torque arm relocation crossmember problems
I have a M6 Car that I race and I race it hard. Like 5k Clutch dumping is the way of life of racing this heavy car.
Long story short was out of concern of trying to be fast and not breaking parts, one of my intended purchases was a TQ Relocation cross member.
I use BMR and UMI and I did settle on the UMI due to cost. IMO the BMR unit has a better way of adjusting after the unit is installed. In most cases it is best to have a helper and a lift to see if Aftermarket Y Pipes interfere. My Dynatech SuperMaxx kit did with the UMI unit and I had to grind, luckily I did not lose the holes I needed to keep.
As for the rest, at the time I did do a Poly Trans Mount w/ preload plate and above 75mph there is a vibration. i still have stock engine mounts.
The ONLY time I have seen stuff crack is either it bound in the driveline upon launch or a SOLID trans mount is being used and the launch being so violent. Mostly that comes from the UNI-body not be sufficently tied together. IF anything that goofey set up running off the trans is a God send and knowing how the car will re act and another moveable piece fixed to the chassis is a good thing.
By using a trans mount thats better then stock rubber will help avoid deflection upon accelration, but more maybe needed if a particular car is having bad twisting issues.
IMO the vibrations re worth it, knowing that the driveline is more solid.
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I do NOT like the way BS had to cut yours to make it clear... those 2 holes you don't have anymore might have been needed someday down the road, and now you don't have them, unless you redrill the entire thing, etc. Plus with no slot on the top it's a BITCH to try to adjust the tq arm position, doing that at the track on your back, is NOT happening like I could with my BMR piece... which was really great when getting the car set up.
The madman type arm is still the best deal with the slider on the front, the height adjustment holes on the crossmember and on the rear end bracket, I'd really like to see him make a crossmember for a glide/TH350/400, and a longer version of his arm, with the same adjustments on the front and back that his current design has. Build a good DS loop into the arm, and one on the back of the tq arm, and you'd have a killer piece with the needed safety built right in

Brian...... ever done one like this, did it work better, worse, any reason not to do it?








