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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 09:09 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Open loop helps the car tune of the car. Really Emissions related. IF you have no requirement Speed Density Tune in Open loops is ideal and easier to do. I am not a Tuning guy but thats my understanding.

The length of tubing helps get the exhaust not to reverb on the body and behind the driver seat. Again IF not street use, then that is ideal.
Your understanding of this is completely wrong. I don't understand how someone can make so many "technical advice" posts about stuff you don't understand or have experience with.
Open loop means there's no fuel trimming from O2 sensor feedback. In open loop the only things controlling fueling are the sensors on the intake side of the motor and the values in your tune. Going speed density eliminates the maf, one of those sensors that controls fueling on the intake side so now you're relying on your iat sensor and the accuracy of your tune. I have some cars running around in sdol and it can work fine but it is definitely not the easiest way to tune. It's also something you'll have to watch as weather changes to make sure the computer is compensating correctly, otherwise touch ups will be needed. It's also something that relies heavily on the iat sensor to get a proper reading of the incoming air temperature.
To the OP's question if you're going to run an extension off the collector you might as well as least put a wideband in for datalogging. Whether or not you leave the O2's on is up to you. As far as speed density goes that's up to you also but unless it's a restriction why ditch the maf? You will need some sort of extension off the collector to get either a wideband or narrowband to read properly.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 01:12 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Kaltech Tuning
Your understanding of this is completely wrong. I don't understand how someone can make so many "technical advice" posts about stuff you don't understand or have experience with.
Open loop means there's no fuel trimming from O2 sensor feedback. In open loop the only things controlling fueling are the sensors on the intake side of the motor and the values in your tune. Going speed density eliminates the maf, one of those sensors that controls fueling on the intake side so now you're relying on your iat sensor and the accuracy of your tune. I have some cars running around in sdol and it can work fine but it is definitely not the easiest way to tune. It's also something you'll have to watch as weather changes to make sure the computer is compensating correctly, otherwise touch ups will be needed. It's also something that relies heavily on the iat sensor to get a proper reading of the incoming air temperature.
To the OP's question if you're going to run an extension off the collector you might as well as least put a wideband in for datalogging. Whether or not you leave the O2's on is up to you. As far as speed density goes that's up to you also but unless it's a restriction why ditch the maf? You will need some sort of extension off the collector to get either a wideband or narrowband to read properly.
You are right on the maf part i dont see it being a restriction so might just end up keeping the maf and save on tuning costs, but then again in the long run i plan on getting rid of it anyway... so thats just something ill have to think about i guess. I already have an aeroforce guage mounted and i know i could just get the wideband for it, so i think ill end up doing that because i know for sure i want to do away with the o2's.
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I've always just gotten an bolt the right thread from the local lowes/home depot bin and cut it short, so it wouldn't protrude into the pipe. Never had a problem capping an O2 bung that way. Or, leave a dead sensor in the hole, and just don't hook it up to anything.
I think i do have a couple bolts i could cut down that are the right thread pattern

Originally Posted by Powershift_98
Check autozone or whatever you have in your area for an Oil Drain Plug for a '83 toyota tercel. Dorman Part # 65220. Thats what I use and it works great!
Ill have to check into that. If the cost is low ill probably go that route.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 04:39 PM
  #23  
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Really no reason to ditch the maf at the level you're at IMO, I ran a bone stock untouched one to 9.50 with a little nitrous, car went 10.50 like it was nothing at 3600 lbs same motor. Sure, taking the maf out might have helped, but certainly wasn't killing the car that's for sure.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 12:14 PM
  #24  
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It seems like keeping the o2s (2, not 4) and getting a regular maf tune could suit you best for now. My car runs pretty much the same in open and closed loop because both are tuned. I like having the o2s so the car can keep itself running properly in different locations and weather. One of the nice benefits of EFI. It seems like you just want to ditch the 02s for some reason. I don't think i would do that unless i was getting ready to put a big BG Demon on it or tune it everytime you drive it. Run some 3" titanium pipes back if you're worried about weight. Those pipes would weigh less than the sensors themselves. Listen to Kaltech and maybe give him a call. Its not real clear what you're trying to accomplish. (throwing away everything but the headers to save weight and tune based on that?) If you have a bolt on ls1 and plan on building a 440 inch motor (or whatever) then you should just get the car running right for now. I think if you get the car tuned as-is and spend whatever money on say LCAs or save up for a 9" or 12bolt
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by traviSS396
It seems like keeping the o2s (2, not 4) and getting a regular maf tune could suit you best for now. My car runs pretty much the same in open and closed loop because both are tuned. I like having the o2s so the car can keep itself running properly in different locations and weather. One of the nice benefits of EFI. It seems like you just want to ditch the 02s for some reason. I don't think i would do that unless i was getting ready to put a big BG Demon on it or tune it everytime you drive it. Run some 3" titanium pipes back if you're worried about weight. Those pipes would weigh less than the sensors themselves. Listen to Kaltech and maybe give him a call. Its not real clear what you're trying to accomplish. (throwing away everything but the headers to save weight and tune based on that?) If you have a bolt on ls1 and plan on building a 440 inch motor (or whatever) then you should just get the car running right for now. I think if you get the car tuned as-is and spend whatever money on say LCAs or save up for a 9" or 12bolt
Im building a cam only setup. My mods so far is a built 4l60e with a 4k stall, 12 bolt with 430 gears/ spooled and quite a bit of weight off the car (no radio, no a/c, etc.). Im shooting for a 7.0 index car.
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