Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Kurt is putting together the ignition for the shop car. I thought I would share a few pics. This looks great so far. I can't wait to get the parts and get them installed.

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

Looks killer. Thanks for reminding me that I need to get my lottery tickets for tomorrow night.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

That's a neat setup, I like that alot.

I am curious, why noone really uses the GM distributor setup? Does it not work as well as the belt driven ones, is there an issue with it? I was cinsidering taking this route when I put the BS3 in the car... but i haven't been able to get so solid answer as to what the benefit is of one vs the other.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Kurt's setup can also support a belt drive fuel pump, has a lower profile, and costs are not that far out of line with the GM setup.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Makes sense. I wasn't thinking of the belt drive fuel pump... nitrous cars are too slow to need that much fuel pump

We just run one A1000 for the EFI and carb style BG for the nitrous systems, with a couple cheapo holley regulators


Sounds like from a functioning standpoint, that the GM setup will work fine though?

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

As long as you are willing to deal with all your ford friends telling you that you had to switch to a ford distributor for your car to perform better.

minytrker

iTrader: (13)

Whats the benifit of switching over to a distributor?

SMITH

iTrader: (3)

Thats the same setup I just got from Kurt for my car. Its a very nice piece.

kmracer

iTrader: (1)

i'd rather do something like this VS the GM setup too, the GM setup looks bulky.

TwnTrboCE

iTrader: (43)

Some cars have issues with high rpm missfires while using the stock coils.

You all are welcome because I'm the one who had Kurt build these. Kurt

We were chasing a backfire issue last year and this fixed it. The first one he did kept my stock waterpump in the stock location. With the dist right above it. You can't do this with the GM version. It moves the waterpump way off the motor. So if clearance in the front is and issue... The 2nd one he did for me added a fuel pump where the waterpump was. Works perfect and everything fits behind where the stock waterpump used to be. As you can see on my build that was important.

427

iTrader: (3)

GM drive (Wegner) and the Jesel drive are very nice solutions for many people, mine just fits different needs.
The GM one is cool because it has a 8X signal included so you don't need any type of additional trigger. Also has provision for carb style fuel pump, nice for roundy round type racing. Best solution for this type car. Will allow the use of "digital" ignition box for timing slew on small tire cars.
The Jesel one is very nice and can fit behind a factory water pump. You need a Jesel belt for this set-up which means aftermarket dry sump is required. Side benefit is sync pulse is available as an option so injector phasing and individual timing is possible.
KUP belt gives the option of keeping the stock oiling system in place, including the LS7 style dry sump or any of the wet sump systems. Keeps stock water pump if you like, or dist mount bracket is machined for o-ring type AN adapters for aftermarket remote pumps. Has option of 2500hp plus mechanical fuel pump, this option cannot be used with the stock water pump as it would space it way off the front cover. Uses any popular timing chain drive.
All the systems offer the ability to run "digital" ignition controls, handy devices in limited tire racing for traction help/power control.
Mike had a misfire that we could not find last year and drove us to come up with a solution. Mike uses the factory oiling system for the LS7, so either of the other dist options could not be used unless his oiling system was changed. This was what drove the need for another dist solution for the LS series of engine.

Kurt

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Kurt, if you're using a BS3, and the GM distributor setup, individual cyl. timing can still be done yes?

427

iTrader: (3)

Individual fuel can be done, but injector phasing and individual timing can't be done as installed. You could probably come up with a solution on that system, but you would need a cam reference so the ECU could id cylinder #1 when running to know which cylinder to remove timing from.
The other option would be the digital ignition box from MSD with the optional cam sync that works off a plug wire probe.

Kurt

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Interesting. Does the crank trigger used have any effect on this? I was planning on swapping over to a front mounted flying magnet type crank trigger when I put a BS3 in the car, the distributor was something I was considering...

When I'm ready to start collecting parts, I'll have to give ya a call.

427

iTrader: (3)

Crank reference is better with the 4X on the crankshaft itself, but won't solve the problem. You could take the dist on the Wegner deal and remove all the teeth off the reluctor except cylinder one, then use this for your cam sync pulse with the 4x on the crank supplying the crank signal. The problem with this is the cam sync needs to happen between 75 and 60 degrees before number one cylinder, once you turn the dist to get this right the rotor phasing could be wrong. If MSD offers a sliding rotor for this dist, that could solve that problem. MSD may also offer a dual sync dist for the Ford, that would be a solution also with the Wegner drive.
My system uses a magnet sunk in the upper timing gear that is referenced by a MSD sensor mounted in the factory LS2 sensor hole. This works along with the 4X on the crank to give you all the information the ECU needs for everything to function.

Kurt

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You're selling me already

I'll give ya a ring when I'm ready to start buying parts... you've got a really good handle on this stuff, better then anyone and I'm sure you can set me up with what I need to get where I want to be (individual cyl timing for a nitrous setup, in an effort to try to keep it alive as best as possible)

I also have some other off the wall questions about possible ways to stop the corner cyl's from running hot, not sure if you've tried it.

427

iTrader: (3)

I have re-directed water on the rear cylinders to help with some of those issues. Oilers on the pistons will reduce piston temperature and should give you the ability to run more "gas" at leaner A/F values before making ashtrays . The oilers should slow down the softening of the piston a bunch also, which should allow the engine to run harder for more laps between rebuilds.

Kurt

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I see you're already tried what I was thinking.

Wanna rebuild a 402?

427

iTrader: (3)

I am not a sponsor on this sight, so I would have to say no

Kurt

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Not according to your title... shoot me a PM