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1998 Formula Firebird drag build-Bright Purple Metallic

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Old 01-01-2011, 11:05 AM
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Finished stripping the useless underhood wiring out. I left all the headlight wiring but im pretty sure ill be pulling the headlight assemblies out and solid mounting the covers, so ill have to tear all of that out too.



Here are the before pics of the cowl, I knew id need to do it before I got the motor in so today I bit the bullet and chopped it out. Ill need to pick up some sheetmetal to finish it up.







You can see in this pic the metal removed from under the fenders
Old 01-01-2011, 05:33 PM
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Cut off my hood strut mounts today


Then I cut out the T-top well.




Im going to cut out the drops to the left and right of the frame as well but im going to wait until I get the mini tubs and cut out the wheel wells so I can do it all at once.
Old 01-01-2011, 05:52 PM
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Removing the hood strut mounts is a good idea! Now I'm gonna do that to my car when the VFN hood arrives
Old 01-01-2011, 06:09 PM
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nice work, what a bitch the much have been to remove the armrest metal behind the hoop with tunel bars.

Ya I removed my hood strut mounts, you can do the same with the hood bumper metal in the front, those are 3-5pounds.
Old 01-01-2011, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by studderin
nice work, what a bitch the much have been to remove the armrest metal behind the hoop with tunel bars.

Ya I removed my hood strut mounts, you can do the same with the hood bumper metal in the front, those are 3-5pounds.
I was going to ask if those could be removed, ill just have to pull my fuse boxes back out again.

Yea the armrests really suck with the bars, thats why I havent finished it yet lol
Old 01-01-2011, 08:51 PM
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you trim the front frame horns and all that?


If your going to keep the brake lines like that, take the braket off and make a simple bar of alum with 1 home on each end. Put a little twist in it, and just use one hole on the frame and one side of the block. that bracket is heavy and overkill. Of when you get the Kmember just make new brake lines if you wnat it to look nice. heat shields too... booooo
Old 01-01-2011, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by studderin
you trim the front frame horns and all that?


If your going to keep the brake lines like that, take the braket off and make a simple bar of alum with 1 home on each end. Put a little twist in it, and just use one hole on the frame and one side of the block. that bracket is heavy and overkill. Of when you get the Kmember just make new brake lines if you wnat it to look nice. heat shields too... booooo
Im going to run a burkhart front bumper support which bolts to the frame horns, need to run that because im running a 3 or 4 gal fuel cell in it. Im going to trim around the horns though once I get it to keep it all light.

Yea that kit is nice for a street car but I was planning on doing somehting to that effect. Im going to run a Midwest K member setup eventually, and if so ill make all new brake lines then sell that kit complete. The heat shields are crazy light lol, I just kept em to keep the lines from going everywhere, ill make something to gold them in the plastic bracket.
Old 01-02-2011, 07:07 AM
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Gut the whole harnes out and race wire, it, you can thank me later when it's that much cleaner and easier to figure out wtf does what LOL.

The brake lines, just cut them all off and redo them when you have all the fab work done, you can thank me for that too... when you see hoe much cleaner it will be, you'll understand.

Too bad you're not on the east coast, I have one of the bumper supports you want for sale, 200 local pickup, or of you want to cover the shipping on it.... I'll ship it.
Old 01-02-2011, 07:08 AM
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weigh that t top well too if ya can, and then scrape the mat otu of it and get another weight on that, everyone always wants to know what it weigh's....

Weigh the replacement panel that goes in it's place too, so we know what's really saved by doing that!
Old 01-02-2011, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
weigh that t top well too if ya can, and then scrape the mat otu of it and get another weight on that, everyone always wants to know what it weigh's....

Weigh the replacement panel that goes in it's place too, so we know what's really saved by doing that!
Ill try, mine has a notch out of it but its not very big. The plate for the cage was welded to it so now im going to bend the plate up so its flat and weld it to the replacement panel. Im ordering the mini tubs today so once I get them and cut out the wheel wells im cutting out the drops to the left and right of the frame in the rear.

Would you be able to get me a quote on shipping it y chance to 92504?
Old 01-02-2011, 03:18 PM
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I know it cost me about 40 bucks to have mine shipped to me from burkhart, I'm going to guess at least that much. Problem with shipping it, is the size of the box....

I could wrap it up in cardboard and try to drop it off like that, but I can't promise the condition it will get there in.... and UPS probably won't either in that case. It's strong don't get me wrong but you know how that goes.
Old 01-02-2011, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I know it cost me about 40 bucks to have mine shipped to me from burkhart, I'm going to guess at least that much. Problem with shipping it, is the size of the box....

I could wrap it up in cardboard and try to drop it off like that, but I can't promise the condition it will get there in.... and UPS probably won't either in that case. It's strong don't get me wrong but you know how that goes.
Yep, is it bare or powdercoated?
Old 01-02-2011, 03:37 PM
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I painted it with a black epoxy-urethane paint... the stuff is as touch as powdercoat... it's not quite as nice, but it holds up really well.

I will put another coat on before I sell it just for the sake of doing so.. there's a couple spots where the bumper rubbed thru it, but that's to be expected with this sort of thing, wether it's painted, powdercoated, etc.

Fwiw, I think I was the first or 2nd person to buy one from burkhart, and probably was one of the people that pushed them to make it, back a couple years ago
Old 01-02-2011, 03:46 PM
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ok that sounds reasonable. Doesnt really matter cause ill be welding to it anyway. Ill see if I can throw the coin together and get back to you.

I know you have done alotof metal removal from your car, what gauge metal did you use to fill? Im thinking 16ga for finishing around the tubs and trunk bu dont want to go too heavy.
Old 01-04-2011, 08:00 PM
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Not much to update except that I bought a good quality spot weld cutter so I dont have to keep replacing my harbor freight ones. I also called MadMan today and ordered the Wolfe Mini Tubs and Kirkey seat bracket for the drivers side. Im not sure if ill run one on the passenger side or just make my own since it really doesnt have to be adjustable and will almost never be in there anyway.
Old 01-05-2011, 06:56 PM
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Got my front cooling block adapters from Motovative Performance. They are nice peices, and being able to use the 3/4 npt fittings will save about $40 over the o ringed fittings.
Old 01-05-2011, 08:22 PM
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Happy to help out!
Old 01-16-2011, 10:57 PM
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Got my racecraft seat bracket last week, I havent mounted it yet because it will be a while before im ready for the seat.

Friday my Mini tubs showed up so today I cut out the passenger side wheel well and drop down behind it.





I still have a good bit more trimming to do before it will sit how I want it to, then ill fill in the back with sheetmetal and start cutting out the other side. The driver side will take a good amount of fab work since im also removing the metal around the filler.

My current issue is trying to find a welder. Glanced around looking for a nice Lincoln MIG but either they sell quick or only flakes sell welders because I havent gotten a single f'n response. Thats kind of a crucial tool when installing tubs.
Old 01-17-2011, 10:10 AM
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Good work, I'll have to cut the t top well out soon too once the car is off jack stands.
Old 01-17-2011, 12:19 PM
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so how much did the t top well weigh?


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