Tire pressure for stiff wall slicks?
03-18-2011, 08:48 PM
#21
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Careful with the hi-tack, I just watched someone mushroom a rom trying to get the tire off and it was glued on with that hy-tack ****...
I would start with the tires at 12psi before the burnout. What does your ar weigh? if it's heavier, then you may be able to get away with 13 before the burnout, car weight plays a role here, as does track prep, suspension etc. 12 to 13, I would guess would be a good starting point.
Mark the tire with a chalk pencil where the valve stem is, if you see it movign more then an inch per pass... I'd screw the tires to the rim. Or, have the wheels converted to dbl beadlocks if the wallet can affort it. Problem with screws, is they tend to cause tires to leak air, not all the time, but it happend... dbl beadlocks don't leak at all,a dn work the sidewall's moer evenly, fwiw.
As for your nitrous, I would immediately get rid of any progression at all with a slick. You should be able to pour the coals right to it at the hit with a slick, unless you're hitting it with 400 or something.. but I don't think you are doing that with a 4l60, and certainly woundn't only be running in the 10.5 range either.
Good luck, post back how it works out!
I would start with the tires at 12psi before the burnout. What does your ar weigh? if it's heavier, then you may be able to get away with 13 before the burnout, car weight plays a role here, as does track prep, suspension etc. 12 to 13, I would guess would be a good starting point.
Mark the tire with a chalk pencil where the valve stem is, if you see it movign more then an inch per pass... I'd screw the tires to the rim. Or, have the wheels converted to dbl beadlocks if the wallet can affort it. Problem with screws, is they tend to cause tires to leak air, not all the time, but it happend... dbl beadlocks don't leak at all,a dn work the sidewall's moer evenly, fwiw.
As for your nitrous, I would immediately get rid of any progression at all with a slick. You should be able to pour the coals right to it at the hit with a slick, unless you're hitting it with 400 or something.. but I don't think you are doing that with a 4l60, and certainly woundn't only be running in the 10.5 range either.
Good luck, post back how it works out!
I've heard mickey thompson slicks loose some air, never had them personally though. I dont have a trans brake, just a 3600 vigilante stall.
03-18-2011, 11:36 PM
#22
One thing you can do to stop, or at least help the air leak issue is to take a rag, coat it with dish soap, and put a thin film on the inside of the tire, this will help prevent any leaks.. put it on and let it dry before mounting. Does wonders.
13 psi yes.
full nitrous at the hit yes
Rotating every few runs will help the sidewalls out, and make sure the tires are wearing even yes. It can only help tire life
As for the screws, summit sells a template... that will work. Just get a spring loaded punch to set a dimple before drilling if you have to, and of course, drill with the tires NOT mounted on the rim...
13 psi yes.
full nitrous at the hit yes
Rotating every few runs will help the sidewalls out, and make sure the tires are wearing even yes. It can only help tire life
As for the screws, summit sells a template... that will work. Just get a spring loaded punch to set a dimple before drilling if you have to, and of course, drill with the tires NOT mounted on the rim...
I'm planning on 12 right now, then go up/down from there.
03-19-2011, 09:28 PM
#25
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Yeah I will def let you guys know how it turns out. One more question though, do I have to do long burn outs with these slicks? I know M/T advertise short burnouts but I cant find anything about the Hoosiers. I've heard that you should do one good, long burn out for the first one, then shorter burnouts after that, but not sure how true that is. I'm going to the track tomorrow.
03-20-2011, 01:32 AM
#26
I did a long burnout after my fail of a burnout my first attempt. Tires dragged the motor down bad the first time made me look like a idiot lol. But afterwords Just popped that clutch and let them eat for a few seconds until I seen some smoke and rode it out. Worked for me.
03-20-2011, 08:22 PM
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Well I got my new best time at the track today. I had better 60' times on my drag radials, but my wheel was spinning inside the slick. The first run I had the slicks at 13psi and took off my progression. The wheel spun about 2.5 inches. So I put them up to 15 psi and put the progression to 80% for .5sec and the wheel didnt spin in the tire, but I didnt get that great of traction(1.57 60'). On the last run I put the slicks down to 12.5psi and kept the progression. The wheels still spun inside the tire, but only about 1 inch, then the tires spun a little more on the track. I'm not to crazy about putting screws in my wheels if there is some other alternative, but I will if I have to. I'm not sure if the wheels spinning in the tires is the main problem or if its something in my suspension. I was really expecting a lower 60' but I could not keep the slicks from spinning. Maybe I need to adjust my comp engineering rear shocks from 60/40 to 50/50? Anyways here is my numbers and vid.
