Help: 550hp on 28x10.5-15 Et drag
03-11-2011, 08:40 AM
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Help: 550hp on 28x10.5-15 Et drag Hey guys I will be running tomorrow at the imports vs. domestic street wars event at englishtown raceway park and need some last minute tips. Ive never launched my car before at the track and im currently making about 540rwhp 515tq, 3300lbs race weight, built t56 6 speed, moser 9" w/ locker and 4.11 gears,qa1s all around,spohn drag bar, full tubular suspension and basically everything else on a 28x10.5-15 et drag .... What do you guys recommend I launch at? And also any other advice would be great! Thanks!!!
Last edited by z28kidd; 03-11-2011 at 09:03 AM.
03-11-2011, 09:23 AM
#2
6000 at a minimum.... hope you have a blowproof bellhousing on the car, once you start making that kind of power, and try leaving with all of it... well after seeing one come apart that was enough for me.
You'll need to leave hard to get the most out of it. tires at 12 psi before the burnout, rear shocks at 6, fronts at 3 that's where you need them. Not sure if you have a swaybar on the car, if not then put the right rear at 7 or 8, leave the left at 6... you'll need that to try to stop the car from rolling over too much.
Good luck, get video if you can. You have enough power to run bottom 10 second range I would think.
You'll need to leave hard to get the most out of it. tires at 12 psi before the burnout, rear shocks at 6, fronts at 3 that's where you need them. Not sure if you have a swaybar on the car, if not then put the right rear at 7 or 8, leave the left at 6... you'll need that to try to stop the car from rolling over too much.
Good luck, get video if you can. You have enough power to run bottom 10 second range I would think.
03-14-2011, 11:21 PM
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10.6 @ 130mph 1.53 60 ft was my best, that was on 12psi launching off the rev limiter... i may try to launch around 4600 where i make my peak torque, also my front qa1s are blown so i had to throw on a set of cheap autozone shocks last minute, i think with the qa1s back on, ill have better weight transfer, along with launching where i make my peak torque will get me in the 1.4s hopefully
03-15-2011, 10:59 AM
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Thats a pretty good start. With a 1.53 there is still some room there, like you mentioned hopefully with a new set of qa1's up front it will help weight transfer. 130 is a good trap speed. I would say with a little better 60' the car should be capable of 10.3's.
On a side note do you have any issues running your rear qa1's with that spohn drag bar? I run the same sway bar and have had issues with the shocks rubbing / binding on the sway bar.
On a side note do you have any issues running your rear qa1's with that spohn drag bar? I run the same sway bar and have had issues with the shocks rubbing / binding on the sway bar.
03-15-2011, 05:10 PM
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Thats a pretty good start. With a 1.53 there is still some room there, like you mentioned hopefully with a new set of qa1's up front it will help weight transfer. 130 is a good trap speed. I would say with a little better 60' the car should be capable of 10.3's.
On a side note do you have any issues running your rear qa1's with that spohn drag bar? I run the same sway bar and have had issues with the shocks rubbing / binding on the sway bar.
On a side note do you have any issues running your rear qa1's with that spohn drag bar? I run the same sway bar and have had issues with the shocks rubbing / binding on the sway bar.
also w/ a 28" tire i would go to a 4.56 gear, unless you have spray on the car
congrats on the times
-brandon
03-16-2011, 09:56 AM
#6
With the car's weight, I don't think you'll do a ton better then where you are, the shocks will help, but that's probably not going to make the huge difference ya think it will, you don't need to run them full loose....
4.56 gear would help alot.
I don't think leaving lower will help either... you need the flywheel weight's momentum to stop the engine from bogging, leaving lower, while you might be at peak tq, is going to remove alot of energy from the flywheel that's getting the car moving.
Please, put a scater shield on the car if you don't have one... and if you want to really play with the launch rpm, put a 2 step on it. That's the only way you can actually test launch rpm in an accurate way, and see what's working. Going off a tach, when you're in the car and trying to watch a tree... well it will work as long as you want 1 second reaction times.
