Building a race car? Document it here!
98, it's pretty easy. Just hit the post reply, rather then the quick reply, and you can attach images there. There is size limitations, but it works fine. I'm still not sure how people put the big images on here, but the attach images, works for smaller ones, like what I do.
Hopefully someone that knows how to put the big ones up will come in here, as I'd like to know myself!
Hopefully someone that knows how to put the big ones up will come in here, as I'd like to know myself!
98, it's pretty easy. Just hit the post reply, rather then the quick reply, and you can attach images there. There is size limitations, but it works fine. I'm still not sure how people put the big images on here, but the attach images, works for smaller ones, like what I do.
Hopefully someone that knows how to put the big ones up will come in here, as I'd like to know myself!
Hopefully someone that knows how to put the big ones up will come in here, as I'd like to know myself!
ps-some very nice builds in here!
We need some of that sand/mud rail build goin on in here!!!
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Joined: May 2011
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Hi guys thanks for your help. JLws -6 I like the look of that launch. Nasty! I will try to upload them from photobucket as im already a member. Today is a big day for me as my tig man is coming here in an hour to finish my cage, I cant wait! hopefully you guys get an idea of where im at.
Ok that worked, the wolf mini tubs are in here, the 12 point moly cage is cabletied and strung in to trial fit.
Her the floor plates are down there is primer on the tubs, the front hoop is welded to the middle hoop.
Here is where im at today, now the rear bars are on the main hoop, hopefully you can see the larger floor plates that I cut for the boot.
I also started my engine plate yesterday, will upload some pics later for anyone interested. Got to go get ready now, enjy your weekend guys.
Ok that worked, the wolf mini tubs are in here, the 12 point moly cage is cabletied and strung in to trial fit.
Her the floor plates are down there is primer on the tubs, the front hoop is welded to the middle hoop.
Here is where im at today, now the rear bars are on the main hoop, hopefully you can see the larger floor plates that I cut for the boot.
I also started my engine plate yesterday, will upload some pics later for anyone interested. Got to go get ready now, enjy your weekend guys.
Last edited by 98 grmrpr; Jul 30, 2011 at 06:23 PM.
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Hi guys well my buddy helped tig the cage, I finished it yesterday.
It came up well, I have now added the window net.
Bloody hard to get into now, and there is no seat and no steering wheel yet!!
Just got the shoot cable to weld in and were done.
Here is my engine plate so far, still needs alittle work and then I will be putting in my gearbox plate. I think that it is starting to look the part.
Here is my wheel wells before primer with the new coilover spring mounts.
Let me know what you guys think!
Cheers.
It came up well, I have now added the window net.
Bloody hard to get into now, and there is no seat and no steering wheel yet!!
Just got the shoot cable to weld in and were done.
Here is my engine plate so far, still needs alittle work and then I will be putting in my gearbox plate. I think that it is starting to look the part.
Here is my wheel wells before primer with the new coilover spring mounts.
Let me know what you guys think!
Cheers.
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Brett Foote TECH Regular
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Im runnig a 355 sbc 450- 500hp with a 250hp wet shot of nos, power glide and still looing for a new rear end. Saw your buid DHRACER, Loved it!!! You have done alot of wrk, i always believe the hrder u wrk the more that you appreciate it. you build is very different to mine dont u think??? Look at the cage set ups, Wheel sizeprobably the same will try to run 13 inchslick! you running coilovers in the rear?
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Thanks man. I like working on my own stuff as much as I can. Yes i'm going to run a coil over that bolts in the stock location,if it dosent hit the rear tires.If they do i'll move them. I wanted to build my cage with the tail section to stiffen up the rear of the car. I hope it helps!!!!I'm going to run a forced induction small block. Most likely a pro-charger.Keep up the good work!!!!
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Thanks DHRACER! I had my first shot at tigin ally today. My buddy said that im a natural, which is very cool. Now it looks like I can fabricate my own fuel cell and catch cans, etc. 
. I will keep you guys posted.
. I will keep you guys posted. TECH Regular
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Hi guys, There is not much to update. But I have since cut my engine plate mounts back out. I want to get some advice on trying something else.
I would like my body mount part to beable to support a variety of engines, with the addition of a new motor plate, are you with me???
So I was wondering, because I dont have one, but I know its longer how much longer is a BBC to a small block chev??
I have a LS1 here and it is about an inch shorter than the sbc.
