suspension gurus....m6/drag sus/bias ply....vid inside
11-20-2010, 05:18 AM
#23
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I never said a 2 step was the end all, but coming out of the hole at 6300 is alot different than doing it at 6K in this convo. It takes another cariable out of the equation to help solve the overall problem. Its like having a line lock with an M6 too. Hit the button, and dont have to worry about rolling forward if your track isnt level, or lets you smell clutch if it isnt disengaging all the way.
11-20-2010, 09:44 AM
#24
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i have the spec twin clutch w/ there billet flywheel 18lbs
if i had a camera id go out rite now and show you 4 or 5 shoe polish marks on the tire that are now around the wheel
the track was shitty last nite, and i spun to a 1.57
and personally a 2 step isnt gonna help me if im not hooking from 5500 up
-brandon
if i had a camera id go out rite now and show you 4 or 5 shoe polish marks on the tire that are now around the wheel
the track was shitty last nite, and i spun to a 1.57
and personally a 2 step isnt gonna help me if im not hooking from 5500 up
-brandon
11-20-2010, 09:54 AM
#25
You need a 2 step in the car, without one you're guessing what rpm you're launching at. Plus, then you put the right foot on the floor, and dump the left foot when you want to leave, no more screwing around with that.
If the car's spinning at 5300 you have problems. The tires need to be screwed to the rim, I'd stop wasting your time with anything less then a 28x10.5 full blown slick... that's about the min tire you can run and actually get the car to hook leaving off the limiter, which is essentially just about where you will have it by the time you get it working right.
15 psi in the tires is WAY too much too, you need about 13 in the tires you have on the car, and when you put a set of 28's on it will need about 12
If the car's spinning at 5300 you have problems. The tires need to be screwed to the rim, I'd stop wasting your time with anything less then a 28x10.5 full blown slick... that's about the min tire you can run and actually get the car to hook leaving off the limiter, which is essentially just about where you will have it by the time you get it working right.
15 psi in the tires is WAY too much too, you need about 13 in the tires you have on the car, and when you put a set of 28's on it will need about 12
11-20-2010, 10:10 AM
#26
You need a 2 step in the car, without one you're guessing what rpm you're launching at. Plus, then you put the right foot on the floor, and dump the left foot when you want to leave, no more screwing around with that.
If the car's spinning at 5300 you have problems. The tires need to be screwed to the rim, I'd stop wasting your time with anything less then a 28x10.5 full blown slick... that's about the min tire you can run and actually get the car to hook leaving off the limiter, which is essentially just about where you will have it by the time you get it working right.
15 psi in the tires is WAY too much too, you need about 13 in the tires you have on the car, and when you put a set of 28's on it will need about 12
If the car's spinning at 5300 you have problems. The tires need to be screwed to the rim, I'd stop wasting your time with anything less then a 28x10.5 full blown slick... that's about the min tire you can run and actually get the car to hook leaving off the limiter, which is essentially just about where you will have it by the time you get it working right.
15 psi in the tires is WAY too much too, you need about 13 in the tires you have on the car, and when you put a set of 28's on it will need about 12
I never understood this "guessing" you have a tach, most likely an aftermarket one at this stage...watch it! There is no guessing about it, 2 step NOT required to launch a good 60' period. consistant yes.
11-20-2010, 01:28 PM
#28
How you're going to watch the tree and try to cut a light.. and pay attention to a tach, and how much gas to give it.. and do this consistantly..... I don't think so.
If you're a test and tune guy and like to cut 1.x lights on a pro tree then yeah I guess you don't need it.
There's the other issue that you don't have your foot to the floor when you're leaving too, and that introduce's the question of how fast are you getting your foot to the floor, and are you consistantly doing that....
SS I'm touched too
Facts are facts on this issue.
If you're a test and tune guy and like to cut 1.x lights on a pro tree then yeah I guess you don't need it.