4.56 gear would help alot.
I don't think leaving lower will help either... you need the flywheel weight's momentum to stop the engine from bogging, leaving lower, while you might be at peak tq, is going to remove alot of energy from the flywheel that's getting the car moving.
Please, put a scater shield on the car if you don't have one... and if you want to really play with the launch rpm, put a 2 step on it. That's the only way you can actually test launch rpm in an accurate way, and see what's working. Going off a tach, when you're in the car and trying to watch a tree... well it will work as long as you want 1 second reaction times.
03-16-2011, 10:17 AM
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With the car's weight, I don't think you'll do a ton better then where you are, the shocks will help, but that's probably not going to make the huge difference ya think it will, you don't need to run them full loose....
4.56 gear would help alot.
I don't think leaving lower will help either... you need the flywheel weight's momentum to stop the engine from bogging, leaving lower, while you might be at peak tq, is going to remove alot of energy from the flywheel that's getting the car moving.
Please, put a scater shield on the car if you don't have one... and if you want to really play with the launch rpm, put a 2 step on it. That's the only way you can actually test launch rpm in an accurate way, and see what's working. Going off a tach, when you're in the car and trying to watch a tree... well it will work as long as you want 1 second reaction times.
4.56 gear would help alot.
I don't think leaving lower will help either... you need the flywheel weight's momentum to stop the engine from bogging, leaving lower, while you might be at peak tq, is going to remove alot of energy from the flywheel that's getting the car moving.
Please, put a scater shield on the car if you don't have one... and if you want to really play with the launch rpm, put a 2 step on it. That's the only way you can actually test launch rpm in an accurate way, and see what's working. Going off a tach, when you're in the car and trying to watch a tree... well it will work as long as you want 1 second reaction times.
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03-16-2011, 10:20 AM
#8
4.56's probably won't change the trap speed a whole lot, maybe a mph or 2, depends on where the motor is power wise in the curve, and what that does for that... One thing it will do is alot for the 60 foot, 330 foot and 1/8th mile times, it should help that out alot. Probably knock a tenth or 2 off the 1/8th mile times alone, should help on the top 1/2 as well, more speed you generate early, the better off you are.....
03-16-2011, 10:30 AM
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4.56's probably won't change the trap speed a whole lot, maybe a mph or 2, depends on where the motor is power wise in the curve, and what that does for that... One thing it will do is alot for the 60 foot, 330 foot and 1/8th mile times, it should help that out alot. Probably knock a tenth or 2 off the 1/8th mile times alone, should help on the top 1/2 as well, more speed you generate early, the better off you are.....
03-16-2011, 11:57 AM
#10
If you are going to spray it put 4.30's in it, that will still work with nitrous. Not alot, but it will work.
If anything you are going to gain mph... no way dropping the gear is going to hurt it unless you run out of gear, but that shouldn't happen unless you are only turning the motor to 6800 or something silly like that.
If anything you are going to gain mph... no way dropping the gear is going to hurt it unless you run out of gear, but that shouldn't happen unless you are only turning the motor to 6800 or something silly like that.
03-16-2011, 12:02 PM
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actually im almost running out of gear with the 4.11s right now, my shift light is set at 63-6400 and its already on when im passing the 1/4, when the car the dyno'd it only made pulls up to 6227rpm
03-16-2011, 12:38 PM
#12
with a built motor you should be able to spin that to 7200 to 7500 with NO problems.....
Not sure why you're even shifting it that low unless you have a really small cam in it, but if that was the case, it probably wouldn't have made 550 hp either...
Who built the motor, what's in it for a cam, who tuned it and why did they only pull it to 6200 rpm? Now you're starting to make me wonder what's going on here... if you went 106 @ 130 and were shifting this at 6200.. there might be 2 tenth's in the car just shifting it at 7000....
