Manual or Auto, N/A drag car
#1
Manual or Auto, N/A drag car
Im done with my v6 swap so now Im starting to focus back on my drag build. The car is an 01 F-body, LS3 with ported heads and cam. I have a 4L80 with a MVB to go behind it and put power to a Fab9. The plan is to have the tranny re-built with some new clutches and add a PT4400 but lately Ive been thinking about how much power will be lost going this route. I also have no idea how to rebuild an auto.
I know a manual tranny inside and out and it would be very easy to build a T56 for my setup. Obviously since I already have the 80 its going to be a lot cheaper to go that route but I could sell it to gain a little cash back. Considering the Tick shift stage 3 kit is only $1400, it wouldnt cost to much more to go manual. Anyway, the question is, in your experience which would be faster? I know the auto will be more consistant and easier on parts. I know the manual will be more fun in every way, slower off the line, but faster on the back half. I also = driver mod so throw that variable out. Considering that the motor will only be making 580-600 at the crank, is the 80 worth it in an all motor car? I have zero experience with auto's, this would be only the second on Ive ever had, the first being my V6 auto I just swapped.
TIA for any insight. The goal for the car is to run mid 10's and hopefully make it into pinks all out and do away with the stereo type on that show.
I know a manual tranny inside and out and it would be very easy to build a T56 for my setup. Obviously since I already have the 80 its going to be a lot cheaper to go that route but I could sell it to gain a little cash back. Considering the Tick shift stage 3 kit is only $1400, it wouldnt cost to much more to go manual. Anyway, the question is, in your experience which would be faster? I know the auto will be more consistant and easier on parts. I know the manual will be more fun in every way, slower off the line, but faster on the back half. I also = driver mod so throw that variable out. Considering that the motor will only be making 580-600 at the crank, is the 80 worth it in an all motor car? I have zero experience with auto's, this would be only the second on Ive ever had, the first being my V6 auto I just swapped.
TIA for any insight. The goal for the car is to run mid 10's and hopefully make it into pinks all out and do away with the stereo type on that show.
#2
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
Due to many factors that T-56 can break easily. Also the suspension requirements are much more involved. Your going to have issues trying to 60 foot the T-56 and there also are bigger inconsistancy with runs.
Being that your staying N/A and as much as I am not a FAN, you could conider a very beefed up 4L60e and pray it stays together or just leave the 4L80e in there. Again it depends on the type of racing and if that parasitic loss is hurting you that much.
From my exp, you always get a guy who ran is best time ever with a m6 trans once but the average are far off the pace. Then you have the auto guy running MAYBE 1-2 tenths slower then the all time best m6 run but its average is far faster in the end.
What class you running??
Being that your staying N/A and as much as I am not a FAN, you could conider a very beefed up 4L60e and pray it stays together or just leave the 4L80e in there. Again it depends on the type of racing and if that parasitic loss is hurting you that much.
From my exp, you always get a guy who ran is best time ever with a m6 trans once but the average are far off the pace. Then you have the auto guy running MAYBE 1-2 tenths slower then the all time best m6 run but its average is far faster in the end.
What class you running??
#3
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
If you are going to try to build a race car with a stick tranny... the problem is going to be the clutch. Only clutch that I would use in a race car is a softloc mcloud, and that's an expensive unit, and you will destroy the first one, maybe the 2nd trying to figure out how to set it up, then spend another grand rebuilding it.... and if you try to take the t56 route, it's going to break just because that tranny isn't meant to be powershifted like it has to be to go as fast as you can...
If you take the liberty/gforce route with a stick, yes that can go faster. Again same issue with the clutch though.
Auto car, put that in, freshen once a season, change fluids every 30 runs or so and it will probably never break on you. i would look at a glide or a TH350 for an n/a car to be totally honest, no need for the 80 in a drag car, overdrive isn't gonna do you any good going down the 1320.
If you stick with the 80, but a manual valve body in it so you can manually shift it, that will end up getting you the best results, you can shift it according to where the motor likes it, short shift it if the nose comes up on ya, etc. That and it will be alot less tuning involved. I think you'd be alot better off with a Th350, 400 or glide though.
8 inch 5500 min converter too for an n/a car. I don't care what the dyno sheet says for power curve or any of that, every car I've worked on over the years, loose *** 5000+ converter always worked better even on cars that made peak power at 6200.
n/a glide car, I'd be looking for a 6200 8 inch converter. Give greg at fti a call about one... he does alot of super stock cars, and that's about what you want for a converter
If you take the liberty/gforce route with a stick, yes that can go faster. Again same issue with the clutch though.
