Lightweight carpet
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Lightweight carpet any ideas where to get the ozite carpet for a good price, yourautotrim.com has it for 15 bucks a yard and i have been told i need 5 yards to do my whole car and thats pretty expensive. give me some other places 
...my girlfriend wants to get me this for x-mas and im trying to save her some money haha...
...my girlfriend wants to get me this for x-mas and im trying to save her some money haha... I found rolls of unbacked black auto carpet at Wal-Mart for
dirt cheap, but it doesn't match the interior color all that
well (too black). Don't know if they still have it. I used
indoor-outdoor carpet for my old rat style El Camino. You
might be looking for a little more upscale.
dirt cheap, but it doesn't match the interior color all that
well (too black). Don't know if they still have it. I used
indoor-outdoor carpet for my old rat style El Camino. You
might be looking for a little more upscale.
Just spend the $.. that stuff from yourautotrim, actually matches color wise perfect, and it easy to work with. 4 yards can do the job, but there's not alot of room for error in the length position. If you leave the trunk liner in the car, 4 will be enough.
I've seen some other stuff people have used... and believe me, the look when it's done, isn't there like it is with the yourautotrim stuff IMO
I've seen some other stuff people have used... and believe me, the look when it's done, isn't there like it is with the yourautotrim stuff IMO
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From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
yourautotrim sells a nice continuous piece of carpet....better than piecemealing a bunch of smaller sections together.
I was forced to cut mine in two due to my cage design though
I was forced to cut mine in two due to my cage design though
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From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
I deleted the t-top well in mine so I had to use other carpeting to cover...but if I kept it, I would just use the OEM carpet back there...its thin and conforms to the cavity nicely...something that would be difficult to do with ozite.
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Brett Foote I was going to just leave the back wall of the factory trunk liner, and use ozite to cover the t top well delete. It should look decent... getting the carpet to conform to the back wall, as fireball stated, will be a pita for sure. If you can reuse that, I would, or at least part of it if possible.
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well i ordered 5 yards and am ready to do this !, any pointers ? i got the 3m Adhesive...how do i go about this, take the stock carpet out and lay the ozite on top and cut to match ? or is there a better way ?
Get the interior out of the car. Get teh carpet, pay it out flat, and let it sit overnight if possible, so it's somewhat flat. Then, pull the whole thing into the car.
Start in the middle, stretch as MUCH as possible, to get it to conform to the floor. Use books, bowling *****, heavy fat kids, anything you can find to weight it down. Longer you spend getting it to fit, the better.
Once you have it stretched, start gluing. Spray glue on the floor and the carpet, then stick down, hold in place until it's dry, usually a couple min. If you stretch and get triangle's in the corners (you will know what I mean when you do this, it will be an overlap, resulting in a triabgle shape that you can cut out) just take your time and cut, then glue down, and keep the seams tight. It will come out good. Rear seat humps are the biggest pita. This will take some time, again the fit kid and weights will help.
Once you get that done, you may, have to do some more seaming, to get the excess off It may, depending on how good you end up getting everything up to the rear seats, be a good idea to cut it off, use the strait edge in the back to lay it across where the trunk liner and carpet meet, and work your way forward from this point down into the seat well's. I've done it this way and have had good luck.
Just take your time, stretch, stretch and when you're done, stretch it some more. More time you have to let it sit stretched the better, it will glue down better and end up looking alot nicer. DAP wood contact cement, will work good to hold it down under your feet. It's a BITCH to get off, and will require a heat gun and scraping if you want to remove it... but under your feet, it's a good idea. Everywhere else, just the spray adhesive will do the job. On large flat area's I never use alot of the glue, no need.
I've done several cars with this stuff for people in the CT area... if you were around here, I'd come give ya a hand.
Start in the middle, stretch as MUCH as possible, to get it to conform to the floor. Use books, bowling *****, heavy fat kids, anything you can find to weight it down. Longer you spend getting it to fit, the better.
Once you have it stretched, start gluing. Spray glue on the floor and the carpet, then stick down, hold in place until it's dry, usually a couple min. If you stretch and get triangle's in the corners (you will know what I mean when you do this, it will be an overlap, resulting in a triabgle shape that you can cut out) just take your time and cut, then glue down, and keep the seams tight. It will come out good. Rear seat humps are the biggest pita. This will take some time, again the fit kid and weights will help.
Once you get that done, you may, have to do some more seaming, to get the excess off It may, depending on how good you end up getting everything up to the rear seats, be a good idea to cut it off, use the strait edge in the back to lay it across where the trunk liner and carpet meet, and work your way forward from this point down into the seat well's. I've done it this way and have had good luck.
Just take your time, stretch, stretch and when you're done, stretch it some more. More time you have to let it sit stretched the better, it will glue down better and end up looking alot nicer. DAP wood contact cement, will work good to hold it down under your feet. It's a BITCH to get off, and will require a heat gun and scraping if you want to remove it... but under your feet, it's a good idea. Everywhere else, just the spray adhesive will do the job. On large flat area's I never use alot of the glue, no need.
I've done several cars with this stuff for people in the CT area... if you were around here, I'd come give ya a hand.
Get the interior out of the car. Get teh carpet, pay it out flat, and let it sit overnight if possible, so it's somewhat flat. Then, pull the whole thing into the car.
Start in the middle, stretch as MUCH as possible, to get it to conform to the floor. Use books, bowling *****, heavy fat kids, anything you can find to weight it down. Longer you spend getting it to fit, the better.