There's the other issue that you don't have your foot to the floor when you're leaving too, and that introduce's the question of how fast are you getting your foot to the floor, and are you consistantly doing that....
SS I'm touched too
Facts are facts on this issue.
11-20-2010, 01:50 PM
#29
How you're going to watch the tree and try to cut a light.. and pay attention to a tach, and how much gas to give it.. and do this consistantly..... I don't think so.
If you're a test and tune guy and like to cut 1.x lights on a pro tree then yeah I guess you don't need it.
There's the other issue that you don't have your foot to the floor when you're leaving too, and that introduce's the question of how fast are you getting your foot to the floor, and are you consistantly doing that....
SS I'm touched too Facts are facts on this issue.
If you're a test and tune guy and like to cut 1.x lights on a pro tree then yeah I guess you don't need it.
There's the other issue that you don't have your foot to the floor when you're leaving too, and that introduce's the question of how fast are you getting your foot to the floor, and are you consistantly doing that....
SS I'm touched too
Facts are facts on this issue.suspension,tire pressure, clutch release, shock settings, launch rpm.... most important things for a 6 speed car..... not a damn box.
11-20-2010, 02:19 PM
#30
If that's the case, then you need to get out and make some single digit runs with that 500+ rwhp you're making, and be able to repeat the performance from one run to the next..
When that happens I'll agree 100% that the 2 step is a waste.
And if you think that it's not important to be able to cut a light then you're just running for a #, and that's gonna get old quick.
When that happens I'll agree 100% that the 2 step is a waste.
And if you think that it's not important to be able to cut a light then you're just running for a #, and that's gonna get old quick.
11-20-2010, 04:11 PM
#32
If that's the case, then you need to get out and make some single digit runs with that 500+ rwhp you're making, and be able to repeat the performance from one run to the next..
When that happens I'll agree 100% that the 2 step is a waste.
And if you think that it's not important to be able to cut a light then you're just running for a #, and that's gonna get old quick.
When that happens I'll agree 100% that the 2 step is a waste.
And if you think that it's not important to be able to cut a light then you're just running for a #, and that's gonna get old quick.
I went 10.9's on patriot stage 1's,stock mls gaskets and a tqr II, 430rwhp. I destroyed the clutch with 500 trapped 130.9 with a slipping clutch .... but if it's results you would like to see, steer me in the direction of a rental and i'll do my best.... I also dont have a sub 3000 raceweight...
again, why you choose to bring my setup up, I dont know.... it's not relavent, except that I cut a much better 60' without a two step, consistantly.
11-20-2010, 10:04 PM
#33
I like my 2step, but think I'm faster without using it to launch on a sportsmen tree.
My stock revlimiter is 7200 I think. But I rev it to like 3-4K going into the 2nd bulb, and you kinda "just know" how to, can't remember to type it now. But when you see the 2nd yellow bulb you go WOT, so your letting off the clutch as the last yellow is fully lit. It revs fast over 3500-4. So its somewere over 6K, you might tag the limiter, but its fo fast you don't really notice. And you get the flywheel still accelerating and hitting, over how it become static energy maintaining rpms on the 2step.
steel? that's really light.
you still have more rpms left I'd use them.
I didn't start going 1.4s until I starting getting more aggressive, and got the car setup better to not spin. I was just happy with geting low 1.5s all year I gess
My stock revlimiter is 7200 I think. But I rev it to like 3-4K going into the 2nd bulb, and you kinda "just know" how to, can't remember to type it now. But when you see the 2nd yellow bulb you go WOT, so your letting off the clutch as the last yellow is fully lit. It revs fast over 3500-4. So its somewere over 6K, you might tag the limiter, but its fo fast you don't really notice. And you get the flywheel still accelerating and hitting, over how it become static energy maintaining rpms on the 2step.
i have the spec twin clutch w/ there billet flywheel 18lbs
you still have more rpms left I'd use them.
I didn't start going 1.4s until I starting getting more aggressive, and got the car setup better to not spin. I was just happy with geting low 1.5s all year I gess
Last edited by studderin; 11-20-2010 at 10:14 PM.
