Manual windows with roll bar/cage?
Manual windows with roll bar/cage? Anyone have some insight or experience with this setup? I really want to switch to manual windows but it seems I will crack my knuckles on the door bar every time I crank the window. Pics are more than welcome too.
I switched from power to manual windows, mainly just to be able to roll the windows up and down with the batt unhooked. At the track I just try to remember to roll the window up before closing the door or atleast roll it most of the way up before closing the door. I can roll it up or down with the door closed but with the door bar there its alot slower.
We had a window motor crap out in the down position in the burnout box. A track official came over to say something and the window wouldn't go back up. Can't race with the windows down. Racing Day over...
It also helps when you haven't any battery power to operate the windows.
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i cant remember the weight savings off hand but i thought it was like 10-15lbs a door? yeah having the manual stuff is nice incase of electrical problems. i went to manual windows, locks etc. its a little akward around the door bars but nothing that bothers me.
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Verdad Gallardo When I switched mine from electric to manual I weighed everything and going off memory its been a few years it was less than 2lbs difference total. I switched to manual for two reasons, no more window motors to go out and then I could roll the windows up or down without the power being on or even a battery in the car.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
From: Woodlawn IL
I run a aftermarket harness for the engine/trans in one of my cars and deleted everything else except one circuit that I made to run a tail light for racing at night/one to run a cooling fan and one for the electric water pump. And the factory harness for the power window and all together the power widow harness with the module might weigh 2 pounds.
If you cut the wiring harness open and take out just the circuits for the power windows there are a couple wires that goto the drivers door switch, and two that goto the passenger door switch. They attach to the power window module that runs the express down on the drivers door. When you get the whole circuit out thats all you got. I hooked the wire that went to the fuse to power and the other to ground and every thing works just like factory. Its nice if its hot and I am in the lanes or at the time slip shack cause you can still roll the windows down with ease.
I heard it was about 2 lbs per door myself also to switch to manual windows. If it were 10 I might switch but for 2 I will hold off as I like the convienence of the power ones. Just lazy I guess LOL
Got them installed and the clearance is much better than I expected. Couldn't be happier with going manual. I can put my windows down and not wonder if they will got back up 
