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Whats it take to run 7.5 or less in the 1/8th?

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Old 06-22-2010, 12:47 AM
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Default Whats it take to run 7.5 or less in the 1/8th?

Ok so i posted track results a while back with my current setup (370 rwhp mustang dyno). Ran a 8.4 at 88 with a horrible 2.1 60ft. Went back with the et steeets and ran a 2.06 60'... dead hook at 1500 rpm's with stock stall = suck. Also stock stall plus 1-2 shift in the 1/8th mile = suck.

So I have right now ported ls6 heads. ls6 intake, tr220, longtubes, magnaflow.

Im changing to eps 226 234 cam and going to be ordering a 3600 circle d...

So do you think im gonna have enough gumption to hit mid 7's or what else should i be looking at installing. Would 3.73's be worth the time over 3.23's with the stall?

im hoping with the new stall i can get down to a 1.6 60' with the et streets(bias ply) and that should bring me down to a 7.7 7.8 but maybe a little extra power from the cam can get me the 7.5 id be happy with?? hoping!!
Old 06-22-2010, 06:43 AM
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N/A cars need a N/A converter Bump the stall to 4400. 3.73's will help greatly as well. Cutting a good 60 foot is critical for 1/8th mile racing. Cut some weight out too. FYI your really pushing that 10 bolt's life and I suspect your going to be killing that very soon once your in the consistant 1.6's
Old 06-22-2010, 08:18 AM
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My 02 SS a4 is running 7.53 @90 w/ 1.63 60ft on Nitto 555r's.All that is done is LT,off road y-pipe,pully,P&P TB,Yank SS3600,LCA,PHB,Adjustable torque arm,no front swaybar,Weld Pro Stars 4''F & 10''R.No weight reduction and stock cat back,lid,3:23's.I would just do a stall for now and leave the cam for later.
Old 06-22-2010, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by blk/slvr02ss
My 02 SS a4 is running 7.53 @90 w/ 1.63 60ft on Nitto 555r's.All that is done is LT,off road y-pipe,pully,P&P TB,Yank SS3600,LCA,PHB,Adjustable torque arm,no front swaybar,Weld Pro Stars 4''F & 10''R.No weight reduction and stock cat back,lid,3:23's.I would just do a stall for now and leave the cam for later.
What time of year, what D/A, and what do you and the car weight respecitivly. Whats the average the car runs in the "Heat" As I have not raced in FL weather.
Old 06-22-2010, 08:53 AM
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I think with the right stall and traction ,you should be damn close . I went from 8.5 in the 1/8 to 7.9 with my Yank ss4000 stall. Thats with a stock motor and manifolds . I would imagine it would bo even more on a car with a cam and headers . Dont know if the 373s ould help much . Maybe a tenth or so . I only gained .33 tenths in the 1/4 going from 273 to 373 .
Old 06-22-2010, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by FASTEDDIE Z
I only gained .33 tenths in the 1/4 going from 273 to 373 .
For a simple gear change that's a pretty big gain IMO.

Had a friend that picked up 3mph going from the stock stall to a 3200. If the same holds for you I'd say you'd be right there cause your 60' is going to drop as well. Even going down to a 1.7 60' thats 4 tenths. Then add increase in mph with the stall. I'd say 7.50's are very possible.

-Mark
Old 06-22-2010, 09:26 AM
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What is the DA your running at? Seems like you should be able to get a much better 60' with those tires as I was running 8.2 on bald street tires with just full boltons.A stall should get you really close to that time with a better launch. Gears arent worth anything anymore unless your ordering something more than the 10 bolt.
Old 06-22-2010, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Bitemark46
For a simple gear change that's a pretty big gain IMO.


