Pictures of my winter Race car complete re-wiring project
02-23-2010, 06:58 PM
#21
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Some where in the Corn Fields of Illinois
Posts: 821
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It would be a sticky if I can get one. I'd like to see how to wire the doors so you can ditch the body control module 100%, I'm ditching the power lock solenoids when I have the doors apart so I don't care if the fob works anymore. Same with the alarm, and I'm going to put a BS3 in with it's own harness, so that's done, just need one for the car, how to wire up the BS3 to it, and that's about it. I think I can figure the rest out, my setup is really simple, I'm just going to add a window switch to the nitrous engagement, and maybe wire in a progressor to get the 1 big kit to leave, and that's it.
I used Crosslinked SXL wire, in 8, 10, 12, 14 and 16 gauge.
Try looking at a rats nest of wires and tell me if it looks confusing. I know what everything is on that board, and so would someone else if they purchased it as I've got a complete printout/schematic that shows what EVERYTHING is and where it goes or comes from.
02-23-2010, 08:07 PM
#23
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Some where in the Corn Fields of Illinois
Posts: 821
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can have the dash out of my car in a matter of 5 minutes or less anyway. But the reason for mounting the relay/fuse panel where did is so that I can remove the radio area switch panel an reach back there to change a fuse or check a relay. Easily accessed through the radio hole.
02-23-2010, 10:13 PM
#25
looks nice. man thats a lot of terminal blocks. haha. You can get the windows to work with out the big body control module. I just did this. Used the factory black box module for the windows and hooked up the factory ground and if i remember correctly the orange power wire. works great. Only thing i kept in the car was the windows, mirrors, and running lights.
02-23-2010, 10:23 PM
#26
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Some where in the Corn Fields of Illinois
Posts: 821
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
looks nice. man thats a lot of terminal blocks. haha. You can get the windows to work with out the big body control module. I just did this. Used the factory black box module for the windows and hooked up the factory ground and if i remember correctly the orange power wire. works great. Only thing i kept in the car was the windows, mirrors, and running lights.
Thats correct. When I said 20-25 wires is when someone takes and cuts out the factory harness and only leaves the wires sticking out of the door. Thats when its alot harder to get going..haha.
02-23-2010, 10:30 PM
#27
I got ya. Yea forget trying to redo all that. No sense reinventing the wheel.
Again you did a nice job. I've wired a few race cars myself. Thats when my OCD realy shows up. Im like you and have to have all the wires dead straight and not twisted. That drives me nuts seeing wires twisted. I have problems.....
Again you did a nice job. I've wired a few race cars myself. Thats when my OCD realy shows up. Im like you and have to have all the wires dead straight and not twisted. That drives me nuts seeing wires twisted. I have problems.....
02-24-2010, 06:46 AM
#29
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Cecil County Raceway!!!
Posts: 8,484
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you still want windows to go down with the body control module missing, you will be better off to find some manual window doors. The link to a window motor wiring diagram posted by Fireball will not work. The window motors have a special control module that runs the windows. They don't get a straight 12 volts. It appears they either step up the voltage or step it down per the factory wiring schematic. I researched this on a car I wired last fall and experimented with usinig relays and 12 volt signal to the motors. I can 100% guarantee that they don't work with 12 volts. I could wire in the window motor module, but there would be another 20-25 wires to add at least. I've got the PIN outs, but I really didn't want to mess with it at that time.
02-24-2010, 08:55 PM
#34
holy mother of god thats a lot of **** for a race car! What the hell is it all for? lol I need to wire my car and didnt think it would be close to that many wires. Is any of that for the engine harness? or all body related acc. stuff?
For mine i have in my head that the computer is gonna be a stand-alone unit so pulg into the computer, power it and plug it into the engine, done. Then wire headlights, tail lights, break lights and pwr windows and done again.
For mine i have in my head that the computer is gonna be a stand-alone unit so pulg into the computer, power it and plug it into the engine, done. Then wire headlights, tail lights, break lights and pwr windows and done again.
02-24-2010, 09:05 PM
#36
Registered User
iTrader: (125)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
holy mother of god thats a lot of **** for a race car! What the hell is it all for? lol I need to wire my car and didnt think it would be close to that many wires. Is any of that for the engine harness? or all body related acc. stuff?
For mine i have in my head that the computer is gonna be a stand-alone unit so pulg into the computer, power it and plug it into the engine, done. Then wire headlights, tail lights, break lights and pwr windows and done again.
For mine i have in my head that the computer is gonna be a stand-alone unit so pulg into the computer, power it and plug it into the engine, done. Then wire headlights, tail lights, break lights and pwr windows and done again.
02-24-2010, 09:56 PM
#37
Teching In
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gilberts, IL
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you leave the harness going from door to door with the small black box the windows will work with a 12 volt source. The brown is the 12 volt on the driverside plug. The small orange is power mirror. The orange with a black stripe is power locks. If you don't get crazy when you take out the factory harness the windows, locks, and mirrors are very simple.
02-24-2010, 10:31 PM
#40
Teching In
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gilberts, IL
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you use a painless kit the blinkers are easy, you just pin the connector and plug it into the column. The brake lights are a little tricky for a first time guy. you have to use a relay with the factory switch and run your own 12 volt source.