2" KOOKS header users, i have a question
2" KOOKS header users, i have a question im about to put in my headers (2" kooks) and im lookin at the steering shaft and it almost looks as if the drivers side isnt gonna fit. Do i need to buy a aftermarket shaft because it extends further out or no? Just looks really tight in that section. Anyone using these headers with a standard rack and shaft?
My headers were actually cut and a new bend was welded in. You could dimple the headers a bit in that spot. Make sure you use a good size dowel to hit it and heating the header pipe a bit will make it easier as well.
I had to make my steering shaft for my 1 7/8 stepped to 2 inch with the burkhart front end... that's typical that the #1 doesn't clear for ****... header design is wrong, teh tube needed to be wrapped in towards the block and strait down first, the ones that Tektrans had I saw the issue with those, and belive me there was NO WAY they were going on the car without having done what was done to them.
I made the steering shaft work, I hard to extend it down off the column from the "D" stock piece about 1/75 inches, to the point that I'm about 5 to 8 degrees from binding up the u joint, then shorten the main shaft length that attaches to the lower U joint.
Just the way it is. You'd think for the $$ you spend on them they would fit.
I made the steering shaft work, I hard to extend it down off the column from the "D" stock piece about 1/75 inches, to the point that I'm about 5 to 8 degrees from binding up the u joint, then shorten the main shaft length that attaches to the lower U joint.
Just the way it is. You'd think for the $$ you spend on them they would fit.
hummm, doesnt sound good! Only hope i have is i bought mine used from Josh@kentuckyturbo who bought them off another board member on here and they dont have any dings or dents in them. So apparently they fit in the car they came out of but dont know what he did with the shaft, if anything?
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From: Buffalo
When I put bigger headers on my sbc the rag joint was hitting #1 tube. I used solid mounts to prevent movement and bought some D stock to eliminate the rag joint and used a flaming river U joint. Here is a pic to give you an idea
Last edited by Vortec355; Apr 19, 2010 at 12:54 AM. Reason: pic issue
My 2" Kooks hit the aftermarket shaft to my manual rack. I too thought "for this kind of money, you would think they could make them fit perfect". I had to take a hammer to the primary. Sucks I had to do that.
Exactly.
The #1 primary isn't routed right... end of story. It could have been done to mke a ton more room... but it wasn't
I redid the steering shaft rather then bang the header, or have it refabbed... simply becasue if I want to swap to something else one day I wanted enough room so I wouldn't have to worry about it.
I'm most likly going to go with the DR lsx head anyway when they become available, that being said I'll have to have them made due to the ports being in a different place. Better off that way I think, at least this way I can have the headers made so they will clear (and probably in a BIG primary size, like 2 1/4 with a 5 inch collector)
The #1 primary isn't routed right... end of story. It could have been done to mke a ton more room... but it wasn't
I redid the steering shaft rather then bang the header, or have it refabbed... simply becasue if I want to swap to something else one day I wanted enough room so I wouldn't have to worry about it.
I'm most likly going to go with the DR lsx head anyway when they become available, that being said I'll have to have them made due to the ports being in a different place. Better off that way I think, at least this way I can have the headers made so they will clear (and probably in a BIG primary size, like 2 1/4 with a 5 inch collector)
you can unbolt the column at the firewall, ream the holes out a little, and reinstall it to gain some clearance. also, ls1 shafts have a smaller profile. they incorporate the rag joint in the rack too IIRC.
The aftermarket setup I have in the car now if anything should have made more room, the factory steering shaft was about 1/32 away from the shaft, aftermarket one that's smaller diameter was hitting it....
End of the day, that #1 needs to be moved.
End of the day, that #1 needs to be moved.
We have had them on 3 different cars and all 3 fit without any modification.
You start changing Kmembers , racks and steering shafts and then the headers dont fit. How do you know its not your Kmember thats off by 1/4 which would make them hit.
After seeing how much eastside had to notch the #1 on theirs (which are the ones taht tektrans now has, and that was needed to get his steering shaft to clear as well as eastside's car) and now the clearance issue I had with mine with a totally different setup.. it leads me to believe the routing on the #1 primary is the issue.
It could easily be brought strait down and curve towards the block then back towards the other 3 primaries, creating a TON more room.
It could easily be brought strait down and curve towards the block then back towards the other 3 primaries, creating a TON more room.
Damn, has anyone told kooks about maby doin it differently? I'm gonna see who had mine before and see what, if anything, he did. Like I said mine were already used on a car and they haven't been modded any. *head scratcher*
I bought them right when they came out. On my camaro with a BMR k member and manual rack the driver header was no where close to clearing the steering shaft. Kooks blamed everything but there header design. I tried them in two differnt cars both with BMR k members and they wouldnt fit either one. Since they wouldnt take them back I ended up making a new steering shaft to go around the headers.