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Just finished Battery Relocation. Now just clicks.....

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Old 04-20-2011, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 96LT1355Z28
Great find and fix! I've had this problem for years and just accepted it as a part of modifying the car. I always figured there was something causing it cause so many other cars relocate the battery and didn't have this issue. I'm having trouble finding what wires your de-pining and wiring in a new relay into. I don't see any relay labeled starter in my fuse/ relay box in the engine compartment. There are 5 relays total and they are labeled fan #1, #2, #3, ABS, and air pump. Everything else in there is fuses. Mines a 96 LT1 car but I wouldn't think the wiring would be that different, especially with the same symptoms.
Well on the LS1 cars those relays are in a different "box" than the starter one. Follow smaller (10ga) wire on the starter, it should lead to a relay sooner or later I have not worked much on a LT1 car, so I cant give you any better guidance than that.

Sean
Old 04-24-2011, 11:59 AM
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FIXED!!!! Thanks Chris and Sean!!!!!!!!!!!!!

STICKEY MATERIAL!!!!!
Old 04-24-2011, 02:55 PM
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Glad i could help!
Old 04-24-2011, 03:02 PM
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I looked up a wiring diagram for the lt1 car. It looks like the starter solenoid is activated from the theft detterent relay.




I would look into bypassing that relay and see what happens.


Good luck. And let us know how it goes.

Thanks, Chris


Originally Posted by 96LT1355Z28
Great find and fix! I've had this problem for years and just accepted it as a part of modifying the car. I always figured there was something causing it cause so many other cars relocate the battery and didn't have this issue. I'm having trouble finding what wires your de-pining and wiring in a new relay into. I don't see any relay labeled starter in my fuse/ relay box in the engine compartment. There are 5 relays total and they are labeled fan #1, #2, #3, ABS, and air pump. Everything else in there is fuses. Mines a 96 LT1 car but I wouldn't think the wiring would be that different, especially with the same symptoms.
Old 04-28-2011, 02:29 AM
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How much current draw does the solenoid pull anyway. In my mind it seems like it wouldn't be much or am I wrong?
Old 04-28-2011, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Blown06
How much current draw does the solenoid pull anyway. In my mind it seems like it wouldn't be much or am I wrong?
I couldn't tell you (we never checked), but it is a 10ga wire from the factory. That is a pretty big wire for the factory to use for anything. It has been a long time, but I think they use 10ga to feed the fuse panels on the driver side if memory serves. The biggest problem lies in the actual relay. The pins that the wire connect to are very small, something like 1/16" wide. On the relay we pulled from our car the high voltage pins were very corroded, and so were the contacts inside. I showed them to an electrical engineer at my work (he was the one who opened it to see the contacts) and he said that he wouldn't be surprised if it was slightly undersized for the task when new. He also said that a brand new one would work OK for a while, but changing to a larger one is the right way to fix it. When we had the car on the dyno last weekend (starting it a lot) we didn't have one single problem.

Sean
Old 04-28-2011, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MUSTANGBRKR02
Sounds like bad ground connection.
Old 08-09-2011, 01:52 PM
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bringing this back from the dead because i need a little more information on how to do the relay bypass here. is it possible to just upgrade the relay to one w/ high amp? if not, i need to jump two of the wires on the relay to bypass it?

if someone could help out with some picture for a electrical novice that would be great. this is a great thread.
Old 09-06-2011, 12:00 PM
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What if your starter doesn't even click? I turn the key on and everything lights up just fine but when I try to turn it over nothing happens. Has had a little trouble starting since I moved the battery but now nothing happens at all. Haven't checked any wiring or the battery yet but there aren't any fuses blown that I've seen.
Old 09-09-2011, 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Sideways240sx
I looked up a wiring diagram for the lt1 car. It looks like the starter solenoid is activated from the theft detterent relay.


I would look into bypassing that relay and see what happens.


Good luck. And let us know how it goes.

Thanks, Chris

On the LT1 the ground for the TDR comes from the BCM. If you cut the yellow/black wire comming out of the TDR and ground it, it bypasses the BCM. This fixed my clicking and the car starts just like it did with the battery up front. My BCM had already had issues with the windows not working and the radio shutting off so that lead me to believe the ground provided by the BCM wasn't sufficent. This only applies to LT1 cars.
Old 09-09-2011, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam86
What if your starter doesn't even click? I turn the key on and everything lights up just fine but when I try to turn it over nothing happens. Has had a little trouble starting since I moved the battery but now nothing happens at all. Haven't checked any wiring or the battery yet but there aren't any fuses blown that I've seen.
Is your security light illuminated when the car will not crank? If you have nothing happening at all this sounds like the likely cause. The bypass/fix for this is the same as what 96LT1355Z28 posted but the wire color is different. You just need to cut the starter relay ground wire that goes to the BCM and ground it directly.
Old 09-11-2011, 01:23 PM
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Thanks! So basically I bypass the relay? This whole fix is a little confusing to me.
Old 09-11-2011, 03:07 PM
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adam- yes and no. you bypass the STOCK relay for the starter, and replace it with a beefier version from an autoparts store.

edit: here--- https://ls1tech.com/forums/15269408-post57.html this thread overall has better info for this

and this http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...h&fromType=oem

Last edited by ledesordre; 09-11-2011 at 03:12 PM.
Old 09-11-2011, 06:56 PM
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You are my hero. Thank you!!!
Old 09-12-2011, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam86
You are my hero. Thank you!!!
NP. this completely solved my problem that's been plaguing me for years! Clicking 15-20 times before starting up w/ battery in the rear. Now it either starts immediately or clicks 2-3 times. I had ran 2 awg wire to the front to rear for the battery as well as for grounds. I am slowly replacing all these grounds and power cables, the big 3, with 1/0 gauge.
Old 09-12-2011, 10:36 PM
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Will doing that with the relay take care of both the starter ground relay to the BCM and the small wire that Sideways240SX was talking about? Also, what are the specifics of that relay that make it work? The terminals look bigger but I'm not sure what else makes it special. My local Auto Zone doesn't carry it and I want to get it tomorrow. Any other relay I could look for at O'Reilly's or NAPA that would work? Not really sure what exactly I should be asking for when I ask for the relay.

Last edited by Adam86; 09-13-2011 at 01:02 AM.
Old 09-13-2011, 05:27 AM
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Just ask for a 5 pin relay.
Old 09-13-2011, 03:40 PM
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Alright, so I tried doing this and routed the wires exactly like this post says...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/15269408-post57.html

Now when i open the door the security light on the dash keeps flashing and the car will not turn over at all. I'm assuming when I cut the wires that the car thinks it's being stolen? When I touch the purple and red wires together the car turns over but I'm assuming it's not getting any fuel or spark so it won't start. And when I hook the wires into the relay I get nothing at all. Battery works fine but no clicking from the starter or anything.
Old 09-13-2011, 03:53 PM
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Bad relay?? Post the relay you bought and or pics. Probably a dumb question, but did you disconnect the battery while you did this mod?
Old 09-13-2011, 04:06 PM
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Oh don't be so quick to judge yourself because I completely effing forgot to disconnect the battery!!! Could anything have gone wrong there?


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