-Mark
I agree ,I was happy . But 323's to 373 in the 1/8 wouldnt be that big of an improvement .
Old 06-22-2010, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
N/A cars need a N/A converter Bump the stall to 4400. 3.73's will help greatly as well. Cutting a good 60 foot is critical for 1/8th mile racing. Cut some weight out too. FYI your really pushing that 10 bolt's life and I suspect your going to be killing that very soon once your in the consistant 1.6's
yep.. I know about the ten bolt... only reason the t56 conversion i have sitting in the garage isnt in the car right now. When i buy a good rear end it will be strong and 4.10 gears cuz im not going to baby a six speed car. I know its dangerous but i figured with the stall and maybe even the bias ply tires the rear should hold for a little bit. 4400 would be a bit high as i daily drive the car as well.

Originally Posted by blk/slvr02ss
My 02 SS a4 is running 7.53 @90 w/ 1.63 60ft on Nitto 555r's.All that is done is LT,off road y-pipe,pully,P&P TB,Yank SS3600,LCA,PHB,Adjustable torque arm,no front swaybar,Weld Pro Stars 4''F & 10''R.No weight reduction and stock cat back,lid,3:23's.I would just do a stall for now and leave the cam for later.
nice times for such simple mods and stock engine. About the cam, i already have the cam and 1518 springs sitting here so might as well install them
. Are the adjustable torque arm and LCA's needed for a 1.6 sixty foot with the et streets?
Originally Posted by Joshiedoom
What is the DA your running at? Seems like you should be able to get a much better 60' with those tires as I was running 8.2 on bald street tires with just full boltons.A stall should get you really close to that time with a better launch. Gears arent worth anything anymore unless your ordering something more than the 10 bolt.
I think the DA that day was in the 2000' range. Car was pushing through the brakes and couldnt launch any higher then 1500 rpm's. bog city
Originally Posted by Bitemark46
Had a friend that picked up 3mph going from the stock stall to a 3200. If the same holds for you I'd say you'd be right there cause your 60' is going to drop as well. Even going down to a 1.7 60' thats 4 tenths. Then add increase in mph with the stall. I'd say 7.50's are very possible.

-Mark
if i could pick up mph with the converter all the better! is this the norm for people who have swapped the converter?

Originally Posted by FASTEDDIE Z
I think with the right stall and traction ,you should be damn close . I went from 8.5 in the 1/8 to 7.9 with my Yank ss4000 stall. Thats with a stock motor and manifolds . I would imagine it would bo even more on a car with a cam and headers . Dont know if the 373s ould help much . Maybe a tenth or so . I only gained .33 tenths in the 1/4 going from 273 to 373 .
thats a good gain hoping to get atleast that and a little bit more

thanks for all the replies so far!
Old 06-22-2010, 04:02 PM
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im full bolt on, M6 with 411s and an MS4 running 7.4-7.7 dependign on my 60'. Im going from high 1.5s-low 1.7s
Old 06-22-2010, 04:11 PM
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Before I deployed(just got back) I was running 7.3x's in decent weather with just a cam and 3600 stall, still on the 10 bolt. I was cutting 1.6x's everytime on the 10 bolt and 245/50/16 nitto 555R, which are a lot worst than M/T's. You will be able to get 7.5's easy with that cam and stall set up. By the way, I never busted my 10 bolt and was cutting 1.6's for over a year before I decided to upgrade the rear end because I added nitrous. Also that was stock 3:23 gears.
Old 06-22-2010, 05:39 PM
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I gained no MPH from the stall, so far but I was running on the stock stall in great DA. Now in the heat and 1500 to 2500 DA. I am running 12.4 in the 1/4 and 7.8 to 7.9 in the 1/8. My stall shaved about 6 tenths off my 1/4 time.

