anyone heard of the 4L60E "power gear" upgrade ?
12-17-2010, 09:09 AM
#24
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Yeah 300 pounds will cost you something. It will turn your street car into a race car. And the same car you strip 300 pounds from to gain the time reduction could still further benefit from the better gear ratios. So whats your point? You don't make any sense and your post has no logic. You obviously don't think this is a worthy upgrade for the money. I personally would rather gain the .3 from this mod then destroying my car through mindless weight reduction.
12-17-2010, 10:27 AM
#25
My post has perfect logic, Weight to HP ratio. Like stated there are people out there that may want it. If they have the cash, and really do not want to get too into their car. As for weight reduction, its approx 1 tenth per 100 pounds. Some people gotta be able to Live with out certain things or just remove for "Race Day" where ET matters.
22..Bumper, front reinforcement and brackets
21..Bumper, rear reinforcement and brackets
15..Sound deadening (peel the backing off the stock carpet)
15..AC compressor
8.6.AC condenser
21..AC fan motor (entire assembly)
5...Coolant Overflow
13..Firewall Insulation w/ plastic (heavy rubber stuff)
5...Floormats
8...Heat sheilding
28..Seats, rear (leather)
9...Seatbelts (rears and passenger's)
40..Seat, passenger (leather)
14..Swaybar and brackets, front
8...Windshield washer fluid
37..Spare tire and jack
-------
So far thats 270 (rounded), not much work needed, except the AC which lets say you dont do that your still @ 225 With out spending a dime. Thats 2 solid tenths and all can be reinstalled at the end of the event. I'm not even touch hood/truck shocks, or radio/changer/speakers, door skins still in place, passanger side seat belt in there.
Now we still have 1100$ to play with and for a decent price you can get a used set of Centerlines or Weld Draglites with Tires for about 400$, throw in a K member, or a host of other things. Another thing that comes to mind is DHM Fab has Carbon Fiber Door Skins which weigh ALMOST nothing and saves a ton over stock door skins and I think are 100$ each.
I get to work on 9 and 8 second cars and you learn stuff the average guy does not and beleive me I got my Mentor here who wants me to do a total GUT of my car and I wont. BUT I found a lot of weight that can be removed with little work.
You will waste SOOOOOOO much money once that tranny frags, and IT WILL, in your subsequent rebuilds.
I think I make perfect sense but no one needs to subscribe to my Logic.
22..Bumper, front reinforcement and brackets
21..Bumper, rear reinforcement and brackets
15..Sound deadening (peel the backing off the stock carpet)
15..AC compressor
8.6.AC condenser
21..AC fan motor (entire assembly)
5...Coolant Overflow
13..Firewall Insulation w/ plastic (heavy rubber stuff)
5...Floormats
8...Heat sheilding
28..Seats, rear (leather)
9...Seatbelts (rears and passenger's)
40..Seat, passenger (leather)
14..Swaybar and brackets, front
8...Windshield washer fluid
37..Spare tire and jack
-------
So far thats 270 (rounded), not much work needed, except the AC which lets say you dont do that your still @ 225 With out spending a dime. Thats 2 solid tenths and all can be reinstalled at the end of the event. I'm not even touch hood/truck shocks, or radio/changer/speakers, door skins still in place, passanger side seat belt in there.
Now we still have 1100$ to play with and for a decent price you can get a used set of Centerlines or Weld Draglites with Tires for about 400$, throw in a K member, or a host of other things. Another thing that comes to mind is DHM Fab has Carbon Fiber Door Skins which weigh ALMOST nothing and saves a ton over stock door skins and I think are 100$ each.
I get to work on 9 and 8 second cars and you learn stuff the average guy does not and beleive me I got my Mentor here who wants me to do a total GUT of my car and I wont. BUT I found a lot of weight that can be removed with little work.
You will waste SOOOOOOO much money once that tranny frags, and IT WILL, in your subsequent rebuilds.
I think I make perfect sense but no one needs to subscribe to my Logic.
12-17-2010, 10:40 AM
#26
** To add to my thought.
Do the weight reduction I mentioned, @ 225.
Used Drag Rim and Tires 500 (call it there)
Nitrous Kit 100 Shot 500-600
Run Mixed Race Gas Should only have 3-4 gallons in the tank anyways. TR-6 plugs, and Resistor Mod to trick the car into pulling some timing.
2 Tenths from Weight Reduction, 2-3 tenths From Tire set up (assuming better 60 Foot), Lets say 5 Tenths from the Shot. My 1100.00 is easily 1 Second, probably more as I am underrating the Nitrous.
Do the weight reduction I mentioned, @ 225.
Used Drag Rim and Tires 500 (call it there)
Nitrous Kit 100 Shot 500-600
Run Mixed Race Gas Should only have 3-4 gallons in the tank anyways. TR-6 plugs, and Resistor Mod to trick the car into pulling some timing.
2 Tenths from Weight Reduction, 2-3 tenths From Tire set up (assuming better 60 Foot), Lets say 5 Tenths from the Shot. My 1100.00 is easily 1 Second, probably more as I am underrating the Nitrous.
05-31-2012, 08:35 PM
#28
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Okay, I have news to report. I actually bought one of these and tried it in my Impala SS (A pretty heavy car) with the hope of going faster. It appears that the Impala is too heavy for this to be effective. I actually need the 3.06 low gear to get the boat moving. While it didn't really hurt, it didn't help either.
That said, if someone wants to try one without spending the $1200.00, I am selling mine for $ 750.00, which includes shipping. Mine has 12 runs on it and is in perfect condition.
