Tire pressure for stiff wall slicks?
03-17-2011, 07:30 PM
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Tire pressure for stiff wall slicks? I just bought a new set of 28x10.5 hoosier stiff side wall slicks in hopes to be more consistent and to be able to set my progression percentage a lot higher for my nitrous, or have no progression at all. I have never been on a slick before, just drag radials. What is the normal tire pressure people are running on slicks or a good starting point?
03-17-2011, 07:49 PM
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Do you get any tire spin with them at 16? I dont have any tire screws on mine and not to interested in putting them on. I dont think I make enough power to need them though.
03-17-2011, 08:59 PM
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Yeah I can see how a 6k launch with an m6 would do that. But I have an auto with a 3600 stall. Hopefully I wont need the wheel screws cause I would like to put on some drag radials back on them later on.
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said the same thing I must of been seconds faster.
03-17-2011, 09:50 PM
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03-18-2011, 09:29 AM
#16
Careful with the hi-tack, I just watched someone mushroom a rom trying to get the tire off and it was glued on with that hy-tack ****...
I would start with the tires at 12psi before the burnout. What does your ar weigh? if it's heavier, then you may be able to get away with 13 before the burnout, car weight plays a role here, as does track prep, suspension etc. 12 to 13, I would guess would be a good starting point.
Mark the tire with a chalk pencil where the valve stem is, if you see it movign more then an inch per pass... I'd screw the tires to the rim. Or, have the wheels converted to dbl beadlocks if the wallet can affort it. Problem with screws, is they tend to cause tires to leak air, not all the time, but it happend... dbl beadlocks don't leak at all,a dn work the sidewall's moer evenly, fwiw.
As for your nitrous, I would immediately get rid of any progression at all with a slick. You should be able to pour the coals right to it at the hit with a slick, unless you're hitting it with 400 or something.. but I don't think you are doing that with a 4l60, and certainly woundn't only be running in the 10.5 range either.
Good luck, post back how it works out!
I would start with the tires at 12psi before the burnout. What does your ar weigh? if it's heavier, then you may be able to get away with 13 before the burnout, car weight plays a role here, as does track prep, suspension etc. 12 to 13, I would guess would be a good starting point.
Mark the tire with a chalk pencil where the valve stem is, if you see it movign more then an inch per pass... I'd screw the tires to the rim. Or, have the wheels converted to dbl beadlocks if the wallet can affort it. Problem with screws, is they tend to cause tires to leak air, not all the time, but it happend... dbl beadlocks don't leak at all,a dn work the sidewall's moer evenly, fwiw.
As for your nitrous, I would immediately get rid of any progression at all with a slick. You should be able to pour the coals right to it at the hit with a slick, unless you're hitting it with 400 or something.. but I don't think you are doing that with a 4l60, and certainly woundn't only be running in the 10.5 range either.
Good luck, post back how it works out!
03-18-2011, 09:53 AM
#17
Granted, this is on drag radials, but my tires move all the time on the rim, usually only an inch or two, but have moved as much as 10" when just installed the day before (don't recommend this!). Never lost any air pressure (knocks on wood!)
Has anyone actually lost air with the tire moving on the rim?
Al
Has anyone actually lost air with the tire moving on the rim?
Al
03-18-2011, 10:08 AM
#18
I've never had that happen... but if I see the tire move more then an inch.. I'm screwing them, or dbl beadlocking the rims...
The issue, is that the tire could be moving one bead and not the other actually twisting the tire, and that's creating a very unsafe condition.
I also rotate my rear tires every 2 to 4 runs... can't do that with radials, but with slicks it's something I always did... generally if they're slipping they're not making full revolutions on the rim that way.
Couple people I know have hit the bead of the rim with some 60 grit sandpaper and had luck stopping the tires from slipping.. but that's one of those things that it's gonna be hit or miss.
If you had tires slip that much, either they used way too much soap when mounting them, or the water didn't dry completely, etc. Either way that would have been enough for me to screw them... 8 screws per side too (32 total).. I've seen people do 5, and the tires always have a harder wrinkle mark where the screws are.. more the better, since that's what controls how the sidewall is worked.
The issue, is that the tire could be moving one bead and not the other actually twisting the tire, and that's creating a very unsafe condition.
I also rotate my rear tires every 2 to 4 runs... can't do that with radials, but with slicks it's something I always did... generally if they're slipping they're not making full revolutions on the rim that way.
Couple people I know have hit the bead of the rim with some 60 grit sandpaper and had luck stopping the tires from slipping.. but that's one of those things that it's gonna be hit or miss.
If you had tires slip that much, either they used way too much soap when mounting them, or the water didn't dry completely, etc. Either way that would have been enough for me to screw them... 8 screws per side too (32 total).. I've seen people do 5, and the tires always have a harder wrinkle mark where the screws are.. more the better, since that's what controls how the sidewall is worked.