1.49 60'
6.65@103 1/8
10.47@128 1/4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07J8TBmDBk0
1.49 60'
6.65@103 1/8
10.47@128 1/4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07J8TBmDBk0
03-21-2011, 07:48 AM
#29
You have a very enthusiastic announcer there 
Where are the suspension settings at on the car? Next time you run it get a video from the back of the car if possible.... that will tell move. Back looking down the drivers side, from the starting line.
If the tires are only moving an inch.. I wouldn't worry about that too much, just rotate them every 3 or 4 passes that's all.
To me, from the sata you have, if the tire moved the most at 13 psi, that's what is getting the tire to hook the best on the track.. I'd leave them around there. THe progression, I'd still try to get as much of that out as you can, maybe try 90% for .5, or 80% or .2 or something, just enough to stop it from spinning. Honestly, I used to have a 65 nos jet tuneup on my 402 and I let it hit right at the release of the transbrake, no delay, no progression nothing the whole thing at the hit... tires were screwed though, they moved on motor an inch or more and I was running on motor about where you are now... so without the screws the tires probably would have spun 1/2 way around the rims LOL.
Where are the suspension settings at on the car? Next time you run it get a video from the back of the car if possible.... that will tell move. Back looking down the drivers side, from the starting line.
If the tires are only moving an inch.. I wouldn't worry about that too much, just rotate them every 3 or 4 passes that's all.
To me, from the sata you have, if the tire moved the most at 13 psi, that's what is getting the tire to hook the best on the track.. I'd leave them around there. THe progression, I'd still try to get as much of that out as you can, maybe try 90% for .5, or 80% or .2 or something, just enough to stop it from spinning. Honestly, I used to have a 65 nos jet tuneup on my 402 and I let it hit right at the release of the transbrake, no delay, no progression nothing the whole thing at the hit... tires were screwed though, they moved on motor an inch or more and I was running on motor about where you are now... so without the screws the tires probably would have spun 1/2 way around the rims LOL.
03-21-2011, 05:27 PM
#30
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You have a very enthusiastic announcer there
Where are the suspension settings at on the car? Next time you run it get a video from the back of the car if possible.... that will tell move. Back looking down the drivers side, from the starting line.
If the tires are only moving an inch.. I wouldn't worry about that too much, just rotate them every 3 or 4 passes that's all.
To me, from the sata you have, if the tire moved the most at 13 psi, that's what is getting the tire to hook the best on the track.. I'd leave them around there. THe progression, I'd still try to get as much of that out as you can, maybe try 90% for .5, or 80% or .2 or something, just enough to stop it from spinning. Honestly, I used to have a 65 nos jet tuneup on my 402 and I let it hit right at the release of the transbrake, no delay, no progression nothing the whole thing at the hit... tires were screwed though, they moved on motor an inch or more and I was running on motor about where you are now... so without the screws the tires probably would have spun 1/2 way around the rims LOL.
Where are the suspension settings at on the car? Next time you run it get a video from the back of the car if possible.... that will tell move. Back looking down the drivers side, from the starting line.
If the tires are only moving an inch.. I wouldn't worry about that too much, just rotate them every 3 or 4 passes that's all.
To me, from the sata you have, if the tire moved the most at 13 psi, that's what is getting the tire to hook the best on the track.. I'd leave them around there. THe progression, I'd still try to get as much of that out as you can, maybe try 90% for .5, or 80% or .2 or something, just enough to stop it from spinning. Honestly, I used to have a 65 nos jet tuneup on my 402 and I let it hit right at the release of the transbrake, no delay, no progression nothing the whole thing at the hit... tires were screwed though, they moved on motor an inch or more and I was running on motor about where you are now... so without the screws the tires probably would have spun 1/2 way around the rims LOL.
03-22-2011, 08:51 AM
#31
both sides of the wheels...
Radials, if they work according to the guys that run them will go faster so I am told.. I don't entirely believe that 100%, but that's what I'm told... IMO the jury is still out on it.
I agree, 100% out of the gate will be fastest once you get it figured out.
Try lowering the front of the car 1/2 an inch... see if that helps. I think you'd be well served by putting a better set of rear shocks on the car.... regardless of what tire you run on it.
Radials, if they work according to the guys that run them will go faster so I am told.. I don't entirely believe that 100%, but that's what I'm told... IMO the jury is still out on it.
I agree, 100% out of the gate will be fastest once you get it figured out.
Try lowering the front of the car 1/2 an inch... see if that helps. I think you'd be well served by putting a better set of rear shocks on the car.... regardless of what tire you run on it.
03-22-2011, 05:22 PM
#32
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Well I will probably go ahead and screw them down and make a few more tweaks here and there. I will let you guys know how it turns out next time I go to the track. Thanks for the help!!!
