Yet another 275 Radial Build
05-02-2011, 08:30 AM
#81
For rear-wheel-drive cars, with neither a frame nor subframe connectors, but with complete OEM floor (from the firewall to the rear of the trunk; exception: the rear inner wheel wells may be tubbed with steel or aluminum), the 1 1/4- inch x .058-inch CM (or .118-inch MS) D bars may be welded to conventional 6-inch x 6-inch x 1/8-inch form fitted/contoured plates attached to the driveshaft tunnel. Otherwise, the D bars must be attached to frame, subframe, or subframe connectors.
Sean
Sean
His car's got a chassis sticker on it, my car has a chassis sticker on it, along with about 100 other cars I can think of...
THAT WERE DONE THE SAME WAY.
It is fine, there's nothing wrong with putting them where NRC put those bars, as well as every other chassis shop out there.
Quote all teh crap that you can find, wherever you found that, I don't care. I've seen cars at NHRA events, get thru tech with NO problems with bars in the same location.
05-02-2011, 08:46 AM
#82
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I don't have a chassis sicker yet. I'm holding off on doing that until the car is finished. Not use in wasting a year of the time it is good for.
05-02-2011, 09:17 AM
#84
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“For rear-wheel-drive cars, with neither a frame nor subframe connectors, but with complete OEM floor (from the firewall to the rear of the trunk; exception: the rear inner wheel wells may be tubbed with steel or aluminum), the 1 1/4- inch x .058-inch CM (or .118-inch MS) “D” bars may be welded to conventional 6-inch x 6-inch x 1/8-inch form fitted/contoured plates attached to the driveshaft tunnel. Otherwise, the “D” bars must be attached to frame, subframe, or subframe connectors.”
Sean
Sean
there was confusion about those bars in earlier rulebooks...they added the DS tunnel thing as an acceptable way to do it. I'm personally not a fan of putting them on the tunnel since its a relatively weak area...
I like all the extra gussets they put in...will provide more driver safety if something bad happens
05-02-2011, 10:15 AM
#85
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Thanks guys. I am really happy with the way it came out. Definitely feel like I got my moneys worth. My girlfriend took some more pictures once we got it home and I'll upload those when I get home from work.
Next on the list is to buy a battery, battery box, and cutoff switch and start wiring.
Next on the list is to buy a battery, battery box, and cutoff switch and start wiring.
05-02-2011, 06:21 PM
#89
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Yea I've sat it in. My helmet hits on the left side but it was a close fit even before the cage. I'm sure I will end up resting my head against it, lol.
I'm keeping the stock column for now. Its on the wish list but not the need list.
I'm keeping the stock column for now. Its on the wish list but not the need list.
05-02-2011, 06:22 PM
#90
Looking at that.. Buzz you must be a short guy 
I can't believe how far forward that seat is! You really don't want your head touching the bar, Ya may want to lower/adjust the seat position to give yourself some more room.
I ran an SFI approves padding on my cage and it almost hit my helmet, so I went with the thinner approved padding, to give myself a little more room...
Looks killer, typical Bob/Jay work as always.
Column, for those that are doing them, there's extenders available for the steering wheel, I'd build the column to use a 3 inch one, so when you remove the wheel, the extender comes with it, and you will have that much less column in the way when you go to get in and out of the car.
I can't believe how far forward that seat is! You really don't want your head touching the bar, Ya may want to lower/adjust the seat position to give yourself some more room.I ran an SFI approves padding on my cage and it almost hit my helmet, so I went with the thinner approved padding, to give myself a little more room...
Looks killer, typical Bob/Jay work as always.
Column, for those that are doing them, there's extenders available for the steering wheel, I'd build the column to use a 3 inch one, so when you remove the wheel, the extender comes with it, and you will have that much less column in the way when you go to get in and out of the car.
05-02-2011, 06:25 PM
#91
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Nah I'm 6ft tall I've just always sat close in everything I drive. After the dash goes back it I might move the seat back a little, not sure yet.
05-02-2011, 06:41 PM
#92
You'll be able to steer the car with your teeth with the seat that far forward
As long as you're comfortable in it, that's all that matters. I'm 6'3 and I put the seat right on the floor, so it's as low as it can really go, without cutting the back stock seat support out.
Of course now it will probably go a little lower with what I am doing... but we will see when it's done.
As long as you're comfortable in it, that's all that matters. I'm 6'3 and I put the seat right on the floor, so it's as low as it can really go, without cutting the back stock seat support out.
Of course now it will probably go a little lower with what I am doing... but we will see when it's done.
05-02-2011, 06:50 PM
#94
Hey, thanks for deleting my post that had useful information to this thread, and for others that may look at it. That is very helpful to the board.
Car looks good, cant wait to see it finished.
Sean
Car looks good, cant wait to see it finished.
Sean
05-03-2011, 07:54 PM
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ok guy,s dont know who started what, but anyone who knows F bodies knows the rear unibody frame rail starts right where we put the 6x6 plate, and thats where the D bars go.not on the tunnel
it states may be welded to tunnel if you dont have a frame /subframe/or sub frame connectors.
the rear frame [unibody cars now] on an f body starts right where the plates are,and are a struture of the car.the tunnels is not a support structure
again some will pass it on tunnel[dam some passed it on tubs,and we know thats not correct] but most will not......
this was brought to my attention because......
i don't come on here much anymore as the new owners kinda told me to get off,even though i was on board giving free info for 5 years. because there are others doing this it infringed on sponsors,even though i never solicited from this board for anyone to bring me work..........
it states may be welded to tunnel if you dont have a frame /subframe/or sub frame connectors.
the rear frame [unibody cars now] on an f body starts right where the plates are,and are a struture of the car.the tunnels is not a support structure
again some will pass it on tunnel[dam some passed it on tubs,and we know thats not correct] but most will not......
this was brought to my attention because......
i don't come on here much anymore as the new owners kinda told me to get off,even though i was on board giving free info for 5 years. because there are others doing this it infringed on sponsors,even though i never solicited from this board for anyone to bring me work..........
Last edited by NRC-Motorsports; 05-03-2011 at 08:06 PM.
05-03-2011, 08:14 PM
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it will go right back in[slides in from rear of car] we used the old one as a spacer[thats why the top looks far away from roof and windshield frame],but it was just worn out and torn on all edges, so we took it out after the cage was done.......
Last edited by NRC-Motorsports; 05-03-2011 at 08:21 PM.