Just moved the battery to the back. The battery is brand new. Have had it on a trickle charger for almost a week now. Ok, here's the story. Bought the car and it had the factory V6. Swapped in the LQ9. Moved the battery to the back. Ran a 2ga wire to the front right where the factory battery went. Bought a distribution block. Cut the factory + cable and used the factory wires. Ran them to the starter, alternator, and the fuse box. I started it a week ago, but it would just click the first couple times I tried. Then it just started. I didn't think much about it then. I have the battery grounded about 16" to the seatbelt bolt in the back passenger side. Block has 2 grounds. One running from the passenger side block the frame rail, the other is running from the drivers side block to the drivers side frame rail. Anyway, I am getting good power at the battery, distribution block, and alternator. They all load tested good to. While cranking they all stay about 9.8-10v. It just clicks really fast when I try starting it. The guages also reset after I get done. I can get pictures if anyone needs them. I just need to get this figured out. Oh, starter and alternator are brand new.

 

check voltage at the battery and at the starter while cranking /trying to crank...also check the ground from the battery to the seat bolt is tight and clean...do you have a ground from the block to the frame ?? motor plate or rubber mounts ...start there ...hope it helps

 

Oh im interested, mine does this same crap when I put it back there.

 

Sounds like bad ground connection.

 

Like stated above, check all your connections. Did you clean all the paint off the seatbelt stud for your ground? Check for high resistance between your cable connections. Check your voltage at the battery while trying to start, and check at the starter while trying to start to see if you have a voltage drop. Maybe your Positive wire is to small.. although I'm pretty sure lots of guys have done the relocation with 2ga.

 

I checked voltage. 9.8-10 while cranking. Ground is good and tight. Also, it my original description, I have two ground straps coming off the block. One on each side of the motor going to the frame rail. Rubber mounts.

 

Mine did the same bs when I moved mine to the back. I had the block grounded to the frame up front the battery grounded all the way to the block just to make sure the grounds were good. Huge welding cable on the positive and negative side. I finally stopped being hard headed and tried the stock cables with a small battery up front like a buddy said and no more damn clickity click click click.

 

Did you check at the starter aswell?

 

Paint is completely cleaned off where the ground is mounted to the seatbelt bolt. Voltage is fine everywhere I have checked so far. I have not checked the voltage on the starter. I will be doing that tomorrow evening. I'm not sure how to check for high resistance between cable connections. I have a friend that I helped do the same exact setup. And of course everything works just fine in his car. SAME EXACT SETUP. I just don't understand.

 

I'll let everyone know how the starter voltage checks out. I will also be moving the battery up front to see what that does. I may just call it quits and keep it up there!!!! J/K. I hope to get it figured out tomorrow. I really need this thing running!!!

 

We have been fighting this same problem for a few weeks now. In fact I posted a question about it in a different section a few days ago, and haven't gotten a response yet. Here is what I had posted.

I'm not trying to hijack, just add our experience to try and get this resolved.


Sean

 

Both of you need to learn how to do a voltage drop test,this will show you exactly where the problem lies.

 

Why don't you explain how to do it?

 

If your talking about checking resistance on all the wires I've done that. Only one I didn't check was the starter. As stated above, I am goin to do it tonight. I'm sure that is the problem. Try reading before posting.

 

Well on our car, there is nothing to drop the voltage. The only things on are the ECU, the fuel pumps, and the starter. We dont have a street car.

Sean

 

There needs to be a wire from the alternator to the switch or battery dirrectly. Try searching some wiring diagrams on here and you'll find it.

 

If you moved the battery.. and it's not working.... the solution is simple: It's not wired right.


Look @ what connects to the battery, trace the physcial wires to it when it's up front, and do the same in the back...

If something isn't hooked up, that's the problem. ALT needs to go strait to the battery, and one wire off the battery thru a kill switch up to the power block in the front of the car. It's very simple really.

Clicking... means bad connections..... it's getting enough power to do something, but not start... it's a bad connection. Period.

 

I'll check it all tonight. Thanks guys. Every little bit of help sure goes a long ways. I'll try and keep everyone updated.

 

Come on guys, you dont think we wired it right?! Seriously? We have wired entire cars, Chris is an electrician by trade, I work with electronics all day. The car is wired same as it was last year. All of the under hood wires that went to the battery are now on a firewall post. Last year we had a wire from each terminal of the battery ran to the same post. Now the battery is in the back with wire run from the battery to the same post. AKA it is exactly the same as last year. The alternator is wired to the battery side of the switch just like it needs to be. It is pretty impossible that there is a bad connection on the pass through terminal, but honestly the only thing we haven't tried yet to going straight from the battery to the starter.

Sean

 

FWIW we go from switch to back of the starter and then out from there. Never had a problem.