Post up somemore info on the motor, cam, heads, intake, etc.... something's telling me that you aren't even touching the potential of the car.... I still stand by the 4.30's being a help. Either that or a GTO 1, 2, 3 gearset in your trans... either way would get the gearing for the forst 1/2 of the track in alot better position.
Not sure why you're even shifting it that low unless you have a really small cam in it, but if that was the case, it probably wouldn't have made 550 hp either...
Who built the motor, what's in it for a cam, who tuned it and why did they only pull it to 6200 rpm? Now you're starting to make me wonder what's going on here... if you went 106 @ 130 and were shifting this at 6200.. there might be 2 tenth's in the car just shifting it at 7000....
Post up somemore info on the motor, cam, heads, intake, etc.... something's telling me that you aren't even touching the potential of the car.... I still stand by the 4.30's being a help. Either that or a GTO 1, 2, 3 gearset in your trans... either way would get the gearing for the forst 1/2 of the track in alot better position.
03-16-2011, 12:50 PM
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with a built motor you should be able to spin that to 7200 to 7500 with NO problems.....
Not sure why you're even shifting it that low unless you have a really small cam in it, but if that was the case, it probably wouldn't have made 550 hp either...
Who built the motor, what's in it for a cam, who tuned it and why did they only pull it to 6200 rpm? Now you're starting to make me wonder what's going on here... if you went 106 @ 130 and were shifting this at 6200.. there might be 2 tenth's in the car just shifting it at 7000....
Post up somemore info on the motor, cam, heads, intake, etc.... something's telling me that you aren't even touching the potential of the car.... I still stand by the 4.30's being a help. Either that or a GTO 1, 2, 3 gearset in your trans... either way would get the gearing for the forst 1/2 of the track in alot better position.
Not sure why you're even shifting it that low unless you have a really small cam in it, but if that was the case, it probably wouldn't have made 550 hp either...
Who built the motor, what's in it for a cam, who tuned it and why did they only pull it to 6200 rpm? Now you're starting to make me wonder what's going on here... if you went 106 @ 130 and were shifting this at 6200.. there might be 2 tenth's in the car just shifting it at 7000....
Post up somemore info on the motor, cam, heads, intake, etc.... something's telling me that you aren't even touching the potential of the car.... I still stand by the 4.30's being a help. Either that or a GTO 1, 2, 3 gearset in your trans... either way would get the gearing for the forst 1/2 of the track in alot better position.
Last edited by z28kidd; 03-16-2011 at 02:02 PM.
03-16-2011, 02:04 PM
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here are some videos i have of the car when i ran it last saturday:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4KZavuzb9E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNNUx...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oErC...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4KZavuzb9E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNNUx...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oErC...eature=related
03-17-2011, 08:49 AM
#15
I'd put the car on a dyno, just to see what it's doing, it went together a good while ago. If you are going to change the exhasut it would be worth it to make sure it's still happy after the change as well.
The car's transferring absolutely no weight in that video, not sure where you have the rear shocks on it, but I'd guess they are too stiff, ride height in the front and back looks too high as wel. Front should be at 26 inches tops measuring the top of the wheel well thru the center of the wheel from the ground, rear should be about 26.5 to 27, if it's higher then that lower that as well.
Cam is too small, if you get around to putting something bigger in it the car will pick up a bunch too, that cam is probably a decent 346 cam, anything over 400 ci with decent heads on it that's seeing alot of track time, I'd be looking in the high 240's, no reason not to. The cam that's in there, if it's making peak power that low, is no doubt too small... should be making power until at least 7200. Put a bigger stick in it.. and if you can, I'd put a single plane intake on it too. my old 402 would have picked up probably 30 hp with a super victor intake with a top mounted TB compared to a fast... fast intake isn't good for much more then about 530 rwhp, after that it's a choking point... if the dyno sheet gets really flat at about 58000 rpm and just holds the same hp level all the way up into the 7000 rpm range, that's the intake choking it...