Auto car, put that in, freshen once a season, change fluids every 30 runs or so and it will probably never break on you. i would look at a glide or a TH350 for an n/a car to be totally honest, no need for the 80 in a drag car, overdrive isn't gonna do you any good going down the 1320.
If you stick with the 80, but a manual valve body in it so you can manually shift it, that will end up getting you the best results, you can shift it according to where the motor likes it, short shift it if the nose comes up on ya, etc. That and it will be alot less tuning involved. I think you'd be alot better off with a Th350, 400 or glide though.
8 inch 5500 min converter too for an n/a car. I don't care what the dyno sheet says for power curve or any of that, every car I've worked on over the years, loose *** 5000+ converter always worked better even on cars that made peak power at 6200.
n/a glide car, I'd be looking for a 6200 8 inch converter. Give greg at fti a call about one... he does alot of super stock cars, and that's about what you want for a converter
#4
The only reason I went with the 80 is that 2-3 seasons from now I want to go turbo. And since the LS3 heads/cam combo is pretty tame I figure I could drive it to work once a month. Class? Im pretty sure there is only bracket stuff around here and it's totally gutted so it won't fit into the LSfest stuff either. I've never understood why drag classes require carpet and door panels, who needs that crap? For now it's just a fun drag car, I haven't had one since I got married n had kids. Thanks for the insight fellas, I was looking at running the top clutch that monster and spec have if I did go the manual route along with a faceplated trans to swap in for race day - eventually
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#9
That sucks, but at least we wont have to see Rich on TV anymore.
I guess I could always buy some interior later if I wanted to race in some class. My goal is to have the fastest N/A LS3 fourth Gen...which shouldnt be to hard since no one is on that list yet. Although someone offered to buy my current setup so I too a glimpse at starting with the SI record and moving up from there. He didnt offer enough though.
I guess I could always buy some interior later if I wanted to race in some class. My goal is to have the fastest N/A LS3 fourth Gen...which shouldnt be to hard since no one is on that list yet. Although someone offered to buy my current setup so I too a glimpse at starting with the SI record and moving up from there. He didnt offer enough though.
#16
TECH Addict
iTrader: (69)
This is true, I bought my car new in 2000 and it was a M6 for nine years, The tranny didn't give me much problems but every thing around it did, Like blowing clutches and drive shafts & most of all gears and axles, The M6 was nothing but problems, So i decided to change over to a auto, I like the 4l80 because of the over drive were i can run the 4:30 gear on the street and highway with out winding out the motor and with the manual valve body i dont need the ecm tuned to control the shifts , Plus i like to manual shift it , it jars my teeth every shift and at the track i was cutting 1.30 60ft on foot brake and locking the converter out of second gear and ive not once broke any thing or had not one problem with the tranny since i installed it. I wish i had dont the switch years ago, would have save a lot of money and work & down time because of broken parts.
#19
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
The only people saying to keep the manual is either
A) They don't drag race and B) Prefer to "Rice" from a Roll and like that ability to control the shift as a Roll race is at most 2-3 up shifts and basically 90% of skill is removed.
If I could afford it, this car would have a RMVB 4L80e and done with it. Stuck with the M6 until either A) I blow it up or B) Get enough cash together to buy one.
I will say though I have had enough arguments for the fact that i drive it so little that i could get away with a TH400 but still I like at least some O/D. BUT I have driven a '70 Chevelle with a Th350 from Central Connecticut to Epping Dragway in NH, I was a bit crazy back then....
A) They don't drag race and B) Prefer to "Rice" from a Roll and like that ability to control the shift as a Roll race is at most 2-3 up shifts and basically 90% of skill is removed.
If I could afford it, this car would have a RMVB 4L80e and done with it. Stuck with the M6 until either A) I blow it up or B) Get enough cash together to buy one.
I will say though I have had enough arguments for the fact that i drive it so little that i could get away with a TH400 but still I like at least some O/D. BUT I have driven a '70 Chevelle with a Th350 from Central Connecticut to Epping Dragway in NH, I was a bit crazy back then....
#20
It is fun for me to learn something new...so I am heavily leaning toward the 4L80 now. Especially when I saw this vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzEUy4OLByY
But then I got confused a bit when I watched this one. Why does this car leave so soft with a 5K rpm stall?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSaliFGlD-g
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzEUy4OLByY
But then I got confused a bit when I watched this one. Why does this car leave so soft with a 5K rpm stall?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSaliFGlD-g