So I was thinking of doing like an alternater setup, where my front steel body mount will fit a bbc, and another steel mount which would fit the smallest engine the LS1.
Hope your with me so far, then making some steel tube shims on either side to make up the difference, with a through bolt.
What do you guys think??
I would like my body mount part to beable to support a variety of engines, with the addition of a new motor plate, are you with me???
So I was wondering, because I dont have one, but I know its longer how much longer is a BBC to a small block chev??
I have a LS1 here and it is about an inch shorter than the sbc.
So I was thinking of doing like an alternater setup, where my front steel body mount will fit a bbc, and another steel mount which would fit the smallest engine the LS1.
Hope your with me so far, then making some steel tube shims on either side to make up the difference, with a through bolt.
What do you guys think??
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Hi guys, not much happening at the moment work is busy, which is both good and bad, good for the money but doesnt help me work on the car!
This is where iam at, made a template from cardboard to replicte out of steel plate to reinforce the rails.
Madman filled me in on some engine lengths so once the plates are welded I will add new engine mount tabs to the body, think I going with three seperate mounting positions and not the through bolt idea, as no one answered but I think it could lead to shearing the bolt. But I want the body work done this shot.
Started to tig the plates, but need more time after work to get stuck right in. Probably wont get to untill the weekend, but I will try.
This is where iam at, made a template from cardboard to replicte out of steel plate to reinforce the rails.
Madman filled me in on some engine lengths so once the plates are welded I will add new engine mount tabs to the body, think I going with three seperate mounting positions and not the through bolt idea, as no one answered but I think it could lead to shearing the bolt. But I want the body work done this shot.
Started to tig the plates, but need more time after work to get stuck right in. Probably wont get to untill the weekend, but I will try.
Explain the mounting positions, and the through bolt idea that you feel may not work.
I had my motor place mounted with 2 bolts per side (next one will have 3), and it was setup so that it didn't sit on top of the frame rails. This was done on purpose... when I had to pull the tranny I could just put a strap around the motor, unbolt the tranny crossmember, pull it off with the motor/trans supported by the strap, take the bolts out of the motor plate, lower it down, reattach with the top 2 bolts in the lower 2 holes on the body so the motor was still in the car, but was sitting down about 3 inches. Doing so allowed me to pull the tranny VERY EASY, on jackstands, on my back. Once the trans was out, I would lift the motor back up, reattach with both bolts, and put a piece of 4x4 under the back of the pan so the motor wouldn't sag, until I was ready to put the trans back in then the motor would get lowered again, put the trans back on, raise the whole motor/trans up into position, reattach at the motor place, attach the trans crossmember, done deal. headers and whatnot all cleared enough to lower it down too.. worked really good.
I plan do to the same with the next deal. Motor plate will have 3 bolts per side, mid plate (didn't have one on the last setup) will have 2 spaced the same as the front ones, and I will put studs in the block so when the trans is removed, the mid plate stays in place to hold the motor. This, also worked really well on a couple other cars I've worked on.
I had my motor place mounted with 2 bolts per side (next one will have 3), and it was setup so that it didn't sit on top of the frame rails. This was done on purpose... when I had to pull the tranny I could just put a strap around the motor, unbolt the tranny crossmember, pull it off with the motor/trans supported by the strap, take the bolts out of the motor plate, lower it down, reattach with the top 2 bolts in the lower 2 holes on the body so the motor was still in the car, but was sitting down about 3 inches. Doing so allowed me to pull the tranny VERY EASY, on jackstands, on my back. Once the trans was out, I would lift the motor back up, reattach with both bolts, and put a piece of 4x4 under the back of the pan so the motor wouldn't sag, until I was ready to put the trans back in then the motor would get lowered again, put the trans back on, raise the whole motor/trans up into position, reattach at the motor place, attach the trans crossmember, done deal. headers and whatnot all cleared enough to lower it down too.. worked really good.
I plan do to the same with the next deal. Motor plate will have 3 bolts per side, mid plate (didn't have one on the last setup) will have 2 spaced the same as the front ones, and I will put studs in the block so when the trans is removed, the mid plate stays in place to hold the motor. This, also worked really well on a couple other cars I've worked on.
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Hey JL, Good ideas. My engine will still beable to be in place also when removing the box. As Im thinking of welding it to the body via some tubes, just havent decided where to put them for clearence yet my midplate is 2mm steel and is sandwitched between the gearbox and the motor, so your motor dowels locate it, will get back to this at a later stage.
