which route to take for tires?
which route to take for tires? Right now I have street tires (Cooper Zeon 2XS Tires on zr1 275 40 17) and I was thingking on getting just 2 drag radial nittos (NT05R) for the rear. I figure I can change them out when I get to the track. What do you think? Or should I just go with a slick seeing how I will be changing them when I get to the track anyway?
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
X3 on M/T over the Nittos if you are only going to be using them at the track or very little road use. You will find their grip will work great even as you continue to add more power whereas a Nitto will have a finer line on consistently hooking.
Derek
Derek
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ET Streets Is a Bias Ply type tire that has a DOT approval rating but has more Coreds and is a stiffer Bias Ply.
ET Drags Similar but are track only type tires, much softer side wall and different compounds
ET Street Radials The Drag Radial version with their own unique compound. Very sticky for a radial.
IF you get a ET Street Radial make sure you have line lock. Do not bother tying to power brake the suckers. I do not care how much water you have in the box.
ET Drags Similar but are track only type tires, much softer side wall and different compounds
ET Street Radials The Drag Radial version with their own unique compound. Very sticky for a radial.
IF you get a ET Street Radial make sure you have line lock. Do not bother tying to power brake the suckers. I do not care how much water you have in the box.
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Before I owned my LS1 m6 car I had a 383 LT1 High Comp 1994 Z28
It had a Moser 12 bolt at the time and a Smallish stall (2800 and 3.42 gear ratio)
Now mind you I know a WHOLE lot more now then I did back then.
Going to the track I got them wet in the water and staged to Power Brake Burn to get them ready. The car actually PUSHED through the Brakes, No matter how much I clamped and how much I punched the throttle, it was just STICKING and pushed the car through the line.
Subsequently it bogged off the line due to the stall and gearing issues.
So even in a auto car a Line lock works and is considered QUITE useful.
Another example is recently my Bro took ownership of a pretty done up 1987 Buick Grand National, Making 530 RWHP on Meth and has decent gearing. He cannot brake burnout the tires on the STREET. He tried all he could. He needed the Linelock to do any sort of burnout.
A quick story.
Before I owned my LS1 m6 car I had a 383 LT1 High Comp 1994 Z28
It had a Moser 12 bolt at the time and a Smallish stall (2800 and 3.42 gear ratio)
Now mind you I know a WHOLE lot more now then I did back then.
Going to the track I got them wet in the water and staged to Power Brake Burn to get them ready. The car actually PUSHED through the Brakes, No matter how much I clamped and how much I punched the throttle, it was just STICKING and pushed the car through the line.
Subsequently it bogged off the line due to the stall and gearing issues.
So even in a auto car a Line lock works and is considered QUITE useful.
Another example is recently my Bro took ownership of a pretty done up 1987 Buick Grand National, Making 530 RWHP on Meth and has decent gearing. He cannot brake burnout the tires on the STREET. He tried all he could. He needed the Linelock to do any sort of burnout.
Before I owned my LS1 m6 car I had a 383 LT1 High Comp 1994 Z28
It had a Moser 12 bolt at the time and a Smallish stall (2800 and 3.42 gear ratio)
Now mind you I know a WHOLE lot more now then I did back then.
Going to the track I got them wet in the water and staged to Power Brake Burn to get them ready. The car actually PUSHED through the Brakes, No matter how much I clamped and how much I punched the throttle, it was just STICKING and pushed the car through the line.
Subsequently it bogged off the line due to the stall and gearing issues.
So even in a auto car a Line lock works and is considered QUITE useful.
Another example is recently my Bro took ownership of a pretty done up 1987 Buick Grand National, Making 530 RWHP on Meth and has decent gearing. He cannot brake burnout the tires on the STREET. He tried all he could. He needed the Linelock to do any sort of burnout.
I understand that. Iv never been to a track yet so im a little green in that catagory. So if those tires stick that well then why would I need to do a burnout in the first place? My car is almost stock and it only put down 316 rwh and 333 rwt before headers+ory. Do I really even need to burnout with that low of power? I can just get the tires and do the lock later on when I have more power no?
I understand that. Iv never been to a track yet so im a little green in that catagory. So if those tires stick that well then why would I need to do a burnout in the first place? My car is almost stock and it only put down 316 rwh and 333 rwt before headers+ory. Do I really even need to burnout with that low of power? I can just get the tires and do the lock later on when I have more power no?
So even if you do not hit the streets, IF you do any street racing, its a good mod to have.
Just passing along a little knowledge.
I'll be driving to and from the track in race-trim. No changes other than tire pressure.
Thats good to hear. I dont wanna have to worry about all that stuff yet,cause my car is just about stock.
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
A line lock is nice to have, but not a necessity as far as I'm concerned. I have no trouble with my mickey thompson tires on my Formula, which was bone stock when I started using them. Just make sure they have good water in the burnout box and don't roll too far forward of the front edge of the water box.
Derek
Derek