11-21-2010, 06:21 AM
#34
I suppose like others should run 8's with 13.5:1 comp, a 160 shot, et heads on top of a 402, through an auto.....
I went 10.9's on patriot stage 1's,stock mls gaskets and a tqr II, 430rwhp. I destroyed the clutch with 500 trapped 130.9 with a slipping clutch .... but if it's results you would like to see, steer me in the direction of a rental and i'll do my best.... I also dont have a sub 3000 raceweight...
again, why you choose to bring my setup up, I dont know.... it's not relavent, except that I cut a much better 60' without a two step, consistantly.
I went 10.9's on patriot stage 1's,stock mls gaskets and a tqr II, 430rwhp. I destroyed the clutch with 500 trapped 130.9 with a slipping clutch .... but if it's results you would like to see, steer me in the direction of a rental and i'll do my best.... I also dont have a sub 3000 raceweight...
again, why you choose to bring my setup up, I dont know.... it's not relavent, except that I cut a much better 60' without a two step, consistantly.
11-21-2010, 10:34 AM
#36
Think what you want. We had intentions of running the 9.50 index @ epping... considering the car would run a 9.5x every pass on pretty much any track we went to, and it would repeat, hot lapping if needed, in any weather, the goal was accomplished. If you saw the tune log and have any clue about what we could have been doing with the car in that end of things you'd ****. I've seen guys spray 600 hp of nitrous run more timing then we were... it was set up to repeat and never skip a beat. It did that, and id it well.
Let's see that 502 rwhp you're toting about go run a #, you seem to be all about trying to get one, so get it done.
And I want to see the reaction times on the slip, leaving on a .400 pro tree, with a car in the other lane. Let everyone see just how much time you'll spend watching that tach trying to get the rpm where you want it.
Let's see that 502 rwhp you're toting about go run a #, you seem to be all about trying to get one, so get it done.
And I want to see the reaction times on the slip, leaving on a .400 pro tree, with a car in the other lane. Let everyone see just how much time you'll spend watching that tach trying to get the rpm where you want it.
11-21-2010, 03:43 PM
#37
Think what you want. We had intentions of running the 9.50 index @ epping... considering the car would run a 9.5x every pass on pretty much any track we went to, and it would repeat, hot lapping if needed, in any weather, the goal was accomplished. If you saw the tune log and have any clue about what we could have been doing with the car in that end of things you'd ****. I've seen guys spray 600 hp of nitrous run more timing then we were... it was set up to repeat and never skip a beat. It did that, and id it well.
Let's see that 502 rwhp you're toting about go run a #, you seem to be all about trying to get one, so get it done.
And I want to see the reaction times on the slip, leaving on a .400 pro tree, with a car in the other lane. Let everyone see just how much time you'll spend watching that tach trying to get the rpm where you want it.
Let's see that 502 rwhp you're toting about go run a #, you seem to be all about trying to get one, so get it done.
And I want to see the reaction times on the slip, leaving on a .400 pro tree, with a car in the other lane. Let everyone see just how much time you'll spend watching that tach trying to get the rpm where you want it.
What does my car have to do with this AGAIN? Why do you always go off topic. I didnt tote ****, it's in my sig, you brought it up first. AGAIN, what does r/t have to do with cutting a good 60'. NOTHING. Stay on topic, apparantly you think you have the right to attack someones setup, but then dont like it much when it's done back to you..... for the 1 millionth time, a two step is not required to SET THE CAR UP TO 60' BETTER. Once it's set up right, then buy a two step if you like.
And, for ***** and giggles, perhaps you should have tried to run your car all out once like you preach to get a number, the ones you have arent impressive.
11-22-2010, 09:05 AM
#40
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Don't think I could live without the 2-step in the stang, that thing is stupid consistent thanks to it. It's a wonderful thing to be able to adjust launch rpm in such small increments.