Race Gas - Need Advice
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TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
Race Gas - Need Advice My car is finally getting trailer to the track from now on, and I want to switch over from pump gas, to race gas.
I'm going to spray the car this year, 150 shot to start off, and go from there. Everything will be dynotuned before, with whatever gas I pick.
My buddy buys enough VP Racing fuels that he gets a good deal, and the VP100, unleaded, oxygenated 95-100 octane, is about the same price as their Motorsports-109, which has a higher octane, around 105
I'm mainly going to this because it'll give me some piece of mind with avoiding detonation and I can run more timing.
What do you guys think? I don't race THAT much, so the price of the gas isn't overly concerning.
He also threw out that I should consider C12, which IS leaded, but he said he used to run the tank dry after the races, then run some pump gas to clean the O2 sensors out a bit.
C12 was just a tad more in price, but had a lot higher octane rating.
What do you guys all think?
Also, I figured on just using the stock fuel tank?? Instead of messing around with a fuel cell, or standalone system, etc.
I'm going to spray the car this year, 150 shot to start off, and go from there. Everything will be dynotuned before, with whatever gas I pick.
My buddy buys enough VP Racing fuels that he gets a good deal, and the VP100, unleaded, oxygenated 95-100 octane, is about the same price as their Motorsports-109, which has a higher octane, around 105
I'm mainly going to this because it'll give me some piece of mind with avoiding detonation and I can run more timing.
What do you guys think? I don't race THAT much, so the price of the gas isn't overly concerning.
He also threw out that I should consider C12, which IS leaded, but he said he used to run the tank dry after the races, then run some pump gas to clean the O2 sensors out a bit.
C12 was just a tad more in price, but had a lot higher octane rating.
What do you guys all think?
Also, I figured on just using the stock fuel tank?? Instead of messing around with a fuel cell, or standalone system, etc.
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
I'm not sure what my compression is, stock motor but Texas Speed Majic Stick 3 cam
The 103-105 octane mixed with 93 is all you need. Sprayed many 175 shots in the Texas heat with this mix. I would not run the leaded fuel if you still have cats and O2 sensors. The 112 is too much for the stock comp. It will cost you hp.
^^^This^^^ You want to run the lowest octane fuel you can that will prevent detonation. The higher the octane rating the slower the fuel will burn at the same compression ratio. If you run more octane than you need to control pre-ignition, you leave power on the table.
7 Second Club
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
As mentioned above, run the keast octane you need. Unless the heads are shaved, your compression won't change with a cam swap. Why can't you tune it for the spray and pump gas (just a suggestion, I'm running 9s on pump swill).
Derek
Derek
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TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
I was going to tune for just pump gas (93) out of the tank, but now that it's trailered, I figured a couple more octane points isn't going to hurt me
VP Racing Fuels:
VP100 - "actual" motor octane is 95
Motorsports-109 - "actual" motor octane is 101 - this is what I'm thinking of running. If worse comes to worse, I mix the Motorsports-109 with the 93.
I'm not going to be going through barrels of it by any mean.
Here is from VP Racing - does it seem like TO much?
MotorSport 109™
In engines that can run on pump gas, MS 109 is a direct replacement that produces up to 5% more than premium unleaded. Recommended for higher boost applications with CRs up to 11:1 or naturally aspirated engines up to 13:1. Excellent in crate engine applications.
TYPICAL VALUES
• Color: Clear
• Motor Octane 101
• Research Octane: 109
• R+M/2: 105
• Specific Gravity: .722 at 60° F
VP Racing Fuels:
VP100 - "actual" motor octane is 95
Motorsports-109 - "actual" motor octane is 101 - this is what I'm thinking of running. If worse comes to worse, I mix the Motorsports-109 with the 93.
I'm not going to be going through barrels of it by any mean.
Here is from VP Racing - does it seem like TO much?
MotorSport 109™
In engines that can run on pump gas, MS 109 is a direct replacement that produces up to 5% more than premium unleaded. Recommended for higher boost applications with CRs up to 11:1 or naturally aspirated engines up to 13:1. Excellent in crate engine applications.
TYPICAL VALUES
• Color: Clear
• Motor Octane 101
• Research Octane: 109
• R+M/2: 105
• Specific Gravity: .722 at 60° F
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if you're spraying, i'd consider a dedicated fuel system. it'll cost you about 150 bucks to set up, but its well worth it. run a 3 callon cell, a holley blue, -6, and a holley 12-803 reg.
you'll use one gallon every 10-20 passes, comared to 5 gallons a night. just run pump gas in the stock tank.
idk what kinda fuel system you have right now, but its well worth it. it pays for itself.
you'll use one gallon every 10-20 passes, comared to 5 gallons a night. just run pump gas in the stock tank.
idk what kinda fuel system you have right now, but its well worth it. it pays for itself.
Last edited by kmracer; Mar 14, 2010 at 03:40 PM.
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TECH Junkie
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From: Sandusky, Ohio
If you're going race only, I'd look at putting a 3 gallon cell in the nose, ditch teh stock tank, so your fuel level is alot less, and it will remain alot fresher in the tank, (provided the supply is)
Next, tune the car with all the O2's off in open loop, so now you have no O2 sensors to worry about, simple and effective way to deal with that.
#rd, you don't need a ton of octane, but I would run a leaded fuel, just because they're generally more consistant. Stay away from oxygenated fuel, they tend to go bad quickly, and after the problems I have seen people having with Q16 I wouldn't put that **** in my lawnmower.
So, open loop tune, 100 to 110 or whatever you can get in that range that's leaded, and ditch the stock tank and put a small cell in the nose. Run your standalone pump off that too if you have one, so that way you only have one fuel supply to deal with.
Less fuel = less fire too, if you ever had that disaster occur. 3 gallons is alot less fire then 12 gallons or whatever you'd put in the stock tank would be.
Next, tune the car with all the O2's off in open loop, so now you have no O2 sensors to worry about, simple and effective way to deal with that.
#rd, you don't need a ton of octane, but I would run a leaded fuel, just because they're generally more consistant. Stay away from oxygenated fuel, they tend to go bad quickly, and after the problems I have seen people having with Q16 I wouldn't put that **** in my lawnmower.
So, open loop tune, 100 to 110 or whatever you can get in that range that's leaded, and ditch the stock tank and put a small cell in the nose. Run your standalone pump off that too if you have one, so that way you only have one fuel supply to deal with.
Less fuel = less fire too, if you ever had that disaster occur. 3 gallons is alot less fire then 12 gallons or whatever you'd put in the stock tank would be.
