I recently bought a 2002 Z-28 with 6 speed transmission. I have stock suspension and C5 ZO6 wheels with Firestone Firehawk Wide Oval tires. It's essentially a full bolt on car.

This is my first 6 speed RWD V8 sports car. I've owned several automatics in the past, and have driven a few manual transmission RWD cars before - none that I ever drove real hard, as they weren't my cars.

When I would take off from a standstill in my auto cars, I would just mash the gas and could pretty much just sit there and roast the tires, even on less powerful cars than I have now. I would lay off the throttle slightly when launching to try to prevent the tires from spinning for maximum traction if needed.

I don't have a lot of experience launching a manual transmission V8 RWD car, and it's not something I make practice of doing on the street too often. If I quickly shift into first, releasing the clutch, and mash the throttle at the same time, it feels like it takes time to build power. It'll start spinning the tires a little but it's not the same as it would be if I launched full throttle in an automatic - I don't know if that's just kind of a difference between the two, or I'm getting a lot better traction after swapping to the new wheels/tires, or what.

When you launch at the drag strip do you typically rev it to a certain RPM, dump the clutch, and go from there? I'm sure these are some real newb questions, but I guess I'm clueless here!

 

It's ok, we all got to start somewhere.

Welcome to the world of the Manually Driven Racecar.

Going over some basic info, the reason why your having an issue with the manual is that there is some things that you do not have compared to the Auto.

-Superior TQ Multiplcation
-Converter Slip
-Driver Skill
-Suspension Requirements.

I know there is more BUT, here is a good start.

TQ Multiplication is essentially taking your TQ # at a specific Launch RPM and then multiplying the 1st gear ratio and the Final Drive (rear gear) ratio and you can figure out to the tire how much Torque is being applied at Launch.

Essentially IF taking the same car and applying the same HP/TQ #'s across the power band, if you could get the auto to do a high RPM hit, it should have the same traction issues as you do. BUT most times the converter only allows for so much rpm, and coupled with a different 1st gear ratio and softer rear gear, they get a optinum hit most time. Thats why on average they are so consistant. You can vary launch RPM and clutch release but you end up with a Bog/Spin situation as you need to leave at a High RPM but your tire/suspension/gearing is NOT correct.

http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=708 (this is for FWD but the theroy is sound)

With converter slip, like mentioned before. The converter makes up much for driver error as unless your a guy who has raced the same exact car 1000x over, you will not have a consistant proceedure for racing and having too much or too little rpm, improper clutch release, in the end Bog/Slip scenario occurs again.

Automatic cars require SOME skill, but in the end, getting better at driving and know what the car can and CANNOT do is essential to racing. LEARN THE CAR!!

Lastly Suspension requirements for Auto cars on average are less. I have gone back in the early 2000's on a 383 LT1 car in the bottom 12.00's with ZERO suspension mods on 245/50-16 Nitto's. You try that in a M6 car your going to blow the tires off. So its time to invest in some parts.

Ultimately in the End you have a weak rear and it will break. Start saving money for a 12 bolt or better as YOU WILL NEED TO UPGRADE.

Check this out. You will get the idea. I have since ADDED all the parts and will be out soon racing and giving updated times.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-m...ay-new-pb.html

 

thanks for the info.

if you responded to this point and i didnt comprehend, my apologies, but when i launch should i rev the motor up to a certain rpm, dump the clutch, then handle the throttle as needed? or do i handle the clutch as i normally would with regular street driving when starting in first, by releasing the clutch around idle rpms from a standstill and gradually apply the throttle as needed?

If I do the latter, it obviously feels a lot slower even if I go WOT because Im working from say , 900 Rpm til redline. Maybe Im doing a poor job of describing my question. I dont know. Im not trying to grenade my rear end or clutch by doing a 5k Rpm dump on launch, but I didnt know if holding the Rpms around 2500 or something then releasing the clutch would produce different results.

