Cutting the radiator support?
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 2
From: Sterling Heights, MI
exactly. Im looking at at least a 2 month window of downtime where the car will have to be moved at least once a week.
I dont care if you think its easier to pull it from the bottom, ive pulled a bunch of old school sbc/bbc out the top and its nothing... not to mention i have nothing to take off the front of my motor, the heads and intake are already off, as well as the sensors. All im going to have to do is hook up the hoist ubolt the motor mounts abd slide the bitch out. Initially looking at it it seems like it would be possible only if the rad support was cut, but its def not looking like that now
if i dont have an extra valley cover, where do you think would be the next best place to pull it from though? ive always had a carb adapter puller thing to do it from lol. One of my friends said from the center row of head bolt holes but that really sounds like a disaster waiting to hppen IMO
I cant remember off hand on the rear but on the front there are a few holes that can be used. I wouldnt use the head bolt hole unless there wasnt another place to put a bolt through.
There bolt holes in the back of the heads works fine. I usually take a piece of chain, put it across the back and across the front and bolt it up, leave enough slack to get them together in the center and hook both pieces with the hoist.
The lifting plate I made is the cat's ***... it sits really down in the center of the motor and makes the whole maneuvering a good it easier.
If I had some steel plate I could make one of these things pretty easy too, just trace out a valley cover, grind it so it fits between the heads ocne it's cut, drill the holes, then weld a big hook tab in the middle. Easy/simple thing to make.
Every time I see someone take the motor out the bottom I shake my head. Anyone that's built an ls motor, knows that it's at least 2 to 3 months to get one done, and that's IF you are doing a standard off the shelf nothing special deal. Start with custom parts, plan on 6 months LOL.
I don't know about you, but if I had a lift... I wouldn't be able to tie it up with one car hanging off it for that long. And due to the motor timeframe being so open 99% of the time, you can't even plan on the motor being there and done before you start taking the car apart, as that never really happens either.
Out the top. Don't be a ***** LOL.
The lifting plate I made is the cat's ***... it sits really down in the center of the motor and makes the whole maneuvering a good it easier.
If I had some steel plate I could make one of these things pretty easy too, just trace out a valley cover, grind it so it fits between the heads ocne it's cut, drill the holes, then weld a big hook tab in the middle. Easy/simple thing to make.
Every time I see someone take the motor out the bottom I shake my head. Anyone that's built an ls motor, knows that it's at least 2 to 3 months to get one done, and that's IF you are doing a standard off the shelf nothing special deal. Start with custom parts, plan on 6 months LOL.
I don't know about you, but if I had a lift... I wouldn't be able to tie it up with one car hanging off it for that long. And due to the motor timeframe being so open 99% of the time, you can't even plan on the motor being there and done before you start taking the car apart, as that never really happens either.
Out the top. Don't be a ***** LOL.
I used a carb engine pulling plate, with a full length top "T" support so it has 3 holes to hook too. Bolt that right to block (with studs) on the front 4 valley cover bolts. You just have to slot the holes a little in the plate I have. it works great. a stock rad support you have to angle the motor a bit to fit the ballencer out, but with mine notched for the SUX2BU 4inch intake ducts it clears perfect with the ballencer still on, with this plate hooked up low you can keep the hood on too.
this one looks like it slotted to work already. no big deal just use a washer over the slot on studs the go into the block threads all the way
http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL101.../dp/B003BZQQWM
installed a motor once with a th350 trans thu the top, because I didnt have help later to get the trans on the floor jack under the car (I can do it now alone), and just wanted it done then a few years ago. That was a bitch. its a ton of weight on the front of the motor, but you need it to be 45* to "shoe horn" in from the top. And someone has to get in the engine bay up near the firewall and hold the tailshaft up over the Kmember. If it came loose you'd get squished. don't do that. but me and I know newera dose it out the time.. it might be 30mins faster out the bottom but they have have a car you can't move, and more parts off it to deal with. If you have as long as you want to take your time and take up 2 car spots, go out the bottom. Its really what every you want, one isn't better for everyone.
this one looks like it slotted to work already. no big deal just use a washer over the slot on studs the go into the block threads all the way
http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL101.../dp/B003BZQQWM
installed a motor once with a th350 trans thu the top, because I didnt have help later to get the trans on the floor jack under the car (I can do it now alone), and just wanted it done then a few years ago. That was a bitch. its a ton of weight on the front of the motor, but you need it to be 45* to "shoe horn" in from the top. And someone has to get in the engine bay up near the firewall and hold the tailshaft up over the Kmember. If it came loose you'd get squished. don't do that. but me and I know newera dose it out the time.. it might be 30mins faster out the bottom but they have have a car you can't move, and more parts off it to deal with. If you have as long as you want to take your time and take up 2 car spots, go out the bottom. Its really what every you want, one isn't better for everyone.
Last edited by studderin; Dec 22, 2010 at 06:05 PM.