That said, if someone wants to try one without spending the $1200.00, I am selling mine for $ 750.00, which includes shipping. Mine has 12 runs on it and is in perfect condition.
06-01-2012, 06:23 PM
#29
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Okay, I have news to report. I actually bought one of these and tried it in my Impala SS (A pretty heavy car) with the hope of going faster. It appears that the Impala is too heavy for this to be effective. I actually need the 3.06 low gear to get the boat moving. While it didn't really hurt, it didn't help either.
That said, if someone wants to try one without spending the $1200.00, I am selling mine for $ 750.00, which includes shipping. Mine has 12 runs on it and is in perfect condition.
That said, if someone wants to try one without spending the $1200.00, I am selling mine for $ 750.00, which includes shipping. Mine has 12 runs on it and is in perfect condition.
I do have a couple questions for you,
how much rpm did you gain in the shift extension between 1-2 and 2-3? Right now I am seeing an average of 1400 between 1-2 and 1200 between 2-3, and that sucks.
Did you change your converter at all when you did the swap?
I am planning on doing a results thread once I finish it seeing as how there is so little data available on these out there. Good or bad hopefully that will help anyone in the future who is considering this.
06-02-2012, 08:05 AM
#33
Problem I see with this, is that it's still going to be a **** poor 4l junkie e transmission...... It might make you as fast as you'd be with a turbo 400, but this transmission is still going to fail quickly if you are making any power.... And by the time you have built the pos 4 l junkie with this gear set, you could have already bought a good th400.... So it's a total waste from what I see.
06-02-2012, 12:27 PM
#34
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Problem I see with this, is that it's still going to be a **** poor 4l junkie e transmission...... It might make you as fast as you'd be with a turbo 400, but this transmission is still going to fail quickly if you are making any power.... And by the time you have built the pos 4 l junkie with this gear set, you could have already bought a good th400.... So it's a total waste from what I see.
06-02-2012, 12:40 PM
#35
Already having a converter is a 1/2 *** reason not to swap to a real transmission.... go ahead and keep that junkie in there, spend another 1500 to change the gears in it, and as soon as you start running in the single digit range it will fail, on a regular basis.... been around this TOO long and have seen it TOO many times.
Once you get the car into the single digits and put the needed safety stuff in it, you won't want to be putting any miles on it anyway, couple whacks on that bar above your head getting in and out and you'll be all done driving the car anyway... so again, I would tell you it's not worth it, if you're going to push it into the single digit range, save the money and do it the right way the first time and be done.
I wouldn't say any of this had I not lived thru the evolution of a car from one level to the next.. believe me when I say you'll save so much money in the long run doing it once and doing it right then trying to get away with something that's really not going to survive what you're putting to it, that you'll be able to pay your house off 5 years sooner, whether you want to believe it or not.
Once you get the car into the single digits and put the needed safety stuff in it, you won't want to be putting any miles on it anyway, couple whacks on that bar above your head getting in and out and you'll be all done driving the car anyway... so again, I would tell you it's not worth it, if you're going to push it into the single digit range, save the money and do it the right way the first time and be done.
I wouldn't say any of this had I not lived thru the evolution of a car from one level to the next.. believe me when I say you'll save so much money in the long run doing it once and doing it right then trying to get away with something that's really not going to survive what you're putting to it, that you'll be able to pay your house off 5 years sooner, whether you want to believe it or not.
06-02-2012, 01:34 PM
#36
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Already having a converter is a 1/2 *** reason not to swap to a real transmission.... go ahead and keep that junkie in there, spend another 1500 to change the gears in it, and as soon as you start running in the single digit range it will fail, on a regular basis.... been around this TOO long and have seen it TOO many times.
Once you get the car into the single digits and put the needed safety stuff in it, you won't want to be putting any miles on it anyway, couple whacks on that bar above your head getting in and out and you'll be all done driving the car anyway... so again, I would tell you it's not worth it, if you're going to push it into the single digit range, save the money and do it the right way the first time and be done.
I wouldn't say any of this had I not lived thru the evolution of a car from one level to the next.. believe me when I say you'll save so much money in the long run doing it once and doing it right then trying to get away with something that's really not going to survive what you're putting to it, that you'll be able to pay your house off 5 years sooner, whether you want to believe it or not.
Once you get the car into the single digits and put the needed safety stuff in it, you won't want to be putting any miles on it anyway, couple whacks on that bar above your head getting in and out and you'll be all done driving the car anyway... so again, I would tell you it's not worth it, if you're going to push it into the single digit range, save the money and do it the right way the first time and be done.
I wouldn't say any of this had I not lived thru the evolution of a car from one level to the next.. believe me when I say you'll save so much money in the long run doing it once and doing it right then trying to get away with something that's really not going to survive what you're putting to it, that you'll be able to pay your house off 5 years sooner, whether you want to believe it or not.
I have been running this combo for a few years, and its not going much further. I built it to do what it does. Its a driver that I can use for anything I want. It is not going to get a cage or any of that, so any of those issues are not my concern. This isn't the first car I have built so I know about how things can get out of control, but that's not a problem as I have another build in process for that.
Don't get me wrong, if I were going racing every weekend, or this car was going to be capable making much more power, than I would not use this trans. I knew about the longevity issues even before I bought the gearset.
06-03-2012, 10:41 AM
#39
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The problem with these units is that everyone writes them off because they cost alot to build right, and its very important to have an experienced builder with a proven track record of success like FLT, RPM, Rossler and a few others build them. The local joe transmission guy builds are where people run into trouble.
That being said, the trans does have its limits, and considering the cost, application, and what your goals are, other units start to make alot of sense, so JL has a point.
