What have you guys been using for the lap belt install on your 5 point harnesses?

The Search most drilling out the tabs for stock hardware but has anyone gone to an eyebolt setup?

What have you seen that works best or doesn't work well at all?

Thanks,

~Jim~

 

Using the stock mounts as I think most are.

 

yep thats how mine are right not..im not running my shoulder belts because i have no cage in the car right now so i aint figured out what to do with them yet..

my submarine belt i took a piece of angle iron and cut it to lenght i needed and then on 1 side i drilled out out so i could bolt it to my seat bolts and then drilled out the center on the part sticking straight up and mounted that belt there..its like the wolfe or burkhart tube ones just it cost me 15$ instead of 180$

 

Did you drill out the harness clip or did you use other hardware in the stock hole?

~Jim~

 

chvypwr31 made me tabs for mine. Worked much better (and they are legal), unlike the stock belt mounting locations.

 

i made a drivers set and im workin on a passenger side set for matt here if anyone wants a set pm me or call me 224-828-4308. -tony-

 

My harnesses are on the way do you have any pictures of your brackets? I may be interested.

 

ditto, same here

 

After POR-15:

 

Those look good.

To bad I have everything in the car already. Belts are the absolute last thing that needs to go in.

~Jim~

 

jegs sells angled and 90 degree threw bolt tabs that can bolt into the floor using a backing plate and then you just bolt your belts to the 90 or 60 with grade 8 bolts..the taps you want are for the directional pull would be in a wreck..so rears you want 60s and lap an sub belts you want 90s..

 

We use a die grinder to open up the tabs on the seat belts, then use the stock seat belt bolt/bolt holes. Nothing illegal about it, and works just as well as anything else. Plus you don't have to spend any money buying brackets/tabs.

 

thanks for putting the pictures up matt. anyone interested just pm me. -tony-

 

From what I have read, the belts need to pull 180* straight from their mounting points. Using the stock belt holes, the belts are pulling at a 90* angle. I know most tracks overlook this but I'm just throwing it out there.

Also, It is a hell of a lot easier to change belts using a 3/8" bolt than the torx bolt of the stock belts.

 

yea and i would rather have the belt mounting points inline with the belts so its a straight pull even though mounting it straight to the floor is fine and nothing wrong with that i would just rather do it the way shown. -tony-

 

insane, that is correct. Some tracks will overlook, it but I had them added when I upgraded my roll bar to a full cage.

Derek

 

I use the stock holes/bolts as well.
I don't see how mounting at 180* makes much of a difference, but rules are rules.
I'll look into fixing that this summer.

 

You mount the tab at 90 degrees, the tab can bend at the angle of the belt force and now creates a loose area that was tight at one point.

You mount at 180 degrees, no place to bend, no air gap thus you stay in the seat.

Just my $.02.

Derek

 

Good point. I'd be interested to see how much force is needed to bend that
tab VS what the same amount of force would do to that threaded mount.

Either way, when I do it, the mount will be at the correct angle and welded.
I like the idea of staying secure in my seat if the roof is about to come crushing in on me.