With me in it the car weighs 3,740. My mods are in my sig, most of which are not a big help.
Old 06-22-2010, 06:05 PM
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I would atleast go w/ the LCA.M/T ET Streets work alot better then Nitto's.I have a cam & springs & LS-6 heads sitting around but i am scared of my car getting slower w/ them.Why mess w/ something when its working right.
Old 06-22-2010, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
What time of year, what D/A, and what do you and the car weight respecitivly. Whats the average the car runs in the "Heat" As I have not raced in FL weather.
It was in Feb.@68deg.D/A i dont know.Weight do not know but only weight reduction is Pro Stars & no swaybar and i weigh 190lbs. In the heat it ran 12.0's 7 times in a row.
Old 06-23-2010, 12:40 AM
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A little suspension, a good stall, a gear, and a lot of test and tune will put you where you want to be if not faster. My times are in my sig. Livernois Stage 2 heads, fast 90, Futral custom nitrous cam, stock cubes, stock t/a, and and a stock 10 bolt with 4.10's cuttin 1.4x's a few hundred passes with no problems. And my fastest passes with the new suspension and gear was in july/august heat. (Tore it apart nefore the good weather rolled around!! lol)
Old 06-24-2010, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by second_2_none
Before I deployed(just got back) I was running 7.3x's in decent weather with just a cam and 3600 stall, still on the 10 bolt. I was cutting 1.6x's everytime on the 10 bolt and 245/50/16 nitto 555R, which are a lot worst than M/T's. You will be able to get 7.5's easy with that cam and stall set up. By the way, I never busted my 10 bolt and was cutting 1.6's for over a year before I decided to upgrade the rear end because I added nitrous. Also that was stock 3:23 gears.
first congrats on being back! thats real good times.. id be happy as hell with a 7.3


Appreciate the help from everyone so far. getting ready to order my stall and im thinking i may just go for the circle d 4c 3600-3800 rpm...If i can get some sub 7.5's im gonna be happy.
Old 06-24-2010, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 358chevycamaro
A little suspension, a good stall, a gear, and a lot of test and tune will put you where you want to be if not faster. My times are in my sig. Livernois Stage 2 heads, fast 90, Futral custom nitrous cam, stock cubes, stock t/a, and and a stock 10 bolt with 4.10's cuttin 1.4x's a few hundred passes with no problems. And my fastest passes with the new suspension and gear was in july/august heat. (Tore it apart nefore the good weather rolled around!! lol)
wow what are you running for a cam and intake? the livernois stg 2 is just upgraded valve springs from the stage one correct? nice time regardless
Old 06-25-2010, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by got-a-ls1
wow what are you running for a cam and intake? the livernois stg 2 is just upgraded valve springs from the stage one correct? nice time regardless
According to Livernois' site their Stage I and Stage II heads's do flow the same, and as you said the springs, locks, and retainers seem to be the only difference. I had these heads on a previous motor that scattered and beat them up pretty bad. I took them to my local machine shop and they welded them, polished them out again, put new valves in them, and had them looking like new. In that process I wanted to bump my compression so I had decent bit cut off of them but it's still right around 12:1. (I can't remember the exact combustion chamber size without my receipts now it's been so long but it's in the 50's. lol)

I run a Fast 90 intake with a PTM 90mm throttle body untouched straight out of the box, and as I said a custom grind cam Alan Futral told me that would work great on spray with my setup. 239/242 duration on a 114+4 LSA.

Mine can MPH sometimes really well (best of 99.0 on motor) but your 60' is where you can pick up your times more than anywhere. I ran those times on a 3,500 Fuddle nitrous converter foot braking it to 2000 and shifting it at 7000 and it still wanted to go higher. The right converter and suspension setup will REALLY improve your times. Just be prepared to make pass after pass writing down every detail and analyzing the info that you get to slowly make one small change at a time towards your final goal and your cars max potential.
Old 06-27-2010, 07:07 PM
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awesome thanks bud, thats a nice setup you got there. Do you think the 226 234 cam is even worth it over the tr220 i have now? Or since im getting a stall should i just go BIGGER? Would it be worth it for the 1/8th? I already have the 1518 pac springs but could buy some good doubles.
Old 06-27-2010, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by blk/slvr02ss
I would atleast go w/ the LCA.M/T ET Streets work alot better then Nitto's.I have a cam & springs & LS-6 heads sitting around but i am scared of my car getting slower w/ them.Why mess w/ something when its working right.
if i get lower control arms should i get the relocation brackets as well?


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