How will 1/4 mph change with ss3600?
#21
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That is a joke.. if you do a lot of driving over 50mph, then 373s would effect driveability more than a 3600 with 323s.
Put the 3600 in.. if it is too loose for you then consider moving to 373, I guarantee it isn't going to bother you with 323 and 3600.. like I said I did a 4400 with 323s and an ms4 cam.
#22
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Haha I know man..![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
That is a joke.. if you do a lot of driving over 50mph, then 373s would effect driveability more than a 3600 with 323s.
Put the 3600 in.. if it is too loose for you then consider moving to 373, I guarantee it isn't going to bother you with 323 and 3600.. like I said I did a 4400 with 323s and an ms4 cam.
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That is a joke.. if you do a lot of driving over 50mph, then 373s would effect driveability more than a 3600 with 323s.
Put the 3600 in.. if it is too loose for you then consider moving to 373, I guarantee it isn't going to bother you with 323 and 3600.. like I said I did a 4400 with 323s and an ms4 cam.
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#23
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Haha I know man..![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
That is a joke.. if you do a lot of driving over 50mph, then 373s would effect driveability more than a 3600 with 323s.
Put the 3600 in.. if it is too loose for you then consider moving to 373, I guarantee it isn't going to bother you with 323 and 3600.. like I said I did a 4400 with 323s and an ms4 cam.
![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
That is a joke.. if you do a lot of driving over 50mph, then 373s would effect driveability more than a 3600 with 323s.
Put the 3600 in.. if it is too loose for you then consider moving to 373, I guarantee it isn't going to bother you with 323 and 3600.. like I said I did a 4400 with 323s and an ms4 cam.
#24
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Exactly what I've always thought. Everyone is so fast to say 3.73's for an auto but they suck on the highway if you ask me. That's why I'm doing Yank's minimum reccomendation of 3.42's. Not sacrificing mileage and high reving on the highway, yet still enough to make the stall a little more streetable than the stock gears at low speeds.
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I got 3.23's and an FTI 4K stall. I was personally too worried to change the gears due to all the horror stories of gear whine, etc. It won't really matter whether u have 3.23's or 3.73's at the track (like others said: maybe one tenth). However, in around town driving at about half throttle, the car will bog a little between shifts because of the lack of rpm. It does not do it at full throttle. I do have a .612 / .615 lift cam, though. Regardless, I would recommend the 3600 and try the stock gears. You can always change the rear gear later if you're unhappy.
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Haha I know man..![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
That is a joke.. if you do a lot of driving over 50mph, then 373s would effect driveability more than a 3600 with 323s.
Put the 3600 in.. if it is too loose for you then consider moving to 373, I guarantee it isn't going to bother you with 323 and 3600.. like I said I did a 4400 with 323s and an ms4 cam.
![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
That is a joke.. if you do a lot of driving over 50mph, then 373s would effect driveability more than a 3600 with 323s.
Put the 3600 in.. if it is too loose for you then consider moving to 373, I guarantee it isn't going to bother you with 323 and 3600.. like I said I did a 4400 with 323s and an ms4 cam.
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
I got 3.23's and an FTI 4K stall. I was personally too worried to change the gears due to all the horror stories of gear whine, etc. It won't really matter whether u have 3.23's or 3.73's at the track (like others said: maybe one tenth). However, in around town driving at about half throttle, the car will bog a little between shifts because of the lack of rpm. It does not do it at full throttle. I do have a .612 / .615 lift cam, though. Regardless, I would recommend the 3600 and try the stock gears. You can always change the rear gear later if you're unhappy.
#27
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I got 3.23's and an FTI 4K stall. I was personally too worried to change the gears due to all the horror stories of gear whine, etc. It won't really matter whether u have 3.23's or 3.73's at the track (like others said: maybe one tenth). However, in around town driving at about half throttle, the car will bog a little between shifts because of the lack of rpm. It does not do it at full throttle. I do have a .612 / .615 lift cam, though. Regardless, I would recommend the 3600 and try the stock gears. You can always change the rear gear later if you're unhappy.
