street/strip suspension: what next?
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street/strip suspension: what next?
my goal is to get my bolt-on M6 street car into the 11's. i'm at a 12.4 right now, and i think i'm ready for the next round of suspension mods. i've always wanted to lower the car, but didnt want to hurt track performance.
now that BMR has those lowering A-arms, i'm thinking about getting a set of those (along with the non-adj uppers) and doing the heater hose mod on the rear. this should allow me to lower the car and not negatively affect the suspension geometry too much. i'm also trying to decide what shocks to go with it. i'm thinking either HAL or strange single adjustable with 275lb springs. again, its a street car, so i dont want anything too radical.
existing suspension/chassis mods are as follows:
welded SFC's
k-member
STB (yeah probably dead weight i should toss)
adjustable LCAs, PHB and torque arm
stock front and rear sway bars with poly end links
moser 12 bolt, mickey thompson et street radials
now that BMR has those lowering A-arms, i'm thinking about getting a set of those (along with the non-adj uppers) and doing the heater hose mod on the rear. this should allow me to lower the car and not negatively affect the suspension geometry too much. i'm also trying to decide what shocks to go with it. i'm thinking either HAL or strange single adjustable with 275lb springs. again, its a street car, so i dont want anything too radical.
existing suspension/chassis mods are as follows:
welded SFC's
k-member
STB (yeah probably dead weight i should toss)
adjustable LCAs, PHB and torque arm
stock front and rear sway bars with poly end links
moser 12 bolt, mickey thompson et street radials
#2
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First thing I would do is remove the front sway bar when you are drag racing the car this will allow the car to transfer weight much better, also shocks would make a huge difference I would either do Strange single adjustables all the way around or if you wanted to kind of cheap out you could run the Starnge single adjustable on the fron and use the Competition Engineering 3 way adjustable shockd for the rear.
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and i thought i read somewhere on here that the 12-bolts cause your rear to sit a little higher... so would the heater hose mod even be adequate on the rear? or would i need a 1" drop to make the rear even with the front on stock springs and the BMR lowering A-arms?
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and i thought i read somewhere on here that the 12-bolts cause your rear to sit a little higher... so would the heater hose mod even be adequate on the rear? or would i need a 1" drop to make the rear even with the front on stock springs and the BMR lowering A-arms?
Kyle
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I have strange double adjustable rear shocks with the isolator removed. Stock front shocks, but I just bought double adj. stranges. The springs are the Eibach drag launch springs, which I have no idea about because they came on the car when I bought it. A good rear sway bar or anti roll bar will be necessary as well, especially on a M6 car. Also, I didn't have any problems with the 12 bolt making the car sit any higher.
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I really haven't seen that issues with 12 bolts I have dealt with but it could definitely happen. If you decided you want to do the BMR front lowering A-arms (AA020) which will lower the front an inch you could do the heater hose mod to the rear which will lower the car .75" which will give the car a little bit of a rake or you could use our BMR rear lowering springs which will give it a more level look and the extra stiffness of the rear spring will help with launching the car. I have guys that are using our lowering springs and cutting low-mid 1.3's with other supporting mods.
Kyle
Kyle
and based on what you're saying, its better to have stiff springs in the rear, but soft springs in the front... and better to have the most adjustable shocks in the rear if you have to cut corners?
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looks like your rear springs are actually 1.25", so it would rake backwards... are strange front shocks height adjust able like the QA1's?
and based on what you're saying, its better to have stiff springs in the rear, but soft springs in the front... and better to have the most adjustable shocks in the rear if you have to cut corners?
and based on what you're saying, its better to have stiff springs in the rear, but soft springs in the front... and better to have the most adjustable shocks in the rear if you have to cut corners?
The car already sits with a rake from the factory so if you lower the front 1" using lowering a-arms and the rear 1.25" using lowering springs it will come out to being very close to being level.
Also like someone else previously stated in this thread there will be a point were an anti-roll bar will really help launching the car and be able to launch the car well on a consistent basis. Launching a 6 speed i s a challenge in itself so having the supporting suspension really helps.
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Find a Quality alignment shop near you!