, so it's all good