A few changes there will be alot to gain with that car I'm sure. Don knows his stuff but it went together 4 years ago, alot has changed since then.
The car's transferring absolutely no weight in that video, not sure where you have the rear shocks on it, but I'd guess they are too stiff, ride height in the front and back looks too high as wel. Front should be at 26 inches tops measuring the top of the wheel well thru the center of the wheel from the ground, rear should be about 26.5 to 27, if it's higher then that lower that as well.
Cam is too small, if you get around to putting something bigger in it the car will pick up a bunch too, that cam is probably a decent 346 cam, anything over 400 ci with decent heads on it that's seeing alot of track time, I'd be looking in the high 240's, no reason not to. The cam that's in there, if it's making peak power that low, is no doubt too small... should be making power until at least 7200. Put a bigger stick in it.. and if you can, I'd put a single plane intake on it too. my old 402 would have picked up probably 30 hp with a super victor intake with a top mounted TB compared to a fast... fast intake isn't good for much more then about 530 rwhp, after that it's a choking point... if the dyno sheet gets really flat at about 58000 rpm and just holds the same hp level all the way up into the 7000 rpm range, that's the intake choking it...
A few changes there will be alot to gain with that car I'm sure. Don knows his stuff but it went together 4 years ago, alot has changed since then.
03-17-2011, 06:56 PM
#16
Besides all the great info from JL, I second the scatter sheild and bell housing mines a quick time and looks to pretty damn good quality I order from RPM. . I launch at 6k+ and have less the 400 hp to the wheels and know **** can happen. I also would rev that thing more, I rev my 346 6500+.
03-18-2011, 09:20 AM
#17
If that is bad pewter's old car, it already has a mcloud bellhousing on it. I might be wrong on that, but I remember him saying how much of a bitch it was to get in there... I'd just look under the car you may already be all set with that.
Definitely not spinning it high enough, and if it doesn't make any more power past 6200, you need to make a cam and intake change.
Definitely not spinning it high enough, and if it doesn't make any more power past 6200, you need to make a cam and intake change.
03-21-2011, 07:38 AM
#19
It's probably the suspension setup on the car... it's transferring absolutely no weight at all..... I wouldn't blame the tires yet... unless they're been sitting around for 5 or 6 years or something like that.
Being that I've tried every damn brand of tire at one point or another... and have never had a night and day difference with any one compared to another I highly doubt that it's the tires themselves.
OP give us a full rundown of the complete suspension parts list on the car... something is either missing, or isn't setup right.
Being that I've tried every damn brand of tire at one point or another... and have never had a night and day difference with any one compared to another I highly doubt that it's the tires themselves.
OP give us a full rundown of the complete suspension parts list on the car... something is either missing, or isn't setup right.
03-21-2011, 01:00 PM
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It's probably the suspension setup on the car... it's transferring absolutely no weight at all..... I wouldn't blame the tires yet... unless they're been sitting around for 5 or 6 years or something like that.
Being that I've tried every damn brand of tire at one point or another... and have never had a night and day difference with any one compared to another I highly doubt that it's the tires themselves.
OP give us a full rundown of the complete suspension parts list on the car... something is either missing, or isn't setup right.
Being that I've tried every damn brand of tire at one point or another... and have never had a night and day difference with any one compared to another I highly doubt that it's the tires themselves.
OP give us a full rundown of the complete suspension parts list on the car... something is either missing, or isn't setup right.
-QA1s all around ( but are curently blown and sent out to get rebuilt so im running cheap autozone shocks all around to get by)
-Spohn adjustable panhard bar
-adjustable LCAS
-UMI adjustable torque arm
-Spohn pro series anti-roll bar
-moser 9" with detroit tru trac locker
-stock springs
-whoel tubular rear suspension all adjustable basically, im sure im forgetting other stuff
I'd also like to mention that i am getting alot of wheel hop on the nitto 555rs in the rear,but they are also bald and worn out, but when the car spins it should stay perfectly straight, its kicking out alot