tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

Anyone running a motor plate along with motor mounts? Seems would help to stiffen the car up. Granted most of the load would remain on the K member.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Once you put a motor plate on there's no point in keeping the motor mounts. Ditch them, the plate will do the job. Som sort of torsional support is a good idea if you're running just the plate, this will help stop the motor from trying to shift forward/backwards. It's not needed if you put a midplate in, or are running an aftermarket cased glide, and a solid tranny mount.

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

Just buy our motorplate/midplate set-up. No worries

SS4Luck

iTrader: (10)

when is it smart to go to a motor plate setup and how much do they usually go for?

JL when you say torsional support, what do you mean? I know this may sound stupid but ive been thining about ditching the solids MM and going to a plate system. Also as far as a solid tranny mount who sells then and how smart are they to have on a car that seems some (~2500 mi a year) street use.

Car is 90% track now with the other mainly being some street racing

ATwelveSec02Z28

iTrader: (17)

It is recommended to put a torsional support in with motorplates to stop forward/backward shifting of the engine. The plates are usually 1/4" aluminum in the front and 0.090 steel for the mid - the will flex.

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

well, if figure leave the plate in and run a cross member with motor mounts. That way, if you can't have a plate, pull it out and let motor rest on the mounts. Rest of time, keep plate in, and have extra support b/w the frame rails, as well as better reaction times.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I very much agree.

The whole point of doing the mid plate is for strength, access to work on the engine or removal, and weight savings as the motor mounts are gone. IMO if you want a motor mount still in there. Just do a solid mount.

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

ok blackie. you got me sold.

fuel

iTrader: (13)

is a motor plate manditory if you run past 8.50

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

8.50 in the 1/8. No, I don't believe.

SS4Luck

iTrader: (10)

well ive pretty much decided the next $200 i get imma buy some motor plates

up for sale soon some spohn solid mounts



im sure he is talking about 8.50 in the 1/4.... look how many cars are below 8.5 stock in the 1/8th

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I don't know when a motor plate is required... but I'd say anything in the 8 second or faster area it's a good idea. Takes the load off the block/cylinder case, probably helps keep cyl's round better, that type of thing.

I have a motor plate in my car and a diagonal support that runs from the passenger's side motor mount to the frame rail.

I will be redoing that and putting a mid plate in, to help stiffen the entire setup up a little more...

mad_steve

iTrader: (2)

For those of you interested in going with a motor-plate set up, here are the links to our motor plates and mid plates.

http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...aspx?itemid=16

http://www.madmanandcoracing.com/sho...aspx?itemid=15

When you're ready to order, give me a call. Our number is 225-673-3533. THANKS!

tee-boy

iTrader: (8)

OK, bad joke.

monster81

so according to that link; u weld the tabs on the frame and then bolt the plates to the tabs, right? will the LT1 plate install the same? do u have a pic of the LT1 motor plate?

camaroturbo

if you run the midplate do you need a shim for the conveter

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Yes you will have to.

The Guy in MY 99TA

I dun think a motor plate would work w/ air conditioning though...

408trans_am

iTrader: (263)

most mid plates will come with a spacer of the same thickness material that will bolt between the crank and flexplate, this will space the flexplate back the same amount the trans and motor get spaced apart. Although i believe the best way is to have the converter custom made for a midplate.

Firehawk441

iTrader: (41)

Wrong...
A midplate WILL NOT keep the drive train from moving without a torsional bar on higher HP applications.