minytrker

iTrader: (13)

Did you ever consider a carb hat or whatever part is the turbo carb guys use before going to the hood scoop? I thought of buying one and ducting the air from the front of the bumper. I am just worried about choking off the motor with the hat.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

I wouldnt do that on a N/A set up ... JMO.

We used an airbell on ours then added a scoop.... our set up is alot taller than most normal ones though.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You wouldn't be happy with the goals I have... you wouldn't want to race my junk. Plus, building it, that's the part I enjoy I think the most.

Just a thought about the center fastners, I think smkn95's got his joe van o hood set up with a couple fastners in the center. I don't know if he's got it cut so it doesn't touch the windshield or not, last picture I saw it looked like the hood was right to the glass.

Maybe it's just the nature of the pin on hood to want to lift off, all the pin on's are pretty light/flexible, if the factory hood was the same way I'd guess it would also want to do the same thing.

ROBS SS

iTrader: (7)

atv do you have any fastners near the center of the cowl?

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

nope.

StreetSilverado

iTrader: (17)

I'm running a carb hat on top of mine. I've already done the carb hat vs open 4150TB and the IAT's were ridiculous. I'm running a SUX2BU style ram air out in the front bumper.

When I ran an open throttle body the IATS' never got below 152*. I lost two tenths, it's tuned to not pull timing also.

Put the carb. hat back on and my IATS never see over 95* in the hot Texas heat. Never saw anything higher than 54* this past weekend

Although any type of scoop or running without a hood period would be even better; I would think.

ROBS SS

iTrader: (7)

we put fastners in the back by the cowl to help keep the hood down, although now we are thinking we need to make a air pan to pick up cold air from the front since the back is all closed off

Broke EF

So do we think that the TA hood is more prone to lifting because of the nostril scoops? I wonder if we should block them off on our car...

Sean

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Hate to thread hijack but since most guys in here have the style hood im interested in this is probably the best place.

Im interested in the VFN Fiberglass hood for my 98 Formula that goes all the way to the windshield. Im wondering how difficult it is for you guys to take the hood off by yourself. The site says it weight 16 lbs but the only thing id be afraid of is not being able to remove the hood at the track or in my shop when nobody else is around.

Thanks for the input!

WhiteLTone

iTrader: (18)

i have the extended sunoco hood on my lt1 car and i take it off all the time, its not painted yet and im really overly careful with it but i can easily undo all the dzus and grab the hood by the back of the scoop near windshield and up front near bumper and lift off to rest on top of my roof/t-tops. im not sure what mine weighs, thought about 12lbs?? maybe im not sure.

-another off topic question about extended hoods - does anyone have any pictures of air try assembly or something of the sort, i have a carb and im looking to build/buy somethings to seal the carb off and draw air in from rear? i forgot the exact terminology of what its called.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

"Cowl Induction"

It shouldnt be hard, just make a tray that will bolt to top of the carb and seal to the hood when you close it

WhiteLTone

iTrader: (18)

right, but what im wondering is, if my extended hood goes all the way to the windshield, i'll have to trim it back to allow air to enter in, right?

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Yea for sure, the old school ones have the vacuum operated flap on top that opens when you are on the throttle, a setup like that would be neat but its added weight

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

My nostril scoops are sealed off and I do not have a air dam on the lower front to pull air into the rad.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I'd imagine if you did open up the nostril's the hood would REALLY want to take off...

Air damn wouldn't really be a good idea either, anything forcign air into the engine bay, is probably a bad idea.


Another idea, with the airpan, if you did make one that attached to the top of the carb, and sealed to the hood, and just cut the center portion of that hits the windshield, that would probably work to give the engine a good bit of air. But, you lose the look of the hood coming to the glass..

I can see a pan being made that would do this, and sit right to the base of the glass, something like that. Old school style.

WhiteLTone

iTrader: (18)

Yea its on the "to do" list, just trying to figure out my best options as of now..

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Top of our TB was about 1.5"- 2" from the hood.

If you have 4-6" maybe a airpan from the front to the TB would work good but still doesnt help get the trapped air out.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Jesus that intake is tall you have on there.

Maybe the issue with the "trapped air" would be better solved by doing something to help eliminate some of the air that's coming in, like closing off the nose... maybe a solid nose with no fog light holes, smaller/no vents in the corners, like the 1 pc deal that Kemph has on the white car.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

We have 2" of spacer under the TB but it likes them.

I have the firebird front with all the lights in it (pretty much closed off)
The car is low as hell, has less than 1" of travel in the front end and no air dam. Not sure if we can do much better as far as keeping air out.


I think I/we are making more of it than it is.... but maybe there is some gain in it. Dont knowfor sure..... anyone have a wind tunnel? LOL !

Grr

iTrader: (2)

isnt it common knowledge that the lower half of the windsheild and cowl area is one of the highest pressure areas on a vehicle? I would assume that opening the rear of the hood up in that area would actually let MORE air in under the hood and make it rise up? IMHO you would want that area sealed off completely, as the front half to 2/3 of the hood is a lower pressure area that could evacuate air. Case in point this aerodynamic profile of a FC rx7 clearly illustrates this phenomenon

Or is my basic auto physics completely backwards?