Once you have it stretched, start gluing. Spray glue on the floor and the carpet, then stick down, hold in place until it's dry, usually a couple min. If you stretch and get triangle's in the corners (you will know what I mean when you do this, it will be an overlap, resulting in a triabgle shape that you can cut out) just take your time and cut, then glue down, and keep the seams tight. It will come out good. Rear seat humps are the biggest pita. This will take some time, again the fit kid and weights will help.
Once you get that done, you may, have to do some more seaming, to get the excess off It may, depending on how good you end up getting everything up to the rear seats, be a good idea to cut it off, use the strait edge in the back to lay it across where the trunk liner and carpet meet, and work your way forward from this point down into the seat well's. I've done it this way and have had good luck.
Just take your time, stretch, stretch and when you're done, stretch it some more. More time you have to let it sit stretched the better, it will glue down better and end up looking alot nicer. DAP wood contact cement, will work good to hold it down under your feet. It's a BITCH to get off, and will require a heat gun and scraping if you want to remove it... but under your feet, it's a good idea. Everywhere else, just the spray adhesive will do the job. On large flat area's I never use alot of the glue, no need.
I've done several cars with this stuff for people in the CT area... if you were around here, I'd come give ya a hand.
Start in the middle, stretch as MUCH as possible, to get it to conform to the floor. Use books, bowling *****, heavy fat kids, anything you can find to weight it down. Longer you spend getting it to fit, the better.
Once you have it stretched, start gluing. Spray glue on the floor and the carpet, then stick down, hold in place until it's dry, usually a couple min. If you stretch and get triangle's in the corners (you will know what I mean when you do this, it will be an overlap, resulting in a triabgle shape that you can cut out) just take your time and cut, then glue down, and keep the seams tight. It will come out good. Rear seat humps are the biggest pita. This will take some time, again the fit kid and weights will help.
Once you get that done, you may, have to do some more seaming, to get the excess off It may, depending on how good you end up getting everything up to the rear seats, be a good idea to cut it off, use the strait edge in the back to lay it across where the trunk liner and carpet meet, and work your way forward from this point down into the seat well's. I've done it this way and have had good luck.
Just take your time, stretch, stretch and when you're done, stretch it some more. More time you have to let it sit stretched the better, it will glue down better and end up looking alot nicer. DAP wood contact cement, will work good to hold it down under your feet. It's a BITCH to get off, and will require a heat gun and scraping if you want to remove it... but under your feet, it's a good idea. Everywhere else, just the spray adhesive will do the job. On large flat area's I never use alot of the glue, no need.
I've done several cars with this stuff for people in the CT area... if you were around here, I'd come give ya a hand.
Get the interior out of the car. Get teh carpet, pay it out flat, and let it sit overnight if possible, so it's somewhat flat. Then, pull the whole thing into the car.
Start in the middle, stretch as MUCH as possible, to get it to conform to the floor. Use books, bowling *****, heavy fat kids, anything you can find to weight it down. Longer you spend getting it to fit, the better.
Once you have it stretched, start gluing. Spray glue on the floor and the carpet, then stick down, hold in place until it's dry, usually a couple min. If you stretch and get triangle's in the corners (you will know what I mean when you do this, it will be an overlap, resulting in a triabgle shape that you can cut out) just take your time and cut, then glue down, and keep the seams tight. It will come out good. Rear seat humps are the biggest pita. This will take some time, again the fit kid and weights will help.
Once you get that done, you may, have to do some more seaming, to get the excess off It may, depending on how good you end up getting everything up to the rear seats, be a good idea to cut it off, use the strait edge in the back to lay it across where the trunk liner and carpet meet, and work your way forward from this point down into the seat well's. I've done it this way and have had good luck.
Just take your time, stretch, stretch and when you're done, stretch it some more. More time you have to let it sit stretched the better, it will glue down better and end up looking alot nicer. DAP wood contact cement, will work good to hold it down under your feet. It's a BITCH to get off, and will require a heat gun and scraping if you want to remove it... but under your feet, it's a good idea. Everywhere else, just the spray adhesive will do the job. On large flat area's I never use alot of the glue, no need.
I've done several cars with this stuff for people in the CT area... if you were around here, I'd come give ya a hand.
Start in the middle, stretch as MUCH as possible, to get it to conform to the floor. Use books, bowling *****, heavy fat kids, anything you can find to weight it down. Longer you spend getting it to fit, the better.
Once you have it stretched, start gluing. Spray glue on the floor and the carpet, then stick down, hold in place until it's dry, usually a couple min. If you stretch and get triangle's in the corners (you will know what I mean when you do this, it will be an overlap, resulting in a triabgle shape that you can cut out) just take your time and cut, then glue down, and keep the seams tight. It will come out good. Rear seat humps are the biggest pita. This will take some time, again the fit kid and weights will help.
Once you get that done, you may, have to do some more seaming, to get the excess off It may, depending on how good you end up getting everything up to the rear seats, be a good idea to cut it off, use the strait edge in the back to lay it across where the trunk liner and carpet meet, and work your way forward from this point down into the seat well's. I've done it this way and have had good luck.
Just take your time, stretch, stretch and when you're done, stretch it some more. More time you have to let it sit stretched the better, it will glue down better and end up looking alot nicer. DAP wood contact cement, will work good to hold it down under your feet. It's a BITCH to get off, and will require a heat gun and scraping if you want to remove it... but under your feet, it's a good idea. Everywhere else, just the spray adhesive will do the job. On large flat area's I never use alot of the glue, no need.
I've done several cars with this stuff for people in the CT area... if you were around here, I'd come give ya a hand.
Thread Starter
I write checks with my mouth that my ass can't cash
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Posts: 948
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my buddy weighed his after it was all trimmed and said it was a tad over 4lbs....stock w/o sound stuff is around 35lbs because of heavy rubber matting, lookin at around a 30ish lb drop...
