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Motor Plate w/ Mounts

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Old 09-16-2010, 06:07 AM
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Solid tranny mount takes care of that.
Old 09-16-2010, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by monster81
so according to that link; u weld the tabs on the frame and then bolt the plates to the tabs, right? will the LT1 plate install the same? do u have a pic of the LT1 motor plate?
You're right about the initial set-up. The LT1 plates do install the same way. I don't think I have any pics handy, but i'll check around for some to post up sometime today.
Old 09-16-2010, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Solid tranny mount takes care of that.
Exactly. That thing will not be going anywhere.
Old 09-16-2010, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Solid tranny mount takes care of that.
Wrong again. Make enough HP some day and find out what that solid mount will do to a tailshaft housing. You speak from opinions and no experience...
Old 09-16-2010, 02:40 PM
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can someone post pictures of this torsional support? also how bad would it be to run a solid trans mount on the street? i only make low 4XX currently, but when everything is dont i will be making around 800whp.

suggestions on setting that one up?
Old 09-16-2010, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Firehawk441
Wrong again. Make enough HP some day and find out what that solid mount will do to a tailshaft housing. You speak from opinions and no experience...
Well, considering I watched Ken's orange LSX car go 8.2x with the motor plate I had in my car, no mid plate, and a solid mount on a dedenbear cased glide, and with no problems, that's enough info for me. Nevermind the 1/2 dozen other cars that were everything from procharged cars, to BBC cars that had just a motor plate and a solid tranny mount, or a mid plate/motor plate with a solid tranny mount that I've dealt with/worked on. One car comes to mind, a BBC procharged car that probably had 200 passes on it in the 8 second range, which had nothing more then a 1/8th thick mid plate, 1/4 inch thick front plate and a solid glide mount, and ran that way for 3 years with no issues.

Maybe the cars you've seen/touched/know/have owned had problems, but there's plenty of guys runnign NO torsional support and making pretty good steam, with no problems.
Old 09-16-2010, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
there's plenty of guys runnign NO torsional support and making pretty good steam, with no problems.
You don't seem to get it...

There are plenty of people that have not had issues with reluctor wheels breaking either. Doesn't mean it doesn't happen...

I haven't had the problem but I assure you I'm not stupid enough to think it can't.
Old 09-16-2010, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SS4Luck
can someone post pictures of this torsional support? also how bad would it be to run a solid trans mount on the street? i only make low 4XX currently, but when everything is dont i will be making around 800whp.

suggestions on setting that one up?

The engine limiter, or as some are calling it a torsional bar, mounts from your frame to the engine in most cases. Keeping the drivetrain fom moving backwards. During hard acceleration while launching, the heavy engine and trans is trying to sit still while the rest of the car moves forward. This causes the motor plates to flex or break. The limiter will keep this from happening.
Many years back on my co-workers dragster, he broke two motor plates from not having a limiter on the car.

Using a solid trans mount on a street car would most likely never give you any trouble. The g forces from very hard acccelerations is what causes things to break. The lower the 60' times, the more possibilities there are of breaking. Hope this helps.
Old 09-16-2010, 07:39 PM
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I always thought solid tranny mount and solid mounts is a big no no. So, a motor plate and solid tranny mount would be the same. Could be wrong, just going on what ive read on the net mainly yb, and that could be wrong..


Chris
Old 09-16-2010, 07:48 PM
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Running a motor plate and no midplate is a bad idea. Thats a lot of weight hanging off 2 points with a joint (motor to trans) in the middle.

With that said, a limiter is always needed to stop front to back movement.

And, according to my chassis shop solid trans mounts are great ways to crack cases
Old 09-16-2010, 07:56 PM
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I think its a matter of what someone says and what they have had troubles with.The guy that builds my transmission said if I am going to run motor plates also use a solid trans mount because using a poly mount it then becomes the weak link.He uses motor plates with solid trans mounts on all his drag cars.
Old 10-13-2010, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Well, considering I watched Ken's orange LSX car go 8.2x with the motor plate I had in my car, no mid plate, and a solid mount on a dedenbear cased glide, and with no problems, that's enough info for me.
Hahaha! I just realized what you said.
It indeed ran 8.2 like you said. You obviously don't know what happened to that LSX as a result of no midplate and why one was added with the B/B chevy. The engine I purchased from Ken was a CLONE of the original with some of the parts that survived from the original. Your enough info is lacking as usual...
Old 10-14-2010, 12:18 AM
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heres some pics of my setup. ignore the dummy block/other things. waiting to finish up the motor and body work before getting it reassembled.



Old 10-14-2010, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Firehawk441
Hahaha! I just realized what you said.
It indeed ran 8.2 like you said. You obviously don't know what happened to that LSX as a result of no midplate and why one was added with the B/B chevy. The engine I purchased from Ken was a CLONE of the original with some of the parts that survived from the original. Your enough info is lacking as usual...
Would you be implying the cracked cylinders in #2 and #8? I saw the original block that was damaged, I was there when it happened, and saw the block 2 days later when it was out of the car on the engine stand when the damage was found....

That had nothing to do with the lack of a mid plate. That was due to the block being one of the original lot that had a casting defect, that more then one person had an issue with...

The midplate was added with the big block becuase the thing damn near 1300 HP BEFORE any nitrous! That's a totally different power level that was in that car, that same engine/car have now gone 7.30 at some insane mph... that needs all the support it can get, and is a completely different animal.


Keep trying.....
Old 10-14-2010, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
Would you be implying the cracked cylinders in #2 and #8? I saw the original block that was damaged, I was there when it happened, and saw the block 2 days later when it was out of the car on the engine stand when the damage was found....

That had nothing to do with the lack of a mid plate. That was due to the block being one of the original lot that had a casting defect, that more then one person had an issue with...

The midplate was added with the big block becuase the thing damn near 1300 HP BEFORE any nitrous!


Keep trying.....
Just as I thought. Your version is different then Kens.
Old 10-14-2010, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Fast_94_Z
heres some pics of my setup. ignore the dummy block/other things. waiting to finish up the motor and body work before getting it reassembled.
Nice job. How many Cu. In. is that B/B going to be?
Old 10-14-2010, 08:50 PM
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the original plan was for a brodix 555 with bb3xtra heads and a pte 106mm....... ive got something else up my sleeve now.... just wait and see
Old 10-14-2010, 10:15 PM
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i just ordered a motor and mid plate from racecraft today. any body have any more good plate pics.
Old 10-15-2010, 07:09 AM
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I agree with Firehawk...

Best option for a higher hp setup is motor plate + midplate + engine limiter. Thats the setup I use with a poly trans mount...
Old 10-15-2010, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by fuel
i just ordered a motor and mid plate from racecraft today. any body have any more good plate pics.
This is a KTS Front and Mid plate...


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