twistin problem
twistin problem My ta is twisting to the passenger side very bad at launch. The car actually sits about a inch lower on the pass. side. What kind i do to fix this. The car does not have sfc on yet. Ive already bought some umi sfc. Just havent had time to put them on yet. Ive got adj. phb, adj. rear shocks, and non adjustable lca's. I will try and post a picture of launch. thanks
Some lower control arm relocation brackets and a drag bag on the right rear for a street car. If it's mostly used for racing you may want to put a drag sway bar instead of the air bag. It would also do you some good to install the subframe connectors. What springs are on the car now? That thing is doing some serious squatting.
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KC is that joe van o's car? Jesus what did he do try running it with no swaybar at all? That's the most twisted I've ever seen a 4th gen car leave.
Drag bar ftw. IMO, to get a car down the 1320 right, that is the first suspension mod I would do, even before anything else... after that start with the control arms, relocation brackets, tq arm, phb, shocks springs etc.
Drag bar ftw. IMO, to get a car down the 1320 right, that is the first suspension mod I would do, even before anything else... after that start with the control arms, relocation brackets, tq arm, phb, shocks springs etc.
I can get you a Wolfe single anti-roll (rear sway bar). The Wolfe piece is a real nice product, since it all welds on. You'll never have to worry about it moving on the rear end, which i have seen recently on other rear sway bars. If you're interested, please call me at the shop. Our number is 225-673-3533
Here is a link to the Wolfe anti-roll in our online catalog:
http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...spx?itemid=103
Here is a link to the Wolfe anti-roll in our online catalog:
http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...spx?itemid=103
My experience.. Installing connectors, etc, on a bent chassis = connectors installed incorrectly....
I'd suggest you have the chassis straightened on a frame machine, then install your parts.
Locking a twist in a chassis, then trying to tune it, is like a "monkey phuckin a football". Nothing good will come of it.
Furthermore, if you are making enuf power to twist it, it needs a 6 pt rollbar, at minimum. Frame connectors will help, as will an antiroll bar. The 6 pt will really tighten things up, and make the car much easier to drive/tune.
BTDT...The Buick in the sig had bags, stock rear sway, 6 pt. Still was a "handful" @140. I added the HR PARTS antiroll, ditched the bags, and the stock rear sway.. Whole new car!
But then, it is "only" a 6 banger...
I'd suggest you have the chassis straightened on a frame machine, then install your parts.
Locking a twist in a chassis, then trying to tune it, is like a "monkey phuckin a football". Nothing good will come of it.
Furthermore, if you are making enuf power to twist it, it needs a 6 pt rollbar, at minimum. Frame connectors will help, as will an antiroll bar. The 6 pt will really tighten things up, and make the car much easier to drive/tune.
BTDT...The Buick in the sig had bags, stock rear sway, 6 pt. Still was a "handful" @140. I added the HR PARTS antiroll, ditched the bags, and the stock rear sway.. Whole new car!
But then, it is "only" a 6 banger...
Last edited by Old Geezer; Jan 15, 2010 at 07:57 AM.
OP: is the car actually twisting, or is it just rolling over? Old Geezer brings up a good point, you need to make sure the chassis is strait too, before welding anything in.
I'm hoping you have frame connectors and whatnot on the car already so that there's no issues there, and I'm hoping that there's already the needed safety stuff in the car, and that you problem is just suspension related.
I'm hoping you have frame connectors and whatnot on the car already so that there's no issues there, and I'm hoping that there's already the needed safety stuff in the car, and that you problem is just suspension related.
Looks like a hoosier radial. Small one too by the 2nd picture...and it looks like it's on a 16 or 17 inch rim. Certainly not the same setup from the first picture, that looks like a 15 inch/28 inch slick combo.
I have personally seen a car when put on jackstands, being it a level floor, actually teetering where we thought it was unsafe. We had to shim it before working on it.
Permanent Chassis Flex FTL!!
I put on SFC's (finally) and a UMI Drag Bar and the car responded very well. I hope to get a good picture of a hit off the line and see the diff!
Permanent Chassis Flex FTL!!
I put on SFC's (finally) and a UMI Drag Bar and the car responded very well. I hope to get a good picture of a hit off the line and see the diff!