Ok my through bolt idea was so my chassis could take sbc, bbc, or ls1 whatever I want. So you would have three body mount tabs roughly an inch apart going down the rails, an inch apart as sbc is an inch longer than ls1 and bbc is roughly an inch longer than sbc, ok.
Then to bolt it up you will need to cut some good sized steel tube to sandwich between all the mounts depending on engine combo and place a large through bolt the entire length. The box will stay where it is.
My engine plate will be short of the rail and have two bolts either side one ontop of the rail the other on the inside of the rail.
Didnt get any welding done last night, pulled the engine and box to drop the kmember to get better access to weld. After doing so, maybe the through bolt idea isnt so bad, as look at my existing mounts they are basically a through bolt system.
The space between tabs isnt excessive, love to hear your thoughts.
Ok my through bolt idea was so my chassis could take sbc, bbc, or ls1 whatever I want. So you would have three body mount tabs roughly an inch apart going down the rails, an inch apart as sbc is an inch longer than ls1 and bbc is roughly an inch longer than sbc, ok.
Then to bolt it up you will need to cut some good sized steel tube to sandwich between all the mounts depending on engine combo and place a large through bolt the entire length. The box will stay where it is.
My engine plate will be short of the rail and have two bolts either side one ontop of the rail the other on the inside of the rail.
Didnt get any welding done last night, pulled the engine and box to drop the kmember to get better access to weld. After doing so, maybe the through bolt idea isnt so bad, as look at my existing mounts they are basically a through bolt system.
The space between tabs isnt excessive, love to hear your thoughts.
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Ok guys, pulled a late one last night frame plates are down, kmember is back in and engine plate sits back on the front of the engine again.
Ok this one shows roughly what I mean with the three tabs for different engines with a piece of tube "not the right diameter or length" but hopefully you get the idea. I want to use a 5/8 bolt so tube will be of 5/8 inside diameter.
Let me know what you guys think of the idea???
Ok this one shows roughly what I mean with the three tabs for different engines with a piece of tube "not the right diameter or length" but hopefully you get the idea. I want to use a 5/8 bolt so tube will be of 5/8 inside diameter.
Let me know what you guys think of the idea???
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Thanks DH. Now im kind of just hangin to get my game plan with the body tabs. Would like a tech guru's thought with the thru bolt before I do it. Some good and bad points etc. Emailed VFN about hood and guards maybe lexen windscreen and trunk, as I have been unable to get in contact with them.
DH did you end up running your glass trunk??
Your build is looking very nice and looks like a car again, cant wait to have mine at that point. I was looking at the comment in your buid about your chute height, I know that your planning to run a wing. I'm not at this point but I will have to check but it looks at a similar height to mine, It will depend alot on the shape of the tail for the shoot mount, if you want any info on mine let me know.
Keep up the good work DH.
DH did you end up running your glass trunk??
Your build is looking very nice and looks like a car again, cant wait to have mine at that point. I was looking at the comment in your buid about your chute height, I know that your planning to run a wing. I'm not at this point but I will have to check but it looks at a similar height to mine, It will depend alot on the shape of the tail for the shoot mount, if you want any info on mine let me know.
Keep up the good work DH.
I don't know if I like the bolt idea to be honest. I think the tab being in contact with the plate, and the tab being reinforced (from the back side, triangle piece or 2 to the frame, you get the idea) is what gives the motor plate mounting alot of strength. The motor plate becomes a part of the chassis once it's there, it ties everything together.
If you just have a bolt, with a long spacer like that in front and behind it, yes you would be able to put any motor in the car that you want sure. But, honestly how many times do you plan to go back and forth from a bbc to a sbc to an lsx or the like?
If you have to, put 2 sets of tabs on the front and just find a fixed position in the back, so you just have to change the rear plate for whatever motor, trans stays in the same place and the front may have 2 sets of tabs.
If you just have a bolt, with a long spacer like that in front and behind it, yes you would be able to put any motor in the car that you want sure. But, honestly how many times do you plan to go back and forth from a bbc to a sbc to an lsx or the like?
If you have to, put 2 sets of tabs on the front and just find a fixed position in the back, so you just have to change the rear plate for whatever motor, trans stays in the same place and the front may have 2 sets of tabs.