If I leave it in first and gradually speed up to around 2500-3000 rpms, then go WOT, it really takes off Im assuming due to being in its peak power band. If I would do the same thing but from 1k Rpm, it would obviously take a little while to start pulling real hard. Does that make sense?

 

what i do is bring it up to about 1500 drop the clutch and pedal it your going to spin with out slicks so all you can do is keep it to a minimum worked out pretty well for me!!!

 

You have similar mods to me minus the gears...what were you getting for your quarter mile times?

 

I've been dragging my M6 for the last 10 years. You can dump the clutch at about 3k and be safe but you'll need some drag radials since street tires will just spin. The last thing you want to do is ride the clutch like you may do on the street. You'll end up smoking your trans. Certainly go to WOT as you drop the clutch.

This will all take some practice if this is your first manual car.

After about 8 years, I started to get a leak in my rear end but that could have just been normal (not due to racing). At that point I installed a Moser 12 bolt. (I DON'T RECOMMEND THE MOSIER FOR STREET USE). It's loud as hell.

 

What do you mean?

 

If you aren't able to dump the clutch and hook the best way to launch is keeping your revs up and slip the clutch till you have enough traction to put down full power. Thismakes for good track times but very hard on a clutch.

 

Clutch Slips kills clutches and often one bad shift can end your T-56 6 Speed.

 

I don't Know how to do a burnout in a 6 spd rwd.

 

Nevermind...

 

Ok, Well as far as the whole slipping the clutch deal, this is the best method to get a 6 speed car to hook. yes it burns the clutch out and yes if you miss a shift on good time you can ruin your trans but you gotta pay to play. I know for a FACT that a M6 on a stock suspension w/ street tires will NOT hook on a 3K launch when you dump the clutch. What I did in mine (and had great success) is, Push the clutch in and put it in first, rev it to like 3K or 2.5K and let out on the clutch while feathering the throttle. Yea youre slipping the clutch and all that but like I said you gotta pay to play. Just my .02

 

That's complete mis-information.

 

Not being a jerk but how is that mis-information?

 

kinda +1 with this

the only thing i see that is mis information is saying stock suspension wont hook from a 3K clutch dump...Its not smart, it probably wil not hook with what he has said he had, but with a good set of DRs (dare i say m/t radials) it will hook no problem at all

 

The OP talked about launching, not bogging, or ***** footing it. To launch a near factory weight M6 4th Gen Fbody, it needs to be max effort.

Slipping clutches is not what this post is about, nor is about racing. It's about half assing it and trying to make the set up work the best for you. I understand that not everyone has the endless money pit, I don't either.

But Slipping clutches and doing this type of technique has lead to welded clutches to flywheels, mis-shifts, and damaging hard parts of the T56. Which is BAD advice.

In the end, its up to the driver to decide how much he wishes to push the envelope.

 

First of all if what ever clutch it has won't handle being slipped it ain't worth a ****. Also slipping the clutch will not cause damage to the trans.

If he wants to have a chance at being somewhat fast with the suspension he has, he will have to do it by slipping the clutch.

I used to try and dump the clutch with a stock rear end and suspension and all it did was tear up rear ends. When it did hook it didn't have the rpm to carry it out of the hole and it would fall on it's face.

 

All I can say if any poster wants to beleive that garbage, feel free to. It takes one welded clutch and a hard miss shift to break things and the average person does not have the tools, know-how, or space to rebuild so it's their money, not mine.

 

I could see if the OP had a rear and bias-plies, then yes he would be fine to dump the clutch. I've run on both (I prefer bias-plies), but on street tires or drag radials, you need to slip the clutch. In the OP case, dumping the clutch may be more damaging than a quick slip. Since he's still on stock suspenion and stock rear, he's more prone to breaking something with a clutch dump. One clutch dump for him could take out the rear, the drive shaft, or the torque arm. He also said he was on street tires so theres no way street tires are gonna hold a dump. If he doesnt break, he'll sit there spinning tires while watching a honda pull away from him.

 

this...