SMKN TA 95

iTrader: (46)

Believe it or not, there isn't as many wires as you might think. The big bundle of wires coming in from the left side of the board actually has 3 harnesses in it. On bundle is all the relay turn on inputs from the overhead 8 switch panel, the second bundle is the output wires from the relay going out to the driverside of the car, and the third bundle is the relay output wires going to the passenger side of the car. Using these small relay/fuse panels consolidated a LOT of wires into a smaller area, but cleaner.

As for a quick run down of items.... 2 Fuel pumps, water pump, fan, BS3 options and timer enable relay, tach input from BS3, BS3 turn on 12V, BS3 two step, BS3 datalog on, Timing retard input for BS3 boost pins, 2 stages of nitrous, purge setup, custom crank trigger signals into BS3, 2 stage progressive controler, transbrake outputs to solenoid/FJO progressive/2step, parking lights, dash gauges, secondary switch panel for nitrous control and associated gauges, brake lights, automatic hatch open, trans brake, line lock and thats just what I can think of off the top of my head right now.

Theres more to wiring a car than you might think.

SMKN TA 95

iTrader: (46)

The car that I wired before I did mine, had nothing but wire stubs sticking out of the doors. No module or wiring or anything. With the black box intact it would be very easy. Everyone seems to wild with cutting wiring out and that gets disposed of.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Sounds liek about what I will have in my car, but I plan to try to run an nos launcher, the mirrors I don't care if they work, trunk release I don't care since I don't go back ther for anything (bottle in the passenger's seat), I want the running lights turning on with the ign. on circuit, one headlight circuit to turn on the rear night time running lights and the fog lights, I'll wire the reverse lights to come on with the nitrous systems so my guy @ the track knows they're working, and I am aiming to only have one kit on the car, since the consensus is that will remain the rule for the lsx truestreet class for years to come, I will aim to get things done that way.

I have all the black bos and whatnot, and if I "must" keep it I will, but I'd prefer to just do like you had, lop it all out. I'm taking the power mirror's, and leaving them there but I don't need them working, and the power lock solenoids are going in the doors, I don't need that anymore either.

dnkynrbk

iTrader: (34)

Looks sick. Cant wait to see more.

InsaneAuto86

iTrader: (60)

+1 great looking project!

red91z

iTrader: (25)

Awesome. My 3rd gen has a power junction on the driver's side the powers all the accessories. : ) Windows, locks and mirrors.

Not to get off subject but I'm surprised you don't have a dash bar in your cage setup.

Jessie

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Dash bar isn't needed until you go 25.x, an 8.50 cert doesn't have to have one, never a bad idea to have though, it's on my list of things to add when the nose gets finished up just because there's so much being removed out of the front, that it would probably be a good idea to put that there in case the car ever ends up in the wall... I don't want the motor to come visit me.

SMKN TA 95

iTrader: (46)

I'm adding one before the dash goes back in

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

Where did you buy the relay banks from?

I couldn't find them on digikey or newark

87Lt1Monte

iTrader: (1)

Haha im one of those idiots that stripped the car and threw EVERYTHING away. What did you do to to get those windows working again? I used 12v's to move my windows up and down for the chassis guy, but you said just a basic relay would not work? What else could i use?

spaulding

iTrader: (1)

looks very nice man great work ill have to throw up sum pics of mine its right along the same lines as that with the dist. blocks and quick connects makes workin on the car much more pleasurable for sure...but not as pretty as that i thought i was doin good till i saw this thread looks mint just like the rest of your car i love that thing its uber clean ...the windows ive got workin with just 12 volts and a uses the factory switches tied together to swap the power/ground and they work just like factory but with out the bcm and auto down ill see if i can pop the switches out and put together a wiring diagram to share along with a few other lil tricks ive come up with when wiring up the car

87Lt1Monte

iTrader: (1)

Also what kind of wire ends did you use? Uninsulated or insulated? Is there any nice but not very exspensive kits out there?

lt1camaroman93

iTrader: (7)

What will you charge me to come wire up my car??? lol

lt1camaroman93

iTrader: (7)

Would you mind sharing where you got all the wire, connectors, and dist centers? I've had a hard time finding NICE stuff to use.

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

www.waytekwire.com

Should be on the front page.

SMKN TA 95

iTrader: (46)

Here are some updated pictures of the interior now that its back together. I also made a new switch panel for the radio/ac area out of carbon sheet and some nice rocker switches.

I also included a few pics of the back of the relay boards.

SMKN TA 95

iTrader: (46)

Here are some new pictures of the engine etc after the initial assembly and startup on sunday. Car is basically done waiting on a kmember setup.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Looks great man! .....couple of q's

Whats the big can for in front of the engine? Dry sump oiling?
Why so many fuel regulators?
Who made the valve covers?
Specs on engine setup?
Goals?

FRUSTRATED T/A

iTrader: (13)

I love it, reminds me of wiring boards back in school where wires could never cross each other on top of a board.
Rewired mine to a stand alone using one box from the engine bay but looks nowhere nere this nice, though i only spent money on soldering. thing i will redo mine now.

fenton06

iTrader: (1)

1 - That is my guess, but don't hold me to it!

2 - One for each stage of nitrous plus the fuel injection

Hopefully he can help you out with the rest!