But in my mind, if you're spending over $700 to install a nice converter, why not spend a little more to get the gears as well to compliment and maximize it?
EZZZE is right though, you can always add them later if you're unhappy. Also, It's also a great excuse to get a mail order/dyno tune if you switch out the gears as well, which is another performance gain
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#28
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Exactly what I've always thought. Everyone is so fast to say 3.73's for an auto but they suck on the highway if you ask me. That's why I'm doing Yank's minimum reccomendation of 3.42's. Not sacrificing mileage and high reving on the highway, yet still enough to make the stall a little more streetable than the stock gears at low speeds.
Also.. i would highly!!! Recommend looking into ptc converters. Not only do they make an amazing converter but hey are only 500 shipped which is a nice plus. I am in the high 1.4x short times.. ptc 4000 full weight 380rwhp 2000+ DA. Buddy has exhaust and lid no tune, ls1 intake, 273s, etc is more than full weight and cuts bottom 1.6x short times with his ptc 4000. Just a thought..
#30
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It should go without saying, but it hasn't been mentioned, make SURE you have an external trans cooler - as a looser converter builds a lot more heat than a stock one...
#31
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This is what I've never understood. Everyone is always so quick to say
"3.23's to 3.42's...thats worthless, waste of money, ect."
and then they also say to the six speed guys
"3.42's to 3.73's...that's worthless, waste of money, ect."
Seems there's not a ton of "worth" there in the first place then, huh? More expensive higher gears, along with the extra gas they suck on a car that sees the strip only a few times a year, and for what? Less than a tenth in the 1/4? THAT seems like a waste of money to me.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...0e-f-body.html
Last edited by MasterTomos; 01-18-2011 at 03:36 PM.
#33
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My car sees a lot of highway miles and when the car is finished, I don't want to hesitate for any reason to drive it across the country if I want, including because it gets shitty gas mileage just so it could be a xx.60 car instead of a xx.70 car in the 1/4.
I see 3.42's as a compromise between the lack of performance in 3.23's (and less streetability with a stall) and the worse gas mileage of 3.73's, and with the price difference, to me it's a no brainer for the setup I want.
#34
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I personaly think I will be fine with the 3.23s. Iv never had a stall in any of my cars so how am I gonna know whats to loose is anyway? I probly WILL think its to loose because im not used to the stall. Theres no way to explain to me over an internet forum exactly how bad the driveability issues are driving around town with 3.23s. Im just gonna have to try it out.
#35
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I got 3.23's and an FTI 4K stall. I was personally too worried to change the gears due to all the horror stories of gear whine, etc. It won't really matter whether u have 3.23's or 3.73's at the track (like others said: maybe one tenth). However, in around town driving at about half throttle, the car will bog a little between shifts because of the lack of rpm. It does not do it at full throttle. I do have a .612 / .615 lift cam, though. Regardless, I would recommend the 3600 and try the stock gears. You can always change the rear gear later if you're unhappy.
First you have a 4000 stall which isnt a 3600. Second, yanks converters are usualy tighter than anyone elses. 3rd, you have a cam. So wouldnt you think I would be MUCH better off considering those things? Im not tryin to be smart, it just seems to be logical no? What do you think?
#36
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I respect your guy's opinion, but I've driven plenty of A4 cars with 3.73's and it's not what I want for my car. I doubt it will make a couple tenths off between 3.42's and 3.73's. When it comes to gearing a manual car, everyone is quick to point out the small difference between 3.42's and 3.73's, but not here for some reason.
My car sees a lot of highway miles and when the car is finished, I don't want to hesitate for any reason to drive it across the country if I want, including because it gets shitty gas mileage just so it could be a xx.60 car instead of a xx.70 car in the 1/4.
I see 3.42's as a compromise between the lack of performance in 3.23's (and less streetability with a stall) and the worse gas mileage of 3.73's, and with the price difference, to me it's a no brainer for the setup I want.
My car sees a lot of highway miles and when the car is finished, I don't want to hesitate for any reason to drive it across the country if I want, including because it gets shitty gas mileage just so it could be a xx.60 car instead of a xx.70 car in the 1/4.
I see 3.42's as a compromise between the lack of performance in 3.23's (and less streetability with a stall) and the worse gas mileage of 3.73's, and with the price difference, to me it's a no brainer for the setup I want.
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I will be DDing a 3.23 geared Formula with a SS4000 Yank and G5X3 once all the parts come in. What everyone is failing to mention is STR. Most higher stalls have at least a 2.5 or better and that effectively makes the car feel like it has a deeper gear at throttle tip in. Personally I'd go SS4000 with your 3.23s and build on that.
#38
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It would be worth it to go from 273 to 342.. No way in Hell would I go from 323 to 342, waste of time and money. If i had the rear and everything sitting there, sure. I wouldn't spend any money on that swap though, not worth it by any means.
Also.. i would highly!!! Recommend looking into ptc converters. Not only do they make an amazing converter but hey are only 500 shipped which is a nice plus. I am in the high 1.4x short times.. ptc 4000 full weight 380rwhp 2000+ DA. Buddy has exhaust and lid no tune, ls1 intake, 273s, etc is more than full weight and cuts bottom 1.6x short times with his ptc 4000. Just a thought..
Also.. i would highly!!! Recommend looking into ptc converters. Not only do they make an amazing converter but hey are only 500 shipped which is a nice plus. I am in the high 1.4x short times.. ptc 4000 full weight 380rwhp 2000+ DA. Buddy has exhaust and lid no tune, ls1 intake, 273s, etc is more than full weight and cuts bottom 1.6x short times with his ptc 4000. Just a thought..
#39
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I personaly think I will be fine with the 3.23s. Iv never had a stall in any of my cars so how am I gonna know whats to loose is anyway? I probly WILL think its to loose because im not used to the stall. Theres no way to explain to me over an internet forum exactly how bad the driveability issues are driving around town with 3.23s. Im just gonna have to try it out.
I doubt you will think it is too loose... Why? Because most are telling you, and you have it in your head, that it will be like driving a 5200 converter.
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Your car bogged between shifts. Well, lemme see if I can pick this apart.
First you have a 4000 stall which isnt a 3600. Second, yanks converters are usualy tighter than anyone elses. 3rd, you have a cam. So wouldnt you think I would be MUCH better off considering those things? Im not tryin to be smart, it just seems to be logical no? What do you think?
First you have a 4000 stall which isnt a 3600. Second, yanks converters are usualy tighter than anyone elses. 3rd, you have a cam. So wouldnt you think I would be MUCH better off considering those things? Im not tryin to be smart, it just seems to be logical no? What do you think?
I will be DDing a 3.23 geared Formula with a SS4000 Yank and G5X3 once all the parts come in. What everyone is failing to mention is STR. Most higher stalls have at least a 2.5 or better and that effectively makes the car feel like it has a deeper gear at throttle tip in. Personally I'd go SS4000 with your 3.23s and build on that.
I as well think you should consider a 4000 over a 3600, I think you would thank us later. And depending on your financial situation I would *seriously look into PTC converters. 500$ shipped to your door and they make one hell of a converter (IMO and from the research I have done (a lot), PTC makes a harder hitting converter than Yank on average).
#40
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I don't look at price when comparing converters because it is often the piece that makes or breaks a combo. It being 500$ is just a NICE plus when most competitors are in the 700$+ range.
I am almost always using my phone to reply but if anyone has any wants my OPINION you are more than welcome to PM me and I will respond with a much more detailed reply/links/etc when I get to the comp. I don't hit on a lot of points/posts because I am too lazy to type a ton on my phone. HAHA
I don't look at price when comparing converters because it is often the piece that makes or breaks a combo. It being 500$ is just a NICE plus when most competitors are in the 700$+ range.
I am almost always using my phone to reply but if anyone has any wants my OPINION you are more than welcome to PM me and I will respond with a much more detailed reply/links/etc when I get to the comp. I don't hit on a lot of points/posts because I am too lazy to type a ton